A Dreamy Italian Stay At Borgo Egnazia

Charlotte Flach checks into one of Puglia’s prettiest hotels: Borgo Egnazia.

Review: Borgo Egnazia, Puglia

A lone bicycle leans up against the whitewashed wall of a traditional Italian villa. A pale shaft of sunlight plays across its brown leather handlebars and wicker basket, the rest cloaked in the receding morning shade. A spray of purple flowers burst forth from nearby bushes, which snake over walls and around corners, framing the scene with a striking splash of colour.

But this isn’t a still from Ladri di biciclette, the 1948 Italian film masterpiece which revolves around the eponymous bicycle. This mise en scène is an organic moment in time; the bicycle propped casually against a wall, without a second thought for the dramatic imagery that has been created by chance.

I’m at Borgo Egnazia, Puglia’s – and likely Italy’s – most enchanting – hotel. The genius behind the spellbinding design is Pino Brescia, who was tasked by Owner, Aldo Melpignano, to take inspiration from the style of a Puglian town (or borgo), crafting authentically time-worn buildings, vast town squares, and secretive cobbled alleys.

After all, Borgo Egnazia’s tagline is ‘Nowhere Else’, a sentiment echoed in its captivating narrative of a time and place that seems pulled from collective memories.

STAY

The calm of the hotel’s interiors is almost reverent. A haunting combination of soft focus lighting, labyrinthine architecture, and domed ceilings is reminiscent of a cathedral. This is a place where wellness is next to godliness.

Decorative elements feel as if they have stood the test of time and been left behind by previous generations. Ladders lean against walls as though ready to be scaled; clusters of white candles fit for Catholic altars light the corridors; and a tree centerpiece in the lobby, with leaves constructed from pages taken from tomes in every language, evoke the feeling something magical is always on the brink of happening.

Away from the main building, the guest rooms are located in casettas scattered across the borgo. Each casetta is segmented into a ground floor apartment or upper floor accommodation, the former with its own private, walled courtyard, and the latter with a roof terrace.

Inside the rooms the cream, white and pale beige tones offer a purity which feels like a callback to Italy’s strong religious roots. Ancient books and black and white photographs hang in frames on the walls, light boxes emit a warm glow, and alternating stone nooks and protrusions in the walls add to the clean, simple design- but always with a feeling of luxury present.

EAT

Food is taken extremely seriously across Italy, and Puglia is no exception. Traditionally one of the poorest regions, the cost of meat meant it was largely off the menu in times past, and to this day it retains its focus on dishes made mostly with vegetables.

Luckily the hotel has its own nonna on hand to preserve Puglia’s culinary traditions. Guests have the option to book a dinner cooked from scratch by her, with three courses of local fare prepped with as much love as if she’s cooking for her own family. She lets us come into her kitchen to see the work in progress and emphatically discusses the ingredients and cooking methods with us.

Focaccia barese hot from the oven, with fat, juicy tomatoes, joins intensely flavourful parmigiano, and the distinctively shaped orecchiette pasta cooked the traditional way with broccoli. For afters, there is a delicious, crumbly homemade dessert, dusted with sugar and almonds and filled with ricotta cheese.

From home cooked meals to Michelin-star dining, in-house restaurant Due Camini is a completely different experience, but no less magical. Again, the emphasis is on the region’s seasonal produce, with a fully plant-based menu, but pivoting from hearty traditional fare to a fine-dining extravaganza.

Anyone who thinks vegetables are dull will be firmly put back in their place by the culinary tour-de-force that awaits. My menu, which is delightfully vague, lists porcino, pepper cabbage, and pumpkin with seaweeds. What emerges from the kitchen is course after course of beautifully designed dishes, simple in concept yet rich in flavour and artistry.

Hor d’oeuvres served imaginatively on a tree branch, an incredibly tender aubergine which melts in the mouth, and a piece of perfectly proportioned cabbage covered in a rich and creamy sauce are just some of the cuisine that leaves a lasting impression on me – and my tongue.

DO

A dedication to being well is present throughout the borgo. From the gentle lap of the sparkling water at the poolsides where you can relax supine as attentive waiters bring ice cold drinks, to the hush of the Vair spa, where you can hear a pin drop.

Steam rooms, saunas and an indoor pool ideal for swimming leisurely laps, are complemented by softly lit treatment rooms, with everything from aromatherapy to hydrotherapy to reflexology treatments. I emerge from my facial, my skin dewy and supple, feeling refreshed after drifting into a power nap on the table.

In contrast, the main bar area is lively and has a constant hum of relaxed chatter and clinking of cocktail glasses. It’s the ideal place to toast with friends or chat conspiratorially with a lover after an arduous day of relaxation.

Aside from fine food and spa time, guests can take part in making crafts specific to the region, learning about its history and significance from a guide dedicated to preserving this knowledge.

The hotel has its own beach club too, reachable by a short golf cart transfer. Sun loungers are dotted around the edge of a shallow cliff, with steps down into the ocean for bathing in the small inlets between the rocks. Its stellar restaurant serves up fresh oysters, seafood spaghetti and all manner of delicious catches from the sea.

Also nearby is the town of Polignano a Mare, an absolute must to see an example of what Italy does best. Low archways lead into arrow alleyways and silent courtyards with overhanging balconies adorned with flowers, colourful pots and trailing vines.

On the edges of the town, buildings crowd along the cliff edge, with walkways and terraces that offer vistas across the ocean. Small shops and street vendors sell crafts, gelato and Italian coffee. A small inlet with a beach surrounded by towering rocks is an iconic natural attraction that many will recognise from photos. Words scrawled on a wooden door sum it up best, reading: ‘This place was created before paradise.’

The Final Word

With a focus on preserving local traditions and Puglian culture, Borgo Egnazia is so much more than just another luxury hotel. There is sunbathing and spa time aplenty here, but it is the pride of everyone who works here, in this little enclave of cultural preservation they have created, that truly makes the hotel like nowhere else.

Book it: The Fìrmete retreat starts from €2,729 per person. Price includes accommodation for 4 nights, 4 personalised food and wine experiences, aligned with the programme, including one dinner of choice at one of Borgo Egnazia’s restaurants, In-room breakfast with a dedicated menu and a breakfast experience of choice at Borgo Egnazia, access to the resort’s spa facilities, and a comprehensive wellness programme.

A double room in La Corte at Borgo Egnazia starts from €440 per night on a bed and breakfast basis. Family Casettas in the Borgo (sleeping up to two adults and two children) start from €790 per night. borgoegnazia.com