Santiago Lastra On Michelin Stars and Misconceptions About Mexican Food

Growing up in the tiny Mexican town of Cuernavaca, Santiago Lastra first started cooking to help his family cope with the grief of losing their father. Now, he’s making culinary waves all over the world. Lastra sprung to fame back in 2017 after being headhunted by René Redzepi for his Noma pop-up in Tulum, which he project managed for 18 months. He then made a name for himself running sell out supper clubs around the world before launching his own restaurant, KOL in Marylebone, which uses British ingredients to create innovative Mexican tasting menus. A year and a half after opening it secured a Michelin star, which it retains today. And in 2024, Lastra launched a second restaurant: Fonda on Heddon Street, inspired by the fondas of Mexico – unpretentious places to eat found throughout Mexico City.

Now, he’s sharing his years of culinary expertise in his debut cookbook, Mexican Soul, designed to help home cooks recreate the flavours of Mexico using accessible ingredients. We hear more below.

Foodie Tales: Santiago Lastra

Where do you find your inspiration? 

For me, inspiration often comes from what I’m craving. If there’s something I really want to eat, I cook it, and that’s usually where an idea begins. For the restaurants, inspiration is more abstract and personal. It might come from a texture, a presentation, a dish I’ve tasted while travelling, or simply the feeling that meal gave me. I try to translate those emotions into food. Inspiration can come from anywhere – a dream, a train journey, or even a long shower. For the cookbook, the focus is different. I think about what home cooks actually have available and what they’d be excited to share with family and friends. The recipes need to be delicious, healthy, easy to make, and realistic for everyday cooking. 

What’s the biggest misconception about Mexican food? 

One of the biggest misconceptions is that Mexican food is only tacos, burritos or Tex-Mex. Dishes like nachos and chilli con carne actually come from Texas, not Mexico. Another misconception is that Mexican food is only street food. We have an incredible tradition of home cooking that isn’t widely known outside of Mexico. Every region has its own ingredients, flavours and dishes – making Mexican cuisine one of the most diverse in the world. 

How important are Michelin stars and awards to you? 

I’m incredibly grateful for every award and recognition we’ve received. They reflect the consistency, passion, and hard work of the whole team, and they’re a meaningful way of recognising what we do. It’s always an honour to be included in those lists. 

Tell us about your cookbook, Mexican Soul. What can we expect? 

Mexican Soul is a tool to help people learn more about Mexico through food and to cook more Mexican food at home, wherever they are in the world. The first part of the book explains what Mexican food really is, the thinking behind its flavours, and introduces the essential building blocks of Mexican cooking with traditional recipes and techniques. The second part is about making Mexican cooking more accessible. Instead of relying on ingredients from Mexico, the book encourages people to cook with whatever they already have in their cupboards. You’ll find ideas like potato mash tortillas, ceviches made with seasonal ingredients, and salsas using nuts and locally available produce. The goal is to make Mexican food approachable, delicious, and easy to cook at home. 

Favourite recipe from the book? 

One of my favourites is the beef salpicón. It’s slow-cooked short rib served as a fresh salad on sourdough toast. My mum used to make it when I was a kid, so it’s very nostalgic for me. It’s refreshing, high in protein, healthy, and absolutely delicious. 

KOL

Most memorable meal of all time?

It has to be lobster tacos in Baja California. The lobsters are caught early in the morning, cut in half, fried in pork fat, and served on the beach with Mexican rice, fresh salsas, handmade tortillas, and a cold beer or local wine. It’s one of the most memorable food experiences I’ve ever had. 

If you weren’t a chef, what career would you have chosen? 

When I was a kid, I wanted to be a mathematician. I imagine I’d probably be a maths teacher at a university, with grey hair, teaching students and trying to solve problems that don’t exist. 

Fonda

Which kitchen tool should everyone own? 

A tortilla press. You can make tortillas without one, but it’s so much easier and they’re very affordable. If you enjoy cooking Mexican food, it’s absolutely worth investing in one. 

What’s your cocktail of choice? 

A Negroni – although I’m always happy if it’s a Mezcal Negroni. 

How do you live a balanced life? 

I’m still figuring it out. One thing I’ve learnt is that no matter how busy or stressed you are, you have to make time for the people around you. Family and close friends are incredibly important, and I always try to check in on them. I also meditate and make time for hobbies outside of work. Those moments help me keep some balance between life and the restaurant. 

Mexican Soul is out now (Quadrille Publishing Ltd)