Here’s How The London Brunch Scene Has Changed Over 20 Years

In London’s fast-moving hospitality industry, it’s heartening to see a small independent business thrive – especially one that has made it through the pandemic. Such is the case with The Table Cafe, a beloved neighbourhood brunch spot which opened its doors in Southwark exactly 20 years ago, as well as a second outpost in Battersea two years ago. To celebrate, a special Birthday Brunch Menu offers long-time fans and new visitors alike the chance to taste two The Table classics for just £20 (or one for £10). And across the birthday weekend itself (23 to 24 August), guests can enjoy happy hour priced cocktails, tasty canapes, live entertainment and a party atmosphere.

Ahead of the birthday bash, we sat down with The Table’s co-owner Venus Loudon to reflect on 20 years of serving up tasty seasonal brunch dishes, including the brunch trends of days past.

Venus Loudon, co-owner of The Table

Brunch Trends With The Table Co-Owner Venus Loudon

Hi Venus, congratulations on 20 years of The Table! Looking back to when you first opened, what were the biggest challenges you faced as an independent restaurant owner in London, and how have those challenges evolved over the past two decades?

Thank you so much, we can’t believe we’ve been going for 20 years and counting! Identity was a big challenge initially: when The Table first opened we weren’t sure what it was going to be or evolve into. Originally the plan was for the restaurant to be a staff canteen for the architectural firm next door, but we then decided to open to the public and offer salads and sandwiches, deli style. It took a while and a bit of trial and error for the concept to eventually develop into a brunch location!

Over the past two decades there have inevitably been challenges. The area of Southwark has transformed a lot over the years, and wanting to make sure that our offering stays strong in the market place has been a big one for us. Inflation over the past twenty years has been a lot for most businesses to navigate and remains a constant struggle for everyone, businesses and individuals. We constantly need to adapt and think on our feet to meet the rising costs while not lowering our standards or compromising on our ethos and principles.

The biggest challenge of all was naturally the pandemic. I think that was a very dark time for the hospitality industry, along with many others, and it really involved a lot of perseverance, confidence and changes from our side in order to pull through.

London’s restaurant scene is incredibly dynamic and fast-paced. How have you managed to maintain your unique identity and stand out in such a competitive market for 20 years?

We keep it simple. We know what we do and we do it well. We don’t try to do anything that isn’t us. It’s good food, made with love and served with a smile. People love to try new things, but they also love what they know – something that’s reliable and consistent. 

The Table is like that one sweater that you will always keep. You may buy new garments and not wear it all the time, but it’s always there and it’s always great when it’s on.

How does The Table adapt to keep customers excited?

We opened a new venue on Battersea Rise two years ago, so that was most definitely exciting and hopefully gave a new neighbourhood something to look forward to. We love hosting an array of different events and seeing what we can try our hand at. 

The past couple of years have seen anything from burlesque, comedy, dating nights and pride events to one of our personal favorites, Paws at the Table, where guests can bring their dogs over to hang out for the afternoon. We love hosting an eclectic mix of events and nothing is off the Table, quite literally!

Brunch has exploded in popularity in London over the last 20 years. When you first started, what was brunch like, and how has it transformed in terms of customer expectations and menu trends?

I think the dining scene itself has transformed dramatically in the past 20 years with the rise of influencers and social media platforms. When we first started, brunch had to primarily feature a full English, eggs benny and some form of pancakes or waffles. Now brunch as a concept has elevated, and subsequently so have people’s expectations. 

There’s also been a rise in competitors as a result. Our goal is to be accessible to everyone. We change our menu regularly and adapt accordingly. We have all of the classics and then we have some more indulgent and unique options. The menu also features lighter and healthier choices, we have a children’s menu and it’s all fully coded for those with allergies. We want to meet everyone’s expectations and be inclusive, and therefore do a lot of research and chat with our guests about what they’d enjoy or want to see from us.

What are some of the most significant brunch trends you’ve seen come and go, and which ones do you predict will continue to dominate the scene in the coming years?

Great question! Bottomless brunch has definitely come and gone. People still offer it and there’s still a demand, but nothing compared to when it first started. It tends to do better paired with an activity, rather than simply coming for that alone. 

Simple things like hash browns or tater tots will never go out of fashion. Who doesn’t like a fried potato? Please find me someone. 

Avocado toast and the numerous variations that you can do with it is now a key brunch staple and will continue to dominate the scene, along with pancakes and waffles. I think if you are a brunch venue, you have to offer some form of these items.

What prompted the decision to open a second venue in Battersea, and what was the most surprising difference between operating one restaurant versus two?

We had always flirted with the idea of opening a second, third, maybe even fourth site! After we not only survived but thrived in Southwark post pandemic, it just made sense to take the next step. It’s so rare that a business that’s been open for as long as us would suddenly decide to expand, but we don’t play by the rules and only do things when it feels right and when we know that we can put our all into it, which is what we’ve done in Battersea. 

It’s interesting opening a second site because it’s both the first and last time you’ll ever have to experience that. We made some mistakes, we learned a huge amount (hopefully for the next time!) and most importantly we realised that we can do it. It’s truly amazing having the two teams and the support that one site can lend to another; they both support each other and lift each other up when needed.

Anything you have noticed about Battersea that is different from Southwark, good or bad?

They’re completely different – aesthetically and operationally! While we have the key brand alignment and want people to know that they’re part of the same family, Battersea is vast inside and consists of lots of lounge style, laid back seating. 

Half of our Southwark restaurant is outside and the layout lends itself more to quick paced, convenience dining while being a great meet up destination for people to connect pre or post other activities. 

We also have an incredible evening offering in Battersea, with Southwark opening from 8am to 4pm daily as there’s no demand for us to be open in the evening in that area. They both have their pros and cons.

Any super popular dishes that might surprise us?

We’ve recently added a couple! There’s a tiramisu dish that guests can choose to have on a pancake or a waffle, and our banana bread is new and the chef’s recipe is sublime. People might not expect that from us. 

There’s also an incredibly indulgent dish that works beautifully – Baron Bigod cheese melted on your choice of a pancake or a waffle, served with maple syrup and crispy bacon. It was a special for Pancake Day but it made the regular menu because the feedback was so good.

Personal favourite dish on The Table’s menu?

I am a classic kinda gal! I love Eggs Royale, but my number one has to be the Full English. The ingredients are top quality, the portion size is super generous and the seasoning is perfect. Just as well, really!

You can find The Table is Southwark (83 Southwark St, London SE1 0HX) and Battersea (35-37 Battersea Rise, London SW11 1HG). The Birthday Brunch Menu is available all day everyday throughout August.

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