Review: Sunday Roast At The Angel Inn, Highgate

The Red Lion & Sun in Highgate has been serving up one of London’s best roasts for years, consistently ranking highly in ‘best of’ lists and gastropub awards, so much so that securing a table can be a pain. Good news for locals, then, as Heath Ball and the team behind the pub have relaunched another Highgate address, The Angel Inn, nestled on the corner of the high street at the end of Pond Square. Here, there’s a lighter, brighter interior, and an all-day dining concept from breakfast through brunch, lunch and dinner, with a menu by Head Chef Vincent Millet. It’s a pub with a bistro flavour, minimal decor, modern paintings and green leather banquette seating and house frozen margaritas on tap alongside niche and independent pub pours. It’s walk-ins only whether you’re looking for breakfast, lunch or dinner, but we walked in to try the Sunday Roast, which Giles Coren recently described as a ‘perfect 10’ in the Times. So, does it deliver?

The Angel Inn, Highgate

The Angel Inn has an unassuming facade, save for the notable headless angel on the corner overlooking, well, very little actually, on account of its missing head. Inside the renovated interior is much lighter and brighter than your average British boozer, and it quickly becomes clear that this is because you’re not in an average British boozer. The first two things I see on entry that scream ‘not your average pub’ are a frozen margarita machine (also a favourite at The Red Lion & Sun), and a basket of fresh pastries at the end of the bar, which I will be sampling on my next visit rather than queueing out the door at Gail’s across the street. Posh pastries, frozen cocktails and pop art signage might set off alarm-bells of an Insta-pub, but these are just little quirks of a simple, modern pub experience elevated through thoughtful extra touches and a focus on real quality. 

This quality comes in the choice of ingredients and the craft of simple food done brilliantly. Founder Heath says: ‘At The Angel Inn, we’ve taken the familiar format of the British pub and reimagined it for how people want to eat and socialise today. All-day dining is at the core of our offering, and we’ve built the menu around produce we trust from long-standing suppliers. Whether it’s smoked fish from Cornwall, seasonal vegetables or house-made pies, everything is crafted with care and simplicity.’ The Sunday roast is the epitome of this. A perfectly-portioned, wholesome plate of British favourites, cooked beautifully. 

Non-meat-eaters generally avoid Sunday roasts, a meal unapologetically focused around the meat. And while my dining companion confirmed that the beef was perfectly cooked (crisp outer, pink inner), and the gravy delicious, I opted for the veggie wellington, served with a giant Yorkshire pudding (worth the visit alone), decent roast potatoes, broccoli and a childhood favourite, buttery suede and carrot mash. Veggie wellingtons have a tendency to be underwhelming and stodgy, more pastry than filling and an unidentifiable filling of minced mushroom mush. What a delight then, to be served this light, layered vegetable slice, with well-seasoned mushrooms atop a slice of beetroot and a herby spinach base. Add a generous spoonful of horseradish and along with the vegan gravy you’ve got a hearty British meal made into plant-based perfection. 

This is the great thing about the new Angel Inn: you’re just as welcome to order a vegan slice and a carrot juice as a beef roast with a glass of hearty red. But there’s no pretension for either, the service is friendly and laid-back and there’s a come-as-you-are feel. If you are looking for a glass of wine, however, you’re in the right place, as The Angel Inn has a vast and interesting wine selection featuring organic and biodynamic bottles, with a particular focus on wild-fermented and orange wines sourced from small, family-run producers. 

THE FINAL WORD

Frozen margs, fermented wines, fancy coffee and plant-based dishes that actually deliver. As we said, this is not your average British boozer. Roasts are consistently selling out by mid-afternoon, so get there early and arrive hungry. Apparently the breakfast is even more brilliant than the roast, with kippers, my grandfather’s favourite and there a nostalgic treat, highly in demand.

BOOK

You can’t. Walk-ins only, at The Angel Inn, 37 Highgate High St, Greater, London N6 5JT | theangel.pub | @theangeln6