The Francis: The Bath Hotel Hailing A New Era In Wellness

‘Bath has been looking after stressed-out Londoners for 300 years,’ says doorman Alex, welcoming me to The Francis Hotel, bang opposite what must be one of the city’s prettiest green spaces, Queen Square. ‘That’s what we’re here for. It’s nice down here, isn’t it? More chilled.’

He’s not wrong. UNESCO-accredited as one of the Great Spa Towns of Europe, Bath has worn its healing hat for thousands of years, ever since those canny Romans first discovered the area’s natural, mineral-rich thermal springs – the only ones in Britain – and built the famous Roman Baths. The original hot thermae may have fallen into ruin by the 6th century, but Bath’s reputation as a wellness destination has endured, with health havens literally on tap from the Georgian era onwards. At the vast Thermae Bath Spa, complete with open-air rooftop pool, you can still soak in the same spring waters as the Celts and Romans.

Located in the heart of the city, the Francis has been greeting guests since 1884, when seven Georgian townhouses designed by celebrated architect John Wood the Elder were turned into a private hotel by local entrepreneur Emily Francis. Up until now, however, it has lacked its own wellness offering. 

April’s launch of the Francis Hotel Spa remedies that oversight. It follows a major £14 million refurbishment of the hotel’s interiors, including all 98 guestrooms and public spaces, unveiled last September. As one of the first to sample the sanctuary’s treatments, I can report that they deliver a contemporary wellbeing fix more than worthy of the area’s healing heritage.

‘It’s a five-star spa experience; it enhances people’s visit,’ says Sutton Hotel Collection’s cluster general manager, Shaun Bowles, who oversaw the four-star boutique hotel’s extensive revamp. Featuring three treatment rooms and a light-filled relaxation area, tucked at the back of the limestone-clad property, the Spa’s showpiece is a multi-sensory, thermal experience suite, the first of its kind in the region. I’ve been pampered and pummelled in spas across the UK and Europe, but I’ve never come across anything quite like it before. 

Here is how it works. Taking place in a hammam-style space, which you can book for 45-minute slots for two, this restorative adventure involves self-guided heat rituals with either purifying steam and cleansing rasul muds or playful bubbles. I start with an invigorating shower circuit, which includes hot and cold sprays, an aromatherapy mist and a bullet-like ceiling jet to loosen knotted shoulder muscles. The fun then begins as I enter the Klafs Espuro steam cabin, which, at the press of a button, quickly fills with large dollops of skin-nourishing foam, made from coconut sulphates and other natural ingredients. As CGM Bowles says: ‘It’s like having your own Ibiza foam party.’ A party for one, in my case. 

After rinsing off the bubbles and reclining briefly on a heated relaxation bench, I feel perfectly prepped for my next treatment, a results-driven collagen reset facial by German-founded QMS Medicosmetics. For one blissful hour, my lacklustre London face is treated to gentle cleansing, dual-action exfoliation, nutrient-rich serums and a personalised mask, all designed to boost oxygen flow, collagen production, hydration and cell turnover. My therapist Elise also adds some deft massage strokes to improve lymphatic drainage and help reduce my chronic under-eye puffiness. She suggests I give reflexology a try as it stimulates the body’s lymphatic system to drain excess fluid and increase circulation.

Bowles tells me that the spa team underwent an intensive three-month training programme, and judging by the expertise of my therapist, it shows. ‘Some of the facials are 90 minutes and they don’t take their hands off you,’ he adds.

The doctor-led QMS brand is complemented by the Spa’s other skincare partner, Devon-based Gaia, whose natural products are handmade in Britain using traditional methods. As part of Gaia’s Affinity Cancer Experience programme, Elise and her fellow therapists were given specialist training in oncology treatments. Armed with knowledge of medical side effects, fatigue and sensitivity concerns, they can work with clients who may have previously been contraindicated for massages and other therapies. ‘Not many spas offer this,’ she points out.

The wellness theme continues in my room, which comes equipped with a yoga mat to use with one of the TV’s guided video sessions, specially developed for the hotel by The Space Bath. Ranging from Snug and Cosy to Comfy and Generous in size, the rooms feature bespoke furniture, plush fabrics and beds fitted with Hypnos mattresses and Egyptian cotton sheets. Amenities include Gaia bathroom products, classic Roberts radios and Nespresso coffee machines. These are just some of the thoughtful touches that elevate this reimagined property, which has gone from being a tired and dated coach party favourite to a vibrant, stylish destination in less than two years.

‘Every aspect of the hotel has been transformed and reconfigured,’ says marketing and brand director Debbie Neate ‘The difference between this and the old building is night and day.’ The new interiors cleverly draw from a modern interpretation of classic Georgian colour palettes and craftsmanship, preserving heritage while embracing innovation. ‘We talked very much about the Georgian element, but we didn’t want it to be a museum,’ says Bowles, who worked with award-winning British interior designers 3DReid on the year-long project. 

The main lounge areas are light and spacious, and there is even a hidden snug available after 6pm for residents, filled with books from independent bookshop Mr B’s, board games and a tiny bar. The hotel’s walls are adorned with eclectic artwork curated by international art agency Artiq and range from original Picasso drawings to pieces by local artists. 

All this adds to the sense of stepping into someone’s rather smart and comfortable townhouse. The buzzy cocktail bar with its shimmering chandeliers and cosy lamps wouldn’t look out of place in Mayfair. As Bowles says: ‘The idea was to bring a bit of London to Bath – but not too much as we didn’t want to alienate locals. It’s timeless but premium casual.’

His ‘pride and joy’, though, is new British brasserie Emberwood, led by executive head chef David Hazell and specialising in open-fire cooking with a focus on local and seasonal produce. Designed for shared feasting, signature dishes include hearth-cooked Lower Westcombe farm cote de boeuf and whole monkfish tail accompanied by pork jus and parsley.

For added theatre, a mixologist will concoct cocktails tableside, including Solomon’s Spritz, a blend of Somerset cider brandy, apple liqueur Pomona, Vault champagne and Lillet Blanc English sparkling wine. There’s also a dessert trolley, which serves classic British puddings with a modern twist, such as miso custard tart with vanilla pod ice cream and chocolate mousse with cocoa nib brownie and raspberry and tarragon ice cream. Our lively group dinner in one of the brasserie’s booths, feels like an exceptional family meal – informal and friendly yet accompanied by impeccable service and faultless food.

The next morning, doorman Alex, dapper in his tweed-style waistcoat and matching flat cap designed by tailoring house Gresham Blake, is there to wave me off, calling out cheerily in his warm West Country burr: ‘If you’re feeling stressed in London, come down and see us again.’ 

I most certainly will.

BOOK

Rooms from £200 per night. francishotel.co