Carlton Cannes, A Regent Hotel Review: The Grand Dame Of La Croisette

I happened to check into Carlton Cannes, a Regent Hotel, during the Cannes Film Festival, when the city is at its most frenetic. The hotel, like all the others along Le Croisette, was surrounded by crowds of hopeful celebrity spotters, waiting patiently for the next A-lister to emerge from one of the blacked-out SUVs inching towards the porte cochère. I could almost feel the collective disappointment when I stepped out instead. 

When it first opened in 1913, the Carlton quickly became the place to stay on the French Riviera, welcoming everyone from European royalty and aristocrats to Hollywood’s biggest stars. More than a century later, its sweeping Belle Époque façade and distinctive domed towers remain one of the defining landmarks on the famous seafront promenade. 

In 2023, following a two-year, €350 million restoration one of the largest hotel renovations ever undertaken on the French Riviera – the Carlton reopened after closing its doors for the first time in its history, having remained open through both World Wars. The overhaul was something of a talking point among the local residents, with many wondering whether the hotel would emerge looking like the Carlton they had always known. Thankfully, key features such as the original staircase remain, while the reopening has given many a reason to walk through its doors for the first time.  

French designer Tristan Auer carefully refreshed the interiors without losing sight of the building’s heritage, layering soft creams, warm ivories and sunshine yellows with brass accents, rattan detailing and subtle Riviera references that sit seamlessly within the original architecture. Behind the historic façade, there are now 369 rooms including two new wings with suites, a Mediterranean garden, spa and pool, and residences, which come with their own streetside entrance and kitchens for longer stays. 

Even during the Film Festival, the hotel somehow manages to retain an air of elegance, most notably in the bustling lobby with the sweeping staircase, on which impeccably dressed guests pause for photographs before heading out for the evening. That understated glamour continues upstairs, particularly in the Sean Connery Suite. One of the hotel’s seven Iconic Suites, it unfolds over a generous sitting room with creamy white interiors punctuated with soft yellow accents and a terrace overlooking La Croisette.

My favourite corner, however, was the cosy reading nook with its oval, ship-like window looking out towards the sea, while from the balcony there was a lovely side-on glimpse of one of the hotel’s famous domes, particularly beautiful at sunset as seagulls glided overhead. Alongside details like the pair of embroidered suede Vestieri slippers, specially created for the Carlton, each of these suites comes with a dedicated butler available on WhatsApp for everything from restaurant reservations to quietly escorting guests to the spa through a discreet private entrance.

Dining is split between two very different restaurants. Rüya has become one of Cannes’ hottest tables, bringing contemporary Anatolian cuisine to La Croisette with colourful sharing plates, charcoal-grilled meats and bold flavours inspired by Turkey’s diverse regions. But for a more classic Riviera experience, start with a dirty vodka martini at Bar°58 before heading to Riviera, where long-serving waiter Jean-François fillets a whole Dover sole tableside with the sort of flair that only comes from decades on the restaurant floor. Breakfast back at Riviera the following morning is just as lovely, best enjoyed outside on the terrace before La Croisette begins to stir.

The Carlton Beach Club, which became Cannes’ first private beach when it opened in 1930, is still today one of the hotel’s biggest attractions, but on bad weather days – as is so often the case during the Film Festival – the spa is the best spot to unwind. Alongside a menu of Swissline and 111SKIN facials, bespoke massages and body rituals, it’s the therapists themselves who stand out, delivering both my facial and massage with the kind of intuition and care that is exactly what you want from a great hotel spa. 

C&TH Key Notes

Best for: Film Festival and Cannes Lions, when the hotel becomes the social heart of La Croisette.

Room to request: One of the Iconic Suites for its butler service. But during busy periods, the Residences offer a quieter alternative.

Insider tip: If you’re staying in one of the Iconic Suites, ask your butler to escort you to the spa through the private entrance.

You should know: The Carlton Beach Club was Cannes’ first private beach, opening in 1930 and helping establish the city as a summer Riviera destination.

THE LAST WORD

Carlton Cannes has all the history and glamour you’d expect from one of the Riviera’s great hotels, but it’s the service that lingers longest. Under the leadership of General Manager Pierre-Louis Renou, there’s a confidence  that flows through the entire hotel, from the butlers and concierge to long-serving waiters like Jean-François. Beautiful buildings can be restored, but this kind of warm, intuitive service is what keeps guests coming back.

BOOK IT

Prices at Carlton Cannes start from €790 per night for a classic city view room, excluding breakfast. carltoncannes.com