Inside Durham’s Historic High Force Hotel

Wendyrosie Scott checks into High Force Hotel on the Raby Estate in Durham – and checks out the area’s famous waterfall.

Review: High Force Hotel, Teesdale, Durham

Cosy nooks and crannies, contemporary design, olde worlde bars and quirky spaces; warm, welcoming hosts and locals; blazing real fires and delicious food. This is the modern equivalent for those weary travellers seeking stylish shelter and a damn fine dram after alighting from ye old coach and horses. High Force Hotel in Teesdale, Durham is noted for its geography, amenities and ‘Stargazing Suppers’, and as a hotel inn, was mentioned in a Travellers Guide back in 1883.

Set in surrounds both wild and ancient, its mostly uninterrupted landscape stretches across wide open moors where the weather can be unforgiving – but this is part of its magnetism. I visited to enjoy its Stargazing Suppers and experience the local living attraction: High Force, a theatrical waterfall with an awe-inspiring aesthetic and an audible acoustic sound so intense that it’s heart-pounding. The stunning setting has been shaped by millions of years of natural processes and thousands of years of communities living and working here. Its rock formations and ice age features are jaw-dropping.

STAY

Each room has its own character; our generously-sized Deluxe King room had an aesthetic which felt as if it merged contemporary cottage luxe with the main scene from the 1985 film adaptation of Room with a View (though our vista was an invigorating rural idyll whose beautifully raw pastures spoke of local author Catherine Cookson). It was complete with fine furnishings, a gargantuan bed and an antique wardrobe which discreetly housed a TV. From the ensuite bathroom to the complimentary accoutrements, every element was luxurious.

EAT

Part of the Raby Estate, High Force Hotel is a gem with an impressive history, and the area is home to some of the UK’s rarest plants, iconic birds and wonderful wildlife. An added benefit is that guests gain free access to the estate’s fantastic Raby Castle, along with the Deer Park and the gardens (and, of course, the waterfall). Supper was a delicious and filling three-course affair; we opted for a wholesome and creamy vegetable soup, prawn cocktail, and Thai vegetable curry, as well as a fillet of salmon, banoffee pie, and sticky toffee pudding with butterscotch sauce. As a dog-friendly establishment (always a plus), we received great service, as did our four-legged friend.

DO

The hotel’s popular Stargazing & Supper package includes an exclusive evening walk to the waterfall and an informal pre-dinner lecture with astronomers outlining the constellations you might spot. It was deep winter when we visited, and wind and snow had taken hold. While the colder months can bring crystal clear skies – the perfect vehicle for stargazing – we didn’t see much; but no one seemed to mind, given the specially-arranged evening to walk to the waterfall, which was magical. After all, we were well-fed and in spectacular surroundings; all is well in the woods!  

(c) Lewis Brown Stargazing Photography

THE FINAL WORD

With stellar service, comfortable spaces, great drinks and plenty of cosy corners to curl up in (and grab a lifestyle magazine, provided for customer use), High Force Hotel offers a great stay, and one worthy of a revisit. Highly recommended.

BOOK IT

Stargazing Suppers will recommence in August 2025 with select dates until March 2026, but be speedy: they’re snapped up fast. You can also wait and secure a cancellation booking. raby.co.uk