The George In Graveley Brings A Historic Coaching Inn Back To Life

Quaint little Graveley is a village just east of Hitchin. Though it serves primarily as a commuter hub, the reopening of beloved local pub The George (fka ‘and Dragon’) may just establish the spot as a pilgrimage for city folk, too. The pub sits on what was once the Great North Road, the old coaching route between London and the north, and parts of the building are thought to date back to the late 17th or early 18th century – and thus has a history as a stopping point that it hopes to revive. With new owners – The Herts Pub Company, also behind nearby The Cock in Hitchin – the space has been spruced up with fresh interiors and the appointment of a new exec chef, Joe Walker, who promises to refine the menu in the new gastropub setting.

In First Sitting, we take you into the early services at some of the UK’s most exciting restaurant happenings. Jenny Jefferies takes you inside the dining room at a refreshed The George.

Inside The George, Graveley

The Scene

An extensive refurbishment has excavated a 250-year-old country pub, and you can feel the layering of it – Georgian brickwork and sash windows on the outside, a much older structure still legible underneath. Larger Churchill sofas adorn the bar area, but even these are dwarfed by a floor-to-ceiling wine cabinet, displaying an extensive selection of European wines (more on that later). Across two dining rooms – one is a garden room with lovely outdoor views – the pub has even on our early sitting filled many of its tables. Diners enjoy much natural light thanks to big windows and later summer hours, and from these you’ll spy an expansive garden and patio, built around its own outdoor bar. Here, there’s a fire pit – and the promise of al fresco dining surrounded by the broader countryside views.

It’s of note that the pub is advertising life drawing classes, Pride events, live music and monthly wine dinners – indicating it will serve not just as a beacon for Londoners on weekend jaunts but also as a proper neighbourhood local. It’s dog-friendly too, which matters more than it sounds in a village pub trying to earn back its regulars.

The Drinks

The cocktail list feels well prepared for summer heatwaves. It’s traditional with a twist – think blueberry and basil mojitos, or mint and mango daiquiris – and there’s a good selection of no/lows that won’t have drivers feeling left out (a ‘nojito’ version of the blueberry and basil serve, for instance). The wines hail predominantly from France and England but also feature a ‘mindful’ heading, listing no/low ABV vino, too. The full wine list is described as carefully curated rather than simply stocked, and it shows in the range on that cabinet behind the bar.

The Food

Think local, think seasonal – just like any good gastropub. There’s Blythburgh pork hailing from Suffolk, and lamb, eggs, tomatoes and leaves from nearby Lannock Manor Farm (of Groundswell fame). The food provenance translates well to taste, and pub classics receive a charming upgrade: the ham, egg and chips comes with a maple-glazed Blythburgh bacon chop, a fried Lannock hen’s egg and baked apple sauce; the burger’s beef patty is Lannock Farm Long Horn, not a generic mince blend. For those after something more substantial, there’s a dry-aged Herefordshire beef sirloin on the bone or a Blythburgh double pork rack to share between two. Definitely also order the homemade Japanese milk bread, which is served with a little punnet of marmite butter. It’s almost the perfect practical argument for regenerative farming, and eating.

The George At A Glance

Where is The George located?

Restaurant is located in Garveley, Hitchin, SG4 7LE.

Who is the chef?

The executive chef is Joe Walker.

What kind of food is served?

Local and seasonal British food.

What’s the dress code?

There’s no strict dress code and diners are generally in smart-casual clothing.

What’s the price range?

Starters from £8, sharing plates and mains range from £20-85, and desserts start from £10.

Do they serve vegan and gluten-free options?

Yes, The George accommodates for vegan and gluten-free dietary preferences.

Do they accept walk-ins?

Yes.

BOOK IT:

Book via sevenrooms.com. The George, 19 High Street, Graveley, Nr Hitchin SG4 7LE