We Tried Cellcosmet’s New Wonder Duo – Here’s Our Report

Did you know that pigmentation disorders rank as the third most common dermatological condition, affecting all skin types? Millions of us worldwide are prone to pesky brown spots caused by the overproduction of melanin – this can be due to myriad reasons, ranging from sun exposure and hormonal changes to ageing and genetic factors. Swiss cellular cosmetics innovator Cellcosmet has developed two breakthrough skin brighteners – the Ultra Brightening Elasto-Collagen-XT serum and Brightener-XT cellular cream – to target the root causes of pigmentation and deliver immediate brightness and more even-toned skin.

C&TH Beauty Lab: Cellcosmet Ultra Brightening Elasto-Collagen-XT & Brightener-XT

The Product

The two complementary formulas contain bioactive ingredients that work together to prevent pigment formation and block its transfer to the skin’s surface by interrupting the production pathways. It’s a sophisticated biological process that not only addresses melanogenesis (slowing down melanin production) but melanin transfer, preventing it from reaching keratinocytes (skin cells) in the epidermis. It also targets pigment oxidation that occurs after sun exposure and offers immediate brightening effects.

Both products contain Cellcosmet’s proprietary Cytopep™ complex, a super blend of more than 5000 peptides, enzymes and amino acids that help rejuvenate the skin. ‘We wanted to go beyond the usual brightening actives like vitamin C or niacinamide,’ explains chief scientific officer Dr Jeremie Soeur. ‘By combining seven complementary ingredients – including pea extract, yeast concentrate and phosphinic acid – our formulas act at multiple stages of the pigmentation process. This holistic scientific approach allows us to achieve more complete, visible and lasting results, while fully respecting the skin’s balance.’

Cellcosmet Ultra Brightening XT Ampoule

The foundation step is the multitasking serum, which comes in a box of 12 vials, each one packed with a high dose of stabilised cellular extracts (15 percent). Clinically proven benefits include immediate and long-lasting hydration, improved skin tone and texture, reduced appearance of dark spots and discoloration, enhanced skin elasticity and firmness, as well as antioxidant protection against environmental damage. The serum’s broad-spectrum approach makes it particularly effective against post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma and pigmentary disorders from acne.

The Brightener-XT emulsion contains 96 percent natural-origin ingredients, combining high concentrations of powerful actives to effectively target hyperpigmentation. These include biomimetic peptide (inspired by green tea), oil soluble vitamin C, citrus fruit extracts (antioxidant properties), yarrow extract (antioxidant and skin-soothing benefits), pea extract (inhibits melanosome maturation), phospinic acid (tyrosinase inhibitor) and phytoglycogen (helps to shed darkened cells). It prevents new dark spot formation while strengthening the skin barrier and providing antioxidant protection.

The Clinical Bit

Both products have undergone rigorous independent clinical testing, including instrumental measurement and dermatological evaluations. A study of 22 women aged 30 to 61, applying the serum morning and night, found a 48.3 percent increase in radiance and 52.5 percent boost in hydration after just the first application. After 56 days of use, results showed a 5.2 percent reduction in dark spots, 18.3 percent increase in visible brightening, 24.2 percent improvement in hydration and 8.8 percent boost in skin firmness. Clinical tests on a sample group of 22 women aged 25 to 65, using the Brightener-XT cream morning and evening for 56 days, found 73 percent of participants saw significant improvement in complexion evenness while 59 percent reported significant improvement in skin brightness.

The Test Drive

You’ll feel a bit like a scientist administering the serum from tiny test tube-like ampules. They proved fiddly to open, so I used my teeth to remove the caps, before applying half a vial in the morning and the rest of the amber-coloured fluid in the evening. I found a little went a long way, which meant there was enough to generously massage into my décolleté (which often gets overlooked when it comes to skincare) as well as face and neck. I liked the ritual of using synergistic products and was diligent in applying the emulsion afterwards. Both products benefit from a silky texture, which feels weightless on the skin and absorbs quickly, giving instant hydration and plumpness.

I had high hopes for this powerhouse pair in tackling my stubborn brown spots (largely age-related and from too much direct sun exposure growing up in Australia). I polished off two boxes of the serum, and while I didn’t notice a significant reduction in pigmentation after the first 12 days, I was delighted to see an improvement after the second. Two penny-size spots that have plagued my cheeks for years have noticeably faded and my complexion is more uniformly even and brighter – a bonus at this particularly dreary time of year! Of course, I now need to be extra vigilant in using UVA-UVB protection.

The Verdict

More than 40 years of scientific know-how have gone into creating Cellcosmet products, so you can be confident that not only do they meet pharmaceutical industry standards, but they also work. I was lucky enough to be given a tour of the company’s new state-of-the-art headquarters in the Swiss municipality of Châtel-Saint-Denis, where everything from R&D and formulation to manufacturing and distribution is handled. Quality control is paramount, which is why the brand launches only one or two products a year. All are made with the finest ingredients, mostly of natural origin and at high concentrations, ensuring they meet the precise needs of each skin type. They are also free from parabens, silicones, microplastics or chemical dyes.

Naturally, such cutting-edge science comes at a cost. I could have happily carried on dousing my skin in the silky serum, but at nearly £23 per vial, that wasn’t going to be financially viable (excuse the pun). For persistent dark spots, the brand recommends a two-month course, followed by maintenance top-ups throughout the year. The Brightening cream can be used all year round.

Still, I’m delighted with the results after less than a month of consistent use – and my winter glow has finally arrived.

SHOP

Ultra Brightening Elasto-Collagen-XT (12 x 1.5ml) is £310, and the Brightener-XT (50ml) is £295. harrods.com; johnbellcroydon.com