Adam Byatt’s Rosina Is The Hot New Restaurant Wandsworth Common Needed
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3 hours ago
We tried south-west London's eagerly anticipated new Italian
Bellevue Road, the pretty street which stretches along beside Wandsworth Common, has long been crying out for an exciting foodie opening. Aside from the esteemed French restaurant Chez Bruce, which has been there since 1995, the area has been somewhat underserved when it comes to culinary credentials. But now chef Adam Byatt is filling the gap with Rosina, a new Italian eatery located in the site that formerly housed Brinkley’s, perched on the corner overlooking the green.
Byatt is best known for his Michelin-starred restaurant Trinity in Clapham, alongside the more recently opened Brasserie Constance – a grand eatery set beside the river in Fulham. But Rosina feels like his most personal project yet: it’s located in his hometown of Wandsworth, and named after his daughter Rosie (who also works in the kitchen). The restaurant is also Byatt’s first professional foray into Italian cooking, despite being the type of cuisine he most often prepares at home for family and friends.
Days after opening, C&TH’s Ellie Smith gave it a test drive for our First Sitting column.
(c) Mike Sim
The Scene
Rosina is a beautiful space which strikes the perfect balance between neighbourhood restaurant and special occasion spot. The interiors are bright and airy, with statement hanging lamps, green sofa seating and a large mirror with specials scribbled on, plus a central marble island housing plants and bowls of lemons and peaches.
There’s a chic bar area with booth seating and black and white photographs of figures like Audrey Hepburn lining the walls, and an open kitchen allowing diners to have a peek at the chefs in action. We visited on a Wednesday night, but the restaurant was buzzing – filled with a mix of families and couples clinking their champagne glasses on date nights. And outside there’s a covered terrace, ideal for al fresco dining during the summer months.
(c) Mike Sim
The Drinks
Kick things off with an aperitif: there are five variations of a negroni (the cherry sour is a highlight, made with Haymans Gin, Cocchi di Torino and spiced cherry cordial), as well as a zesty twist on an Aperol Spritz. Perfect for sipping while enjoying the initial bread and olives, which arrive on your table as soon as you sit down.
Curated personally by Byatt, the wine list focuses on organic and biodynamic wines from across Italy – with a special focus on 2008 wines, a nod to the year his daughter was born. Glasses start from just £8, and there are plenty of bottles for under £50, but if you want to splash out there are lots of premium options too.
The Food
Byatt has brought in Will Bee as head chef, who hails from top kitchens like the Michelin-starred Lita in Marylebone and Padstow’s Paul Ainsworth at No. 6. The menu is a celebration of Italy’s most beloved recipes, using produce from both the UK and Italy, with fun touches and creative flavour pairings giving the restaurant a fresh, contemporary feel.
Datterini tomatoes and mozzarella (c) Mike Sim
Begin with a couple of bite-sized snacks, like melanzane fritte (crispy fried aubergine) and gnocco fritto (a fried bread snack originating from the Emilia-Romagna region) before moving onto the official starters. The datterini tomatoes and mozzarella di bufala dish is jazzed up with pieces of nectarine and a basil dressing, while the tuna crudo is the perfect light summer starter, drizzled in a sweet and sour apricot and yellow pepper sauce.
When it comes to the mains, there’s a selection of pasta, meat and fish dishes alongside a couple of generous sharers. For the former, the mezzemaniche ragu is a highlight: pasta is folded into ‘half sleeves’ and served in a rich braise of pork, beef, veal and tomatoes, but the portion is sized well so as to avoid being overbearing. The cacio e pepe is a steal at just £8 – and don’t overlook the post-service pasta, Byatt’s go-to midnight feast of spaghetti with anchovies, garlic, chilli and parsley (with the option to upgrade with a helping of bottarga). There’s also a signature risotto bianco dish which takes 20 minutes to make – we didn’t try this but spotted others happily tucking in with wide eyes. Other favourites included a standout turbot roasted on the bone with a sauce of lemon, capers and parsley, best enjoyed with a helping of deliciously moreish fried potatoes.
Tiramisu (c) Mike Sim
After all this my dining partner and I were stuffed and agreed we simply couldn’t manage a pudding… until the waitress told us about the tiramisu, that is. Dished out tableside, you can choose how big a scoop you want (and however full you are, you’re going to want a big one). The Amalfi lemon tart also caught our eye (next time) – or, if you really can’t manage something big, finish on a sweet note with a small bowl of iced cherries from the trolley.
It’s worth mentioning the outstanding service, too: slick yet informal and friendly. Word on the street is that Saturday evenings are already booked out until September, but this won’t be one of those buzzy restaurants where the hype dies down after a couple of months. Just like Trinity down the road, Rosina is clearly en route to becoming a local institution.
At A Glance
Where is Rosina located?
35 Bellevue Rd, London SW17 7EF
Who is the chef?
Will Bee is head chef, with Adam Byatt heading up the restaurant.
What kind of cuisine is served?
Italian.
What’s the dress code?
Smart-casual or casual – there’s a relaxed vibe so no need to don your finest outfit, but you wouldn’t feel out of place if you want to dress up a bit.
What’s the price range?
Both starters and mains start at £8, with the most expensive dish on the menu being a £78 vitello Florentine.
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