‘We never left boho behind’: What To Expect From Temperley London’s SS25 Collection
By
3 weeks ago
Alice Temperley talks inspirations, ideas and innovations
It’s the first day of London Fashion Week, and our first stop takes us to a busy pop-up showroom near Hyde Park. The set-up is unmistakably Temperley London: on the rails are gowns decorated with multi-coloured sequins and embroidered florals, while models stride across the room in a floaty cloud of sheer ruffles. This is Alice Temperley MBE’s bohemian paradise, and we’re just living in it. ‘We never left boho behind,’ she tells C&TH. ‘It never left us, either.’ Amongst the hustle and bustle of the showroom, we sit down with the Temperley London founder as she runs us through her SS25 collection, wholesale plans and upcoming product passport IDs.
Alice Temperley On Her Upcoming SS25 Collection
Hi Alice, how’s it going? Congrats on the new collection!
Thank you!
I’m honestly feeling quite tired – excited, but tired – even though it’s only really just starting. It’s such an exciting moment to have both the White Label and the Black Label in the showroom together, especially with people coming in. Lots of talking, lots of excitement. There’s been a lot of work to get here.
I’m looking forward to a really good night’s sleep, and then it’s off to Milan.
Can you give us a bit of an intro to your SS25 collection?
So, all the campaign imagery was shot at The Newt in Somerset. Looks one to 22 form our White Label, our ready-to-wear line, and here we’re bringing back back denim, day tailoring, lots of layered knitwear (which is my favourite to have to say), cut out separates and some fun, romantic themes.
From look 23 onwards, we have eveningwear – the Black Label. These are things that are hand-embroidered, embellished, feature beautiful printed foil, silk, velvet, Italian jacquard. All the things that are a bit more, and aren’t really ready-to-wear.
The labels are really to show people the different values of day and night dressing. We’ll be taking them to wholesale soon – and this will be our first time doing that since before Covid.
It sounds like a lot of thought and planning has gone into this collection.
It has been a lot of work, but it’s very exciting. We have also had new members of the team, as well as new suppliers. It’s been a period of growth. All these things are why I’m like, ‘Thank God, this collection is finished.’ [laughs]
It’s been a roller coaster to get it done. I think when you actually look at the scale of the collection, you do realise how much work has gone into it: the sourcing, patterns, dyeing, printing, embroidery, fittings and even the meaning behind it all. It really reflects the labour that’s gone into it. Bits of madness, really.
What story did you want to tell with SS25?
It all stemmed from a sourcing trip in Barcelona. It ended up being an unexpected inspiration trip, that one. We were visiting a supplier there, and ended up looking around the city and just found it incredible. Everything looked incredible. We were really inspired by the architecture. The cut-outs in this collection, for example, were inspired by ceiling tiles – but we also really loved the art nouveau florals and vines.
And were there any other ideas you wanted to explore?
I just wanted to do lots of matching separates and layers of knitwear. We’re also giving more space to the Temperley logo this season, as well as relaxed patterns like the stripe. It’s a play on the beginning of the ready-to-wear collection – fun logos, weaves, fabrics – and we’ll see a lot more of it next season, too. And from look 22 down it becomes a lot more dramatic. The difference will be even more obvious next season. This one’s really just getting going with more tailored shapes, more knitwear, more comfort.
What does the Temperley woman look and feel like this season?
She’s fiesta and fun and travel and decadence, but in a very relaxed way. She just cool and effortless. This is a collection that’s meant to feel decadent, but it’s also playful and super casual.
Even the eveningwear, to an extent; we put them with flats and drape big kimonos over the top. The dresses aren’t super long or too formal. It definitely feels younger. It’s sexy.
Any standout looks or details?
The knits, the stipes – but also the classic dresses. There are lots of different silhouettes in this collection, and they’re all really, really wearable. And my test of the collection is like, ‘OK, what would I wear and what would I order?’ And there is a lot in this collection – as there was in winter, but there’s more in this one. And I’m hoping with the next one there is going to be even more.
We’re offering some new silhouettes and moods. I’ve been really thinking about what we really want as a label, rather than trying to cater to other markets. It’s just got a personality, and it’s on brand and fun.
Tell us about your new passport IDs.
Something we’re really excited for is our new product passport ID. It will validate any item in our collection. You have a QR code that comes with the product, and when you scan it it will tell you where the garment was made, its carbon footprint and the story of the fabric. It will also give you an NFT, which is a 3D rendering of the item, and then it will also help trace the item through the secondary market. That’s something that is incredibly clever. It’s an app, which will be ready when when this collection is delivered. It’s an incredibly exciting bit of tech that my team has done.
What excites you most about this time of year?
London Fashion Week usually coincides with that time of year that feels like a point of transformation. People come back from their holidays, they dress and take interest in what they’re wearing again. The change in season always comes with a change in wardrobe, a change in look. I also personally love wearing winter collections, so I’m really into this time of year.
We hear boho chic is making a big return this season.
You’re the third person to say that to me today! It never left. We never left boho behind.
Anything exciting in the pipeline? (That you can tell us about!)
We’re about to open a new store on Sloane Street in October. It will sit across two floors, and it will have our ready-to-wear collection as well as a whole amazing little space downstairs for bridal and evening. There’s going to be a 1920s cocktail bar, too. We’re hoping it will feel like you’re really stepping into a fantasy wonderland, where you can feel a bit of our world again.
We just hope that that is a really nice turning point, since we’re going into wholesale again. We went quiet for a bit, but we’re ready to be here and be present again.
Images courtesy of Temperley London