Davos V Courchevel: Which Ski Resort Is Better?

By Felix Milns

2 weeks ago

Is this the ultimate piste-off?


Like moths to a flame, the great and glamorous are drawn to Courchevel, the St Tropez of the Alps. Yet long before the razzmatazz and the Russians, British skiiers were falling in love with this most quixotic of all French resorts. Meanwhile, the madness of The World Economic Forum aside, Davos is principally a free-spirited skier trapped in the body of the highest town in the Alps, bringing new meaning to city-break skiing and a whole different approach to evenings out. So which is better?

Davos V Courchevel: Which Ski Resort Is Better?

Courchevel ski lifts

(Courchevel Tourism)

The Case For Courchevel

Slope Style

Boasting the prettiest tree-lined skiing in Les Trois Valleés, Courchevel’s mostly north-facing slopes consistently deliver. In good conditions the Combe de Pylones is a terrific steep black, and you can carry on all the way down to Le Praz for an incredible top-to-bottom run.

Back Country

It’s hard to look past the series of steep couloirs of Saulire, but for a real test skin up the 40-degree north face of the Aiguille de Fruit. Your tracks back down will be seen from all across the valley.

The Mountain Lunch

There are many contenders for this crown. Some would plump for Bagatelle or Cap Horn, where DJs play live lunchtime sets atop piste bashers, but I have a soft spot for the three-tiered terraces and fresh prices of the Bel Air, regally situated up above the quiet slopes of 1650.

Dance It Off

While not technically in Courchevel, this outpost of the Folie Douce juggernaut services both M éribel and Courchevel. Watch the jeroboams being delivered to the VIP area by zip wire across the dancefloor.

Alternative Après

One of the star attractions of Courch’ is the way the palace hotels and the top chalets of the Jardin Alpin blend into the mid-mountain forest. There’s no better way to explore this than a moonlit dog sled ride.

One For The Kids

Aquamotion is a vast swimming pool and water slide complex shaped like a giant wave. Channel your inner Olympian on the high diving boards or indoor surf school. Young kids will love the splash zone or, if they are old enough, you can escape to the serenity of the award-winning spa.

Hotel To Bag

The Alpes Hôtel Pralong has just reopened after an extensive refurbishment, in a beautiful sunny piste-side position, just below the altiport. Doubles from €600 a night. alpeshoteldupralong.com

Sustainability Cred

Courchevel was awarded the Green Resort label in 2017, recognising it as a natural authentic destination respectful of the environment.

Did You Know?

Courchevel 1850 holds the highest concentration of Michelin stars of any ski resort in the world, with 12 stars spread over seven restaurants. Yannick Alléno’s superlative Le 1947 leads the field with three stars.

DISCOVER

Visit courchevel.com for more information.

Jasmine Flury 1K Vertikal Jakobshorn Winter Ski Alpin

Jasmine Flury 1K Vertikal Jakobshorn Winter Ski Alpin (Martin Bissig)

The Case For Davos

Slope Style

Sharing the ski area with neighbouring Klosters, there are more than 300km of snow-sure slopes across six distinct areas, though it is the neon – yellow chair lifts on the Parsenn mountain that access the best intermediate terrain, forming the link between Davos and Klosters.

Back Country

Say it quietly, but Davos Klosters has some of the best free riding in the Alps, never mind Switzerland. Especially if you are happy to do a bit of reverse ski touring, where you ski in and sk i out of countless hidden valleys. Epic.

The Mountain Lunch

OK, strictly speaking this is in the next-door hamlet of Wolfgang not Davos, but if it’s King Charles’ favourite then Kessler’s Kulm has got to be worth a mention. Apparently, he just ‘can’t resist the cheese plate’. Maybe that’s why Davos has rebranded its gondola as the King Charles Gondola.

Dance It Off

The free-spirited Jakobshorn mountain, developed as a hub for the new sport of snowboarding 40 years ago, is home to wild sun-kissed après every afternoon. Top spot is the Jatzh ütte, complete with palm trees and mountaintop hot tub.

Alternative Après

Anyone with more than a passing interest in fashion has to visit the Wintersport-Museum, where the best-dressed mannequins in town recreate mountain style from the dawn of skiing. The ski history’s pretty cool, too.

One For The Kids

There’s no better night out in Davos than a live ice hockey match and the stadium is renowned as the best in Europe. The ultra fans make a wall of blue and yellow noise throughout, the atmosphere is electric and it’s a fantastic live watch.

Hotel To Bag

The Hotel Grischa is right next to the train station and its contemporary style oozes class. Eschewing a spa in favour of five restaurants, the Chinese Golden Dragon sells out two sittings a night. Doubles from £214 a night. hotelgrischa.ch

Sustainability Cred

Powered largely by hydropower, Davos is aiming to be the first carbon-neutral ski resort in Switzerland by 2030. Plus, you get to arrive by train.

Did You Know?

Originally a spa town for tuberculosis patients, the English fell in love with Davos and started one of the oldest ski races in history. The Parsenn Derby celebrated its 100th anniversary this year.

DISCOVER

Visit myswitzerland.com and davos.ch for more information