Cowley Manor: Inside The Whimsical Hotel That Inspired Alice In Wonderland
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12 hours ago
With a dreamy spa, excellent food and stunning grounds, this is everything we want from a country hotel
We know, we know: the Cotswolds is overdone. With a constant flurry of A-listers buying up properties there and Jeremy Clarkson’s Prime show reeling in fans from all over the world, its pretty villages are facing overtourism (Bourton-on-the-Water is now being dubbed the ‘Venice of the Cotswolds’). Apparently the cooler place to be seen nowadays is the emerging region of the so-called Notswolds. But you can’t deny Gloucestershire is home to some of the UK’s finest hotels, which hold a unique Cotswolds charm other regions just can’t emanate.
A prime example? Cowley Manor Experimental, a historic Grade II-listed country manor which was taken over by the Paris-born Experimental Group in 2023, giving it a contemporary refresh. A year on from my Cotswolds wedding (and subsequent honeymoon), I headed back to the region for an anniversary stay at the boutique hotel; here’s how it fared.
Hotel Review: Cowley Manor, the Cotswolds
From the outside, Cowley Manor is your quintessential English country hotel: a picture-perfect manor sat amid 55 acres of sprawling greenery. But it quickly becomes clear there’s nothing ordinary about this hotel, which draws inspiration from the building’s rich history. Originally built in 1695, the property was once owned by English Kings – as well as serving as a refuge during World War II.
Most interestingly, though, it served as a muse for Lewis Carroll – the writer was a regular visitor to the hotel. As legend goes, Carroll was walking in Cowley Manor’s gardens with his friend Alice Liddell – for whom he wrote Alice in Wonderland – when he saw a rabbit disappear down a hole under the hedge. The rest is history. Stroll through the blooming gardens and you’ll immediately feel the Wonderland effect, with its labyrinth of walkways, lily ponds, meadows and arched alcoves leading to secret hideaways.
Inside feels equally fun and whimsical – but designer Dorothée Meilichzon and her team have been careful not to veer into gimmicky territory, instead injecting subtle nods to Alice in Wonderland through emblems of rabbits, mushrooms, playing cards and chess boards. Bold colours and fabrics feature throughout, with modern flourishes like rattan paired with original features of the building, such as stone fireplaces. Beside the lobby there are various lounge areas with royal blue sofas, plus a library and games room complete with darts, board games and a pool table – all overlooking the gardens, allowing light to stream in.
All 36 bedrooms are generously sized and no two are the same; ours was in the main house and featured green walls and a large pink bathroom with a huge terracotta bathtub and separate shower. Others are dotted around the stable blocks, some with four poster beds, terraces and views across the courtyard – and all feature HD TVs, Nespresso machines and minibars stocked with pre-mixed Experimental cocktails (we were also treated to macaroons with an ‘Eat Me’ label, a nice touch).
One of the biggest draws at Cowley Manor is its award-winning C-Side Spa. There’s an 15m inside pool with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the woodland surroundings, as well as an outdoor pool complete with sun loungers and a bar. You can also book treatments from Biologique Recherche and Oskia, and relax in the steam room and sauna.
Another highlight is the food and drink offering. Cocktails are pivotal to the Experimental brand, and it would be remiss not to kick off your evening here with an aperitif in the majestic bar. When ordering a cocktail it can be tempting to go for your tried-and-tested favourite, but we’d recommend trusting the bartender’s bespoke mixes here. The Spiced Cosmo is a mix of Saplings Vodka, Cointreau, lemon and spiced cranberry, while the Pear Margarita is a delicious twist on the classic. Just as much care goes into the non-alcoholic serves too: you won’t feel like you’re missing out when sipping the Fairground, made with Everleaf Marine, apple, ginger and tonka syrup.
Food is helmed by chef Jackson Boxer (Brunswick House, Henri), with a menu designed to showcase the best Cotswolds produce with nods to Experimental’s French roots. Guests can dine either in the restaurant – a grand space with ornate wooden wall panels, plush seating and a marble fireplace – or on the terrace, which looks out onto the lake and gardens. On a warm summer solstice evening, the latter felt right. We were treated to a memorable dinner kicking off with pillowy smoked honey and potato brioche, Old Spot pork croquettes and an impressive platter of crudites from the market garden, served with a stracciatella dip drizzled in green garlic oil. Next up was a simple yet delicious fresh taglioni pasta dish, and a standout Elkstone lamb flavoured with pistachio. We finished with the light Amalfi lemon curd, topped with strawberry and basil – the perfect summer dessert.
The next morning it was back to the terrace for breakfast while soaking up the views, bees and butterflies buzzing in the flowers beside us. There’s an excellent buffet of pastries, yoghurt, granola and fruit, as well as made-to-order dishes such as eggs, pancakes and a Full English.
You could easily while away a weekend without leaving the Cowley Manor premises, but the hotel is also well-placed for exploring the Cotswolds. Chocolate-box towns like Bibury and Painswick are a short drive away, as is the regency town of Cheltenham. The estate also sits right beside the Cotswold Way national trail, providing ample opportunities for walkers – and why not reward yourself with lunch at one of the many country pubs nearby, such as The Lamb Inn in Shipton-under-Wynchwood.
Alternatively, simply set up camp beneath a scalloped umbrella on the lawn, sip cocktails and soak up the Cowley Manor magic. Perhaps this dreamlike setting will inspire your next brainwave.
C&TH Key Notes
– What to eat: A three-course al fresco feast (the pork croquettes are a must)
– The drink order: The Pear Margarita
– The breakfast order: A Full English with Old Spot sausages, bacon and grilled mushrooms
– The room: Splash out on the Waterlily, which has its own outdoor space
– Don’t miss: A refreshing dip in the outdoor pool
The Last Word
A grand country hotel with a quirky design sense, glorious gardens and destination spa. Cowley Manor is well-suited to couples looking for a romantic getaway but also caters for families.
