How Does A Restaurant Get Three Michelin Stars? We Asked Austrian Chef Michael Bauböck

What makes a three Michelin-starred restaurant? Around the world, just 145 restaurants have the prestigious accolade – viewed by some chefs as the pinnacle of success. There’s no formula for securing it, though: inspectors grant it to the restaurants where ‘cooking is elevated to an art form.’ In Vienna, there are just two establishments with three-star status, one being Steirereck, a cutting-edge eatery located in the city’s Stadtpark. It’s helmed by head chef Michael Bauböck, who combines tradition with innovative technique, showcasing the quality produce of the Styrian region. Jenny Jefferies hears more below.

Michael Bauböck On His Viennese Restaurant, Steirereck

Congratulations on your recent third Michelin star. What does it mean to you?

We treat this award with great respect. We are aware of our responsibility and want to convey the identity of Austrian cuisine and hospitality to the outside world and share it with the people who visit us. Among other things, it is a great drive and motivation for the entire Steirereck family to constantly question ourselves and continuously adjust and improve ourselves.

Tradition or novelty, which is more important?

To my mind a combination of both is what works best for us. Without any innovations we stagnate, this would be the worst for our creativity and our mindset. We try our very best to rethink and sometimes improve traditional dishes. But let’s be honest, an outstanding schnitzel is great as it is. We always work to be one step ahead without losing sight of our origins and our roots.

What are your favourite herbs from your rooftop garden? 

One of my most favourite herbs from our garden in Vienna is monarda bergamotte. The perfume is so floral combined with a decent touch of citrus. And right after monarda there is fennel pollen (not just a beautiful plant), as a fresh product the flavour is mind-blowing.

How do the forgotten native vegetables shine in your culinary creations? 

In most cases it is better to work as simply as possible and to have real focus on the product. The core of our dishes are light, vegetable dishes. For us it makes sense to prepare and serve vegetables consistently according to the seasons, so you are limited but also blessed by the seasons and the rhythm of external influences.

Your menu is a celebration of nature’s bounty. What is your favourite current flavour combination? 

There are so many great combinations. Again, the most fun is combining new seasonal products, the new flavours and textures that come with them. We love the variety, the power of seasons and the urge to create something new together as a team.

Who or what inspires you? 

I get a lot of inspiration from nature. Sometimes it’s the shape or structure of a leaf, sometimes it can happen that two simple but paradoxical flavours create a strange but completely new and never before tasted result. Here in the restaurant I can let my creativity run free and that’s what I love about my job.

Find out more at steirereck.at