Varsity Rules: How Menswear Got Its Prep Back

Varsity – the look born on Ivy League campuses on the US East Coast – has simmered as a popular school of menswear since it rose to prominence in the 1950s. Now it has come full circle with a major resurgence in a new class – one that respects established collegiate codes but blends them with a kind of dissidence more likely to land you in hot water at the Dean’s office.

Menswear Is Getting The Varsity Treatment

The style of dress, defined by public school staples like rugby shirts, boating blazers, penny loafers and patched jackets, was once the preserve of the educated – and served as a identifier for those that belonged to this elite club. Now designers are turning this symbolism on its head. ‘The way it is being reinterpreted now feels more relaxed and personal,’ says Daniel Kearns, chief creative officer of Kent & Curwen, a British heritage brand with collegiate codes woven into its design DNA. ‘There’s a growing appetite for clothes that carry heritage and meaning, but don’t feel rigid or overly polished.’

Too-cool-for-school US labels, Aimé Leon Dore and Kith, which blend classic varsity with streetwear and outdoorsy Gorpcore, are prime examples of brands skewing its conventional image, giving the one-time uniform of privilege a grittier, sexier appeal.

Kith has a streetwear take on classic varsity

Andreas von der Heide, co-founder of Les Deux, which combines Ivy design with sportswear (and specifically basketball kit) also concedes that varsity’s multifaceted nature has ensured its continued presence in the menswear canon – and its evolution. ‘It’s gone from freshman to everyman, from being a fixed identity to a code that’s more open,’ observes von der Heide. ‘Part of what makes that possible is that varsity draws on contrasts. It’s preppy, but also sporty. It can be technical in nylon; richer when it’s done in leather and wool; classic in heritage weaves like herringbone; and even a little workwear-leaning in corduroy. This versatility suits the way guys dress now.’

Kent & Curwen is also reworking Ivy League for a new generation of sartorially fluent men. ‘For SS26, we looked at the Royal Parks as a meeting point where sport, leisure, elegance and everyday life intersect. That idea naturally lent itself to blending classic varsity references with softer tailoring, technical sportswear and more expressive elements,’ says Kearns. ‘It’s not about dressing for a single identity, but allowing yourself to express multiple parts of you.’

US brand J.Press is bringing the genre back to its roots

Even Paris powerhouses Dior and Louis Vuitton have taken lessons from the Ivy exercise book. Vuitton’s pre-fall SS26 collection blends penny loafers and navy blazers with luxe leather accessories and stripy polo knits, while Jonathan Anderson’s first collection for Dior features tweed blazers, striped Oxford shirts and regimental ties paired with hi-tops and baggy skater denim.

With this blending of genres, the way we wear varsity gear has shifted on its axis too. Instead of looking like an extra in Dead Poet’s Society, it’s about mixing opposing elements. ‘It’s less about head-to-toe styling and more about integrating one or two varsity pieces into an everyday wardrobe,’ says Kearns. ‘Pair something recognisably varsity with pieces that feel unexpected, such as a classic rugby shirt with technical trousers and modern footwear. Above a certain age, of course, there’s the risk of looking like an overgrown freshman if you get it wrong. ‘If you’re north of 30, I’d avoid mixing a sporty varsity jacket with jersey joggers and trainers. Varsity works best when it’s grounded in maturity,’ says von der Heide.

Kent & Curwen’s Ivy style features tailoring and technical sportswear

Conversely, for Jack Carlson – creative director of US heritage Ivy League brand J.Press, which was founded at Yale in 1902 – preserving the bona fide blueprint of varsity, and keeping tradition alive in our age of generic mass-production, is part of its resurgence. ‘My goal is to get back to the most authentic version of Ivy style. Today, that kind of authenticity is the “fresh spin”. True Ivy style has been watered down over the years; production has largely moved away from traditional makers; styles have become more generic,’ explains Carlson. ‘We work with master craftsmen and make in very old workshops in New York, Massachusetts, Pennsylvania, the UK, Canada and Norway. We are stewards of this aesthetic.’ Carlson advises avoiding skinny fits, wearing an item that adds a flash of colour, and sticking to the classics: ‘Most real Ivy League staples are among the most versatile pieces of clothing a man can own: a blue and white Oxford shirt, a navy blazer, a great pair of khakis.’

Despite this newfound expression in the genre, perhaps varsity’s prevailing influence on menswear is emotional – in times of turmoil, we seek what is comforting. And maybe the carefree days of college life – and the notion the world is your oyster – is part of the draw. ‘A varsity jacket represents effort and ambition. It has a story. And for me, that’s the difference between the clothes you wear and the clothes you keep,’ says von der Heide. Perhaps it’s time we went back to class – just don’t forget to unbutton your uniform.