Where To Eat In Palermo, According To Honey & Co’s Sarit and Itamar

Palermo is known for its rich history and dazzling architecture, but it’s also a haven for foodies. Buzzing street markets, traditional trattorias, gelato bars, sea view restaurants: visitors are spoilt for choice when it comes to drinking and dining in the Sicilian capital. On a recent trip, chefs Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich, the husband-and-wife duo behind London restaurant group Honey & Co, were wowed by the city’s thriving food scene. Below, they share their guide to Palermo – from the best pasta of all time to adventurous street snacks.

A Chef’s Guide To Palermo

Flea Market, Piazza Marina

‘On Sundays there is a sprawling flea market in and around Piazza Marina where you can find almost everything, from green-glass wine flagons to soft-porn magazines from the ’70s. If you’re serious about giving your home a little Nonna-chic makeover you will be spoiled here: Murano glass knick-knacks, vintage Bialetti moka makers, yards of lace, needlework and crochet, heirlooms from the Sicilian grandmother you never had and always wanted. Once you’ve had your fill of rummaging through old treasures, the people-watching is second to none. Grab a shady table at Café Luca for an eyeful of the street scene and what is, in my opinion, the best coffee granita on the island – and I’ve tried a lot.’

Piazza Marina, 6, 90133 Palermo PA, Italy

(c) Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich

Nni Franco U Vastiddaru

‘Once you’ve cooled down a bit and maybe developed an appetite, nip up the road to Nni Franco U Vastiddaru, a good place to try Palermo’s ubiquitous street snack – the spleen sandwich. You really should try it: even if it doesn’t sound appealing, it is in fact delicious, and this version is particularly good. You can have it single or married (maritato) with cheese. And if it’s too early in the day (or in your life) for spleen married to cheese in a bun, there are plenty of other options, some just as eccentric – a fritto misto sandwich of potato croquettes and chickpea fritters, for example. All are freshly made and delicious.’

Via Vittorio Emanuele, 102, 90133 Palermo PA, Italy

Bar Touring

‘Bar Touring by the botanical gardens is a bit of an institution, and despite its name, much favoured by locals. In fact, they are so welcoming and friendly that you’ll feel at home in no time. Their signature giant arancini are a fun, filling snack – they are huge, they come in seven flavours, and they call them bombe, which is self-explanatory. If you’re tired of people-watching you can always switch to plant-watching in the excellent gardens, or wander the nearby streets until you’re ready for a bigger bite.’

Via Lincoln, 15, 90133 Palermo PA, Italy

Trattoria Piccolo Napoli

‘For fish, there is Trattoria Piccolo Napoli with its glittering display often crowned with the head of a swordfish, its sabre snout pointing skyward like a miniature skyscraper. This place has been owned and run by the same family since it opened in 1951 – part of it used to be the family home until the restaurant took over – and you’ll be welcomed like one of their own. The fish is spanking fresh and delicately handled; everything here is homely in the best possible sense of the word, made with love.’

Piazzetta Mulino a Vento, 4, 90139 Palermo PA, Italy

Trattoria al Vecchio Club Rosanero

‘For football watching – or rather, football-watchers watching – go to Trattoria al Vecchio Club Rosanero. It’s a little shrine to Palermo FC, complete with pink jerseys and signed balls. The vibe is lively and the food is good and generous, maybe overly so – you can order half portions of pasta dishes. Opening days and hours are a bit unpredictable, so worth checking before you go.’

Vicolo Caldomai, 18, 90134 Palermo PA, Italy

(c) Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich

The Palermo Markets

‘The Palermo markets are famous for good reason. Even if they are now geared more to tourists than locals, they are still worth a visit for top-quality produce and people-watching. The most souvenir-heavy is the Vucciria, but even so it’s so atmospheric that you really should go (at night it turns into a low-budget street party with dubious cocktails and music blasting from a thousand speakers – if that’s your scene, you’ll love it). 

‘Capo and Ballarò are less affected, where you can still hear vendors singing the praises of their wares and see locals haggling over the price of a giant watermelon. For the full experience, buy yourself a few peaches, an orange, or a bunch of grapes – you’ll be rewarded with a memorable interaction and a sweet bite of Sicilian fruit. There’s good eating here too: just avoid the stalls with pre-cooked food and look for the ones cooking fresh.’

Trattoria Corona

‘Trattoria Corona has a cosy neighbourhood feel with world-class cooking that doesn’t try too hard. Ingredients are front and centre, tradition is honoured but still feels fresh, and the food is quietly confident. I will never come to Palermo without going there. It’s not very far from the platonic ideal of a restaurant.’

Via Guglielmo Marconi, 9, 90141 Palermo PA, Italy, coronatrattoria.com

Villa Igiea

‘And the platonic ideal of a hotel? Remember that bar, that terrace? That is Villa Igiea, a dream in golden light. Built in the last century by the legendary Florio family and restored not long ago by Rocco Forte, this is both an escape from the city and a distillation of it: grand, charming, friendly, absurdly beautiful, theatrical in a way that would be too much anywhere but Palermo. To stay here is to step into the aristocratic heart of the city, into another reality, into any point in its storied past.’

Salita Belmonte, 43, 90142 Palermo PA, Italy, roccofortehotels.com

(c) Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich

Alicetta

‘Even if you aren’t staying, you should dedicate at least half a day to this place. I’d recommend starting with a late lunch at Alicetta, the outdoor restaurant, where the legendary Fulvio Pierangelini cooks with purity and joy. His food is elemental, utterly Sicilian – he even blends his own olive oil from the estate. The red prawn pasta, made with three kinds of tomato, is quite possibly the best you will ever eat. After lunch, wander the gardens; there are plenty of corners to lose yourself in. But try to find yourself back at the terrace bar in the early evening, with a good drink and a good table, ready to watch the sunset and the incredible human scene that will unfold in front of your eyes – the best show on earth.’

Salita Belmonte 43. Palermo, Italy Sicily 90142, roccofortehotels.com

Find out more about Sarit and Itamar’s restaurants at honeyandco.co.uk