I Snagged A Table In Jackson Boxer’s New Restaurant Vesper – Here’s What I Thought

Jackson Boxer is a sort of bachelor of the restaurant world – that is, he’s a serial restaurateur, always chasing the thrill of a new opening (as he told C&TH in May). From Vauxhall’s eclectic antique shop and restaurant Brunswick House to Dove in Notting Hill, where diners fight for one of ten burgers a day, each of Boxer’s restaurants attract a loyal following. His latest opening, Vesper in Exmouth Market, promises much of the same, and has already been received as a tour de force by the food world – the Evening Standard called it knockout – while prime-time dinner tables are hot cakes, requiring serious advance booking. 

In First Sitting, we take you into London’s buzziest restaurant openings. This time: Vesper restaurant in Exmouth Market.

Inside Jackson Boxer’s New Restaurant, Vesper

The Scene

It’s a fitting spot for a Boxer opening. This new bistro favours modern European cooking and there’s something distinctly European about Clerkenwell’s Exmouth Market, with its mass of pavement tables, flung-open bifold doors, and, yes, string of French restaurants. Vesper channels a Parisian spirit, on the evening of my visit. It has a terrace with little metal tables, and – two doors down at the nearest pub – there’s a crowd gathered by outdoor screens for the England World Cup match. It’s a chafingly warm day to visit, but stepping into the cool design of the restaurant, imagined by Jermaine Gallacher, is the exact tonic. 

The space itself feels almost half-undone with metal and beams – with the former you’ll see a zinc-topped counter taking centre stage, each of its corners joined by silver rivets, at which diners on high stools sip martinis. It feels like a cool friend’s industrial home kitchen, although with concessions to comfort baked in; there are dusty orange banquettes rinking the room, and wooden tables covered by starchy white tablecloths and tall candles beginning to lean as they melt. Each corner houses a speaker playing an urgent undercurrent that’s hard to make out against the chat of a chocka dining room – full in spite of an England match – Boxer in interviews has said he’s a former punk rocker and his other venues host live jazz, so safely assume it’s at least a well-groomed playlist. I watch as a table of two becomes a table of four after a bottle of wine; it’s a sociable atmosphere and, with the low lighting, a place to be (half) seen. 

The Drinks

The eponymous martini

The drinks begin their life behind these riveted metal counters from which all dishes arrive. The list is apt for their weather – the sgroppino is an ice cold watermelon and lemon verbena slushie while the gooseberry margarita is chilled, sticky and tangy; the eponymous martini comes in a stout, frosty glass with a glowing hue. The wine list is large, and excavating it unnecessary if you’re willing to trust the team (who are convivial and helpful, regularly stopping by); we ask for a red and receive a jiggling rioja, so it’s not a risky list to order from. 

The Food

Fougasse at Vesper

Boxer leans heavily on French flavours; we enjoy a malted fougasse as part of the snacking course (a Provencal hearth bread that’s often plaited with ingredients), and later a steak frites (if that’s a fair description of a 900g portion of aged Belted Galloway beef rib). But the menu curates pan-European hits from his other restaurants, too. The coveted Dove burger makes an appearance – it’s ‘off-menu’ but recommended at the outset of our meal so as off-menu as a special of the day – at our neighbour’s table. It is recommended as a bridge between the starters and mains which is the one recommendation I don’t agree with – a double-decker served with beer mustard, it makes my heart pound just looking at it.

The spring onion pancake

The absolute highlight of the meal was at outset of the food marathon: the tuna spring pancake, with a slab of tuna so thick it might have been a complete cross-section of the fish – this is as pretty as it was peppery (super), topped a martini olive and neatly coiled anchovy.

There’s a point of ‘quirk’ to every item on the menu that’s Boxer’s signature, really. There’s a smoked trout topped with wasabi (sensible) and raspberry (whimsy); the dessert, strawberries and cream is crowned with a biscuit and is sort of a kids dessert meets breakfast granola. There’s a joy to everything. Oh, and when I go to the loo, in the basement by the kitchen – Boxer is definitely present – not yet in the thrall of the next opening. 

Any Low Moments?

Nary a thing fell under standard during our visit. The starters possibly outshone the mains, but these – taken in isolation – were nonetheless excellent. My only criticism might be that you’d be hard-pressed to grab a booking without a minimum of a month’s advance planning. 

Vesper At A Glance

Where is Vesper located?

Vesper is located at 8-10 Exmouth Market, London EC1R 4QA

Who is the chef?

The chef-patron is Jackson Boxer.

What kind of cuisine is served?

The food is modern European with global influences.

What’s the dress code?

There’s no strict dress code; wear your typical restaurant garb.

What’s the price range? 

Starters from £14, mains from £19 (but go up to £37), desserts from £10.

Do they serve vegan options?

Not especially well for vegans; the menu changes daily and has a heavy emphasis on dairy and meat. 

Do they accept walk-ins?

Risky strategy – as booking are extremely hard to come and the restaurant is frequently full by you’d be best to avoid a walk-in. 

BOOK IT:

Book via sevenrooms.com. More information at vesper.restaurant