Review: Riad Brummell, Marrakesh

11 hours ago

A tranquil escape in the heart of Marrakesh

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From the aromatic spices of the Medina to the vibrant chaos of Jemaa el-Fna, Marrakesh offers one of the liveliest city experiences in the world. Retreat, says Tessa Dunthorne, to Riad Brummell, a serene boutique hotel with supremely attractive design.

Review: Riad Brummell

Marrakesh, Morocco’s vibrant capital, can be an overwhelming city. From the moment you arrive at Menara Airport, it’s straight into a seatbelt-free taxi, swinging between lanes at breathtaking speeds, before being dropped at the entrance to the Medina – a covered labyrinth of streets and market stalls. The Medina, the old city, offers no reprieve for the senses. Down the souks, the scent of fuel hangs heavy in the air as mopeds whizz by. Donkeys tirelessly cart goods from end-to-end, cats curl underfoot, and you’re constantly bustling against a sea of people.

So, turning off one of the main arteries leading to the central square, Jemaa el-Fna, it’s almost startling to arrive at Riad Brummell’s door. The city’s cacophony begins to ebb. Then, as you step through a vast wooden door, the noise vanishes completely. Your shoulders instantly relax.

Riad Brummell is an archetypal Marrakesh hotel. A ‘riad’ is a traditional family dwelling built around an encased garden (riad means garden) where a central fountain produces a steady trickle of water, acting as a soothing form of white noise. Riad Brummell is a particularly charming five-bedroom iteration of this genre, with its terracotta walls and climbing vines. The design here is clean yet candied; think pin-striped chairs and cowboy cactuses. Birds dip low into the courtyard, brushing a wing through the ground-floor water feature, then perch on open balconies a floor up, calling to visitors. It’s all very au-fait with nature, yet stylish and modern.

The riad spans four floors, with one to two bedrooms on each. Between the first and second floor, you’ll find an honesty station stocked with complimentary tea and coffee, plus caviar crisps and fancy Swiss chocolates. At the very top, a rooftop terrace boasts plush sun loungers, a small pool, and a sunny breakfast bar set within a conservatory. There’s also an open fireplace for cooler months. From the rooftop, the city’s sounds gently filter back in. Eating breakfast to the full-bodied sounds of the call to prayer is mesmerising, yet you remain wonderfully sheltered from the full city chaos.

The rooms are simple but pretty. Walls wear the same deep, sandy tones, featuring spacious double beds and comfortable chairs – perfect for a small reading nook. Simple Berber textiles adorn the floors and walls. Bathrooms are situated within the same room, separated by a delicate sheer curtain (do not fear: private toilets are available in the communal areas if your bladder has stage-fright). All rooms have walk-in showers, and some also feature freestanding brass tubs.

Be sure to book dinner here. Riad Brummell doesn’t open its dining to outside guests, and it would surely be overrun if it did. But with 24-hours notice, the in-house chef can prepare an enormous, bubbling feast for you on the rooftop. It’s traditional and deeply regional: three sweet Moroccan salads with fresh, warm bread, followed by tagine, and concluded with a fruit plate. Speaking from my own experience, it was the absolute best meal I had in Marrakesh. The walnut lamb has a delightful fired dryness, and the chicken tagine melts off the bone. The dessert is humble – just slices of orange with cinnamon – but it’s exactly the tonic to a sun-beaten day. This private dining experience comes in at roughly £20 per person – a complete steal.

In the morning, brunch is a treat. Moroccans adore this meal – it spans several courses and is accompanied by three different drinks. Riad Brummell’s take on breakfast is served on a tiered cake stand, laden with traditional pancakes, breads, jams, honey, pots of yogurt, and fruit, even before you add your made-to-order eggs. Orange juice is a staple of the Marrakechi diet, so enjoy a fresh squeeze alongside a water and traditional mint tea or coffee.

Riad Brummell is a true boutique in every sense: stylish, urban, and tiny. The staff often outnumber the guests – you’ll rarely run into other visitors – but that’s no complaint. The team is friendly, kind, and keen to converse, whether to recommend a tour or a nearby spa. Given its size, there’s no hammam on-site, but they have a vetted list of places you can enjoy a head-to-toe scrub. Plus, their map of local attractions rivals most commercial guidebooks. The Medina centre is just minutes away, making it easy to hit all the main touristic spots or depart for a wider, multi-day desert trip.

But that’s only if you’re tempted away. Which is hard to imagine – you’ll likely enjoy whiling away hours soaking up the abundant sunshine and heat from the beautiful rooftop, punctuated with refreshing dips in the pool.