TreeDwellers, Oxfordshire: Rise Above It All With A Stay Suspended In The Trees

Emily Gazzard née Winkley. Or, as I have always called her, Phlegm Winkleberry, and I have been best friends since we were 11 – two of only a handful of state school girls who walked through the gates of St Paul’s Girls’ School and immediately found each other – our fuzzy haircuts and lack of ability to speak fluent French bonding us in the face of prep school polish.

We had our first cigarettes together, made from teabags. We went to the pub together (way before it was legal). We had sleepovers every Monday, lying in the dark listening to the James Whale late night chat show on the radio, creasing ourselves at the people ringing in with their sexual or relationship problems.

Over the decades I have put her through quite a lot. I’ve made her set up jumping rounds for dogs. I’ve dragged her on walks where we got so stuck in the mud that I laughed until (full disclosure) I wet myself. I’ve put her on a reckless pony that bolted through the garden and threw her off. I’m pretty sure I broke her toe, or perhaps that was the pony. I made her watch horror films at my granny’s house, then took her into the creepy boiler room to scare her witless. She had to endure endless quizzes in the car, set by my dad who would encourage us to name 30 breeds of dog while he chain-smoked Benson & Hedges. I’ve made her play dares with my cousins, which included one of them eating dog food – and then going back for a second bite. 

Our friendship continued through different schools, university, disastrous love affairs, marriages and children. So when her 50th birthday arrived earlier this year, I wanted to do something different which involved the great outdoors, walking and plenty of time to chat. And that is why, one Friday night, we both made our way to TreeDwellers, set within the 1,700-acre ancient woodland of Cornbury Estate, Oxfordshire.

TreeDwellers has seven futuristic-looking buildings suspended high above the forest floor – not treehouses in the traditional sense, but rather houses that look a bit like caterpillars. Ours was called Kanna and, inside, there’s no skimping on comfort or space. It  came with a bath, TV, Sonos sound system and a cosy log burner. I gave her the master bedroom while I happily took the sofa bed in the sitting room (but there are bigger cabins available). On our first night, we ate Bounty bars and watched My Violent Child. Odd choice of viewing, but we like to get into the big stuff fast.

The next day, the wood revealed itself to us through the many windows as we drank mugs of tea and plotted our day ahead. We were thick in Cotswolds country – and you can go one of two ways… You can choose Soho House, Estelle Manor, Daylesford vibes or you can ignore the hyped places and just enjoy the richness and beauty of your rural surroundings. Walks, pubs, and relaxing. Just what two 50-year-olds desire in life now.

The Bull, Charlbury

First stop then was The Wild Sauna. We were chauffeured there (about a 30 minute drive away) in immaculate style in an electric Land Rover thanks to Electrogenics, which converts classic cars into silent electric ones. We are both obsessed with sauna and like nothing more than a night out sweating and drinking litres of water (how times have changed).  

A lockdown business that’s now booming, the founders converted a 1960s horsebox into the height of sauna chic. Even better is that it is located by the River Stour so you can get genuine cold therapy too (we were there in March so that worked a treat). With facemasks, body scrubs and a hot tub, our two-hour session passed in a flash.

Endorphins swooshing, and after a quick pub lunch of hasselback potatoes, we were then ready for our big walk. Helpfully, TreeDwellers suggests the perfect circular ramble through the Cornbury Estate starting and ending in Charlbury. We stomped across rivers, down pretty lanes, and meadows, up tracks and past signs called The Bottom (see photo below). Yes, we’re still 11 at heart.

Back at TreeDwellers, we had baths and read our books before the big night out. Charlbury (just a ten minute drive away) is home to The Bull, a wonderfully charismatic and popular pub (part of the Public House group) which we’d managed to wrangle a table at. It was perfect, right by the fire. We people-watched, ate more potatoes and drank champagne. But mostly we looked forward to cosying up back in our suspended home for the weekend – lulled by the silence, accompanied by the trees and clinking our mint teas for another half century. 

Food & Drink Recommendations:

• The Plough Inn and The Royal Oak in Ramsden are both within walking distance. Expect quintessential British pubs with hearty menus.
• The Bird in Hand is just a few minutes in the car and is popular with locals and visitors. |
• The Bell and The Bull in Charlbury are both a short drive away (less than 10 minutes). With roots in the London circuit, they serve a more ‘elevated’ menu. Booking is recommended.
• The property is self-catered but essentials, including coffee, will be in your arrival hamper. You can get your hands on a full breakfast and supplies at Charlbury Deli or Missing Bean until 11.30 if you wish for something substantial to start the day – The Bull also does a mammoth Full English. Plus, there’s a small Co-op in Charlbury. 

BOOK IT: TreeDwellers from £249 per night, two-night minimum.