Up In The Air In The Norwegian Wilderness At Pan Treetop Cabins

‘Multiple reasons, really.’ That’s the simple answer given to me by Christine Mowinckel, the mastermind behind Norway’s award-winning PAN Tretopphytter (or PAN Tree Cabins in English), when I ask her what inspired the name. ‘Of course, there is Pan, the god of the wilderness; there is Pan to represent the panoramic views, but also there is Peter Pan who lived in the trees with his lost boys. So, it fitted on so many levels.’

We are on the approach to the complex – consisting of three elevated cabins in Finnskogen, a vast wooded region in eastern Norway known for its profound wilderness – when we discuss this. They make up Christine and her husband and co-owner Kristian Rostad’s private forest. ‘My husband’s family owns the farm, and Kristian and I wanted to do something else with the land that respected the area, but shared its beauty with others,’ Christine explains.

Credit: Andreas Kokkvoll

Eastern Norway is a less-trodden area of the country, but no less fascinating. Its forests are part of the Taiga, the world’s largest forest belt. ‘You are in the middle of this huge ecological system brimming with wildlife. There is no other place in Norway where you can encounter the same unique wildlife, including elks, wolves, bears, lynx and wolverines all in one place,’ Christine says.

On the journey through the forest to the cabin, we don’t bump into another soul. On arrival at PAN 1, we pause to take in the wonder of our home for the week: a triangular treehouse perches eight metres above the forest floor and surrounded by towering pine trees, giving the impression of floating in mid-air. Designed by Norwegian architect Espen Surnevik, the shape and ergonomics are masterful; a minimal Scandinavian steel frame, the floor-to-ceiling windows, and an undoubtedly space-age impact. If an Ewok were to run out of the forest, we wouldn’t have batted an eyelid. These elevated cabins are out of the ordinary. 

I climb the cabin’s spiral staircase with my four-year-old racing ahead with excitement. Inside, we are greeted with a fridge filled with local treats, from blackberry jam and eggs to fresh bread, cheese and charcuterie. 

Credit: Even Baardseth

For meals, we find ingredients for easy-to-cook recipes. On our first night, my husband and daughter get stuck into pizza making. Balls of dough are provided, as are the sauce, cheese and pepperoni. A rolling pin and a bit of elbow grease are all that’s needed; it’s easy, interactive and great fun for our little family.

The next morning, we discover a container of pancake batter in the fridge. A few minutes later, we’re devouring hot crepes with lashings of local jam. The beauty of PAN’s self-catering concept is that local food can be delivered straight to your door, keeping your attention fully on your beautiful surroundings without the need to turn savage for food.

Drawn to the window, we open the cabin’s sliding door to appreciate its seat overlooking the forest and Gjessåsjøen lake. Looking out across the treetops and watching the sun set quickly becomes a favourite evening ritual. The low level of light pollution means an immeasurable number of stars are visible, too. Our evenings are spent stargazing and pointing out the different constellations. In fact, my husband and I both agreed that the area should be declared an International Dark Sky Reserve; it is by far the most stars we’ve seen since our childhoods.

Credit: Andreas Kokkvoll

PAN’s al fresco hot tub is another evening activity, on Christine’s recommendation, peering over the forest with a star-spangled sky for a ceiling. The Milky Way can be seen on clear nights, and candles are lit to create a soothing atmosphere. There’s a yoga platform here, too, while a sauna is being built to complete the offering.

PAN’s approach to wellbeing is centred on disconnecting from modern life, slowing down, and immersing yourself in nature, so understandably (and pleasingly) there’s no Wi-Fi. There’s no need to trawl the internet, anyway: the team can organise seasonal activities with expert guides, from wolf safaris and forest bathing to snowshoe treks and cross-country skiing. We opted for an adventure on the nearby rivers Kynna and Flisaelva with Spreke Opplevelser (Norwegian for ‘Exciting Experiences’), spending two hours gliding peacefully in a canoe, struck by the stillness, tranquillity and the absolute silence that would make any Londoner’s ears ring with confusion. 

Our knowledgeable guide, Amund Hagen Kristiansen, pointed out wildlife along the way, teaching us how to make cinnamon rolls on a campfire and talking about the importance of being active in nature. He also shared anecdotes of his brushes with polar bears in Svalbard, his (surprising) love for Leeds United and the most curious animal in Norway, the moose. His life philosophy – keeping physically fit and spending as much time outdoors as possible – is inspiring.

Credit: Andreas Kokkvoll

As we entered ‘beaverland’ – a stretch of the river known for its population of the wood-chomping rodents – we’re lucky to see a beaver casually swimming past our canoe. Pointing out gnawed trees, dams and fresh wood chip shavings before finally seeing this considerably shy creature made this experience a truly memorable part of our trip. With a 4-year-old on board, our canoe trip is in the early afternoon, but for the optimal time for wildlife spotting, book this canoe experience at dusk or dawn.

Back at the PAN cabins, there’s access to bikes with helmets and a child seat. Cycling through the forest, we spend our days whizzing along woodland trails with towering pine trees – the original Norwegian giants – chasing our tails on either side. There is something magical about cycling in nature – a sense of freedom, a sense of youth. It transports me back to my childhood, where a bicycle was my main mode of transportation and adventure my only requirement. 

Leaving the forest behind to head to a freshwater lake for a dip, we cycle along a more open landscape. Fields of wheat as far as the eye can see, cut only by the whirling sound of tractors toiling the farmland. A church and a few charming traditional yellow, white and red weather-boarded Norwegian homes are scattered sporadically across the horizon. Space is a given here. 

Credit: Even Baardseth

Christine had recommended Lake Baksjøen Badeplass as a local hidden gem worthy of a visit. Parking our bikes, we sat on the beach to admire this stunning freshwater lake hemmed by untouched forest. Its stillness created a perfect reflection of the sky and clouds across its inky, watery canvas. It was our own for the day and, before leaving at dusk, I summoned the guts to swim across after watching an older Norwegian couple do the same. Icy cold, disconcertingly still and opaque in its depth, it felt utterly thrilling.

With the sun setting, we made our way back to our cabin. As we turned the corner to the final stretch, my husband, myself and my 4-year-old suddenly found ourselves standing metres from a moose. The curious creature stood motionless, peering down at the bizarre trio at the bottom of his trail, with us in turn fixated on its huge, muscular stature. We froze for what felt like an eternity before Norway’s king of the forest leapt into the hedgerow and was gone. It was the perfect ending to our stay.

C&TH Key Notes

—When To Visit: Co-owner Christine recommends January and February, when the forest is blanketed in snow. 

—Leave the heels at home: Forest hikes, bike rides and canoe trips beg for sturdy shoes.

—Come night time: Turn off all the cabin lights, open the sliding door and wait. Little by little you’ll eyes will accustom to the darkness and thousands of stars will appear

—Make a trip to: Café Søstuen2280, also owned by Christine and Kristian, where you can enjoy a drink and bite to eat. Don’t miss the Utopia Brus rhubarb soda – simply divine. 

THE LAST WORD

There’s something otherworldly about staying at Pan treetop cabins. Pan immerses you in nature, speaks to your spirit and soothes your soul.

BOOK NOW 

Cabins start from £480 per night; panhytter.no

Hannah’s return flights to Oslo emitted 592kg CO2e. ecollectivecarbon.com