Escape The Autopista: Inside Off-Grid Girona’s Countryside Dream

As we drive through the region of Alta Garrotxa, in the eastern foothills of the Spanish Pyrenees, I’m blown away by the gloriously unspoilt ancient forest covering every mountaintop – an undulating vista of dense leaf-green that’s unbroken by any building, water tower or communication mast. 

This picturesque corner of Catalonia reveals wild volcanic landscapes, the ink-blue natural lake of Banyoles, the arcaded eleventh-century streets of the county’s capital, Besalú (once run by Count Wilfred the Hairy) and signs to tastings at acclaimed Empordà wineries – delights unguessed at on our usual rat run down the nearby autopista from the French border to the south-west coast of Spain.

It takes us less than 40 minutes to drive from Girona-Costa Brava airport to Off-Grid Girona, yet feels like another world when the narrow switchback lanes lead us to a peaceful small hamlet at the foot of a valley, overlooked by the tallest mountain in the area, Mare de De u del Mont. 

Stepping out into spring air and birdsong, we admire the newly planted olive trees and lavender in front of this 10-bedroom, seventeenth-century stone masia, with its medieval tower and farm outbuildings that have been variously converted into a self-contained four-bedroom barn, an airy, raftered yoga studio and a dedicated bicycle workshop. We halloo for our hosts and are so warmly greeted by Berta del Castillo, the general manager, it feels as though we’ve arrived for a weekend with friends – a mood that lasts throughout our stay.

Gerard Greene, the affable bearded owner, made his name as co-founder of the urban YOTEL chain, but tells us he ‘got bored of the sameness of luxury hotels in cities’ and decided to follow his dream for a more hands-on life in the countryside. On these five hectares, he not only has his own veg patch and tractor but helms a community project he describes as ‘a mini-village within a village’, where he lives on site alongside many of the staff, including Lily the gardener and Reed the genial Essex handyman.

The interiors fulfil Gerard’s plan for ‘rustic luxury’ by retaining historic features without the heaviness of traditional Spanish abuela style. Instead, there are well-chosen vintage and upcycled pieces pulled together with the help of Girona-based designer Ariadna Puigdomenech, alongside modern monsoon showers, soothing limewashed colours and sensuous textures such as reclaimed wood and stone washbasins. Gerard’s ongoing sustainable vision includes natural spring water, on-site composting and plans for full renewable energy. It all adds up to an uncluttered, easy airiness, both inside and out – a comfortable sense of ‘home’ rather than ‘hotel’, somewhere to switch off from everyday stress and switch on to nature and the great outdoors.

The extraordinary variety of activities within reach of this former agricultural estate ranges from birdwatching to biking or ballooning. Berta is a fantastic source of advice about quiet beaches on the Costa Brava, parking spots for a day out in historic Girona (seen in series six of Game of Thrones), and how to plan a day’s hike that includes a hostelry stop for a glass of local vermouth and Catalan sardinas.

The area is a go-to for cyclists of all nationalities and Gerard not only hosts local cycle events but has created a pro-level bike workshop in the garden, complete with a TV for watching the Tour de France and recycled leather dental chairs for lounging on while talking axle maintenance.

With all this fresh air and healthy living, who doesn’t need oats, yoghurt and homemade granola to start the day? Along with eggs, local fruit, cheeses and meats, you can pile it all onto your plate in the charmingly rustic dining room and eat in the sunshine by the pool. 

Evening meals are served five times a week by Zu, the resident chef, at a communal table, each menu magicked from whatever seasonal ingredients are available that day from their network of local producers, including cheesemakers and bakers. There’s also an honesty bar stocked with local wines and craft beer.

Literally everything has been sourced locally, in fact, including the Olively bathroom products by a young Catalan entrepreneur using her family’s olive oil, the Bekume cotton bedlinen, the comfortable Sivana mattresses, the recycled yoga mats and the masia’s Empordà essential oil fragrance, created by Shisen’na, a small enterprise in Girona. 

C&TH Key Notes

–Eat: Parmesan croquetas at La Guixera, a traditional country taberna run by a local foodie couple.

–Room to request: The Mountain View Suite with its sunrise balcony.

–Don’t miss: A feathery-light Japanese face massage by the gifted in-house masseur.  

–Perfect for: Hikers, cyclists, open-air lovers, medieval architecture nerds, yogis and winos.

–Highlight: A memorably enjoyable dinner around the communal dining table, sharing trail tips and anecdotes.

The Last Word

Best in spring and autumn, Off Grid Girona is a haven for rebooting body and soul in the Catalan countryside, where the mix of hiking, touring, sun salutations and poolside reading make it a rare find for couples or families negotiating different holiday preferences.

BOOK 

Rooms from 180 euros (c. £160) per night including breakfast, based on two sharing. offgridgirona.com