How To Make A British Classic, Toad in the Hole

Nothing beats nostalgic British comfort food, especially when it gets chilly, and it’s hard to top a classic toad in the hole. Sausages tucked in a golden, pillowy soft risen batter with crispy edges, and served with lashings of gravy, it’s simple, familiar and oh-so satisfying.

The dish dates back to the early eighteenth century, when home cooks used batter to stretch small amounts of meat. Early recipes called for beef or mutton, with sausages becoming common later as they became cheaper. By Victorian times the dish appeared in cookbooks and was popular for being economical, hearty and easy to make. In Yorkshire, the batter resembled that of the county’s famous pudding, while elsewhere it was served with onion gravy and lots of greens. 

Today, it still remains a beloved classic, as Austin Yardley of Terry’s Café can attest. They call it ‘sausage toad,’ and we’re hoping it makes it back on their Tuesday lunch special. Of course, good sausages are key here, ideally from a local butcher, and make them Lincolnshire, and the batter should be mixed lightly and left to rest so it rises when it’s in the oven. The other trick is to heat the fat until it smokes before pouring in the batter, then leave the oven door shut until it’s risen and golden. Modern versions might add mustard, herbs or onions, but the spirit of the dish is unchanged. It comforts without frills and reminds us that simple things, done well are the best.

North Yorkshire butcher Tim Wilson, founder of London butcher the Ginger Pig, knows a thing or two about great British comfort food. His London butchery and farm shops are known for championing top-quality, traditionally reared meat, and his take on toad in the hole is no exception. ‘Toad-in-the-hole weather is just around the corner – and it’s the best thing in the world. I tend to go over the top with everything, and so my toad-in-the-hole is not for the faint-hearted. Controversially, I don’t use whole sausages. Instead, I take a chicken breast per person, open it out, stuff it generously with sausage meat and wrap it in streaky bacon to make a little parcel. These go into the oven for 20 minutes, then I pour over a Yorkshire pudding batter that has caramelised onions stirred through it. Bake until the Yorkshire pudding is nicely risen and everything is caramelised, and enjoy with lots of mashed potato, roast parsnips, a few sprouts and onion gravy.’

Here is a recipe to try from the Ginger Pig.

Recipe: Toad in the Hole

Ingredients

Serves 4

• 8 Lincolnshire sausages
• 140g plain flour
• 4 large eggs
• 200ml whole milk
• 100ml sparkling water
• 2 tbsp vegetable oil or beef dripping
• 1 tsp Dijon mustard
• Pinch of sea salt
• A few sprigs of thyme (optional)

Method

1. Heat the oven to 220°C (200°C fan). Pour the oil or dripping into a solid roasting tin and place it in the oven until smoking hot.
2. Add the sausages to the tin and roast for about 10 minutes until lightly golden.
3. In a bowl, whisk together the flour, eggs, mustard and salt. Slowly add the milk and sparkling water until smooth and airy, it should have the texture of single cream. Rest the batter for 10 minutes.
4. Take the tin out of the oven, keeping it hot. Pour the batter over the sausages, scatter the thyme on top, and return to the oven immediately. Bake for 25–30 minutes until puffed and golden brown.
5. Serve with onion gravy and buttery peas or seasonal greens, Waitrose has its No.1 Green Vegetable Medley which is convenient.

Recipe from the Ginger Pig