How WAR’s Hair & Makeup Designer Created Sienna Miller’s Courtroom Glow

Courtroom dramas aren’t usually where we look for beauty inspiration, but WAR might just change that. The new series takes us inside the top tier of London’s legal world, where an explosive, multi-million-dollar divorce battle between international film star Carla Duval (Sienna Miller) and wealthy tech entrepreneur Morgan Henderson (Dominic West) takes centre stage. But between every tense legal debate and sneaky encounter, our eyes are drawn to the show’s killer hair and makeup. (We blame Sienna Miller.) Behind every look on WAR is Tara McDonald, who worked as the show’s hair and makeup designer for season 1 and the freshly confirmed season 2. Here, she tells us how she approached Carla’s days in court, painting tattoos for Celia Imrie, and what made it into Sienna Miller’s makeup bag.

Tara McDonald On The Hair & Makeup Of WAR

Hi Tara, how are things going?

Everything is great, thank you. I’m enjoying a long-deserved rest after working solidly on two seasons of WAR back to back for a whole year.

WAR is now on screens, with episodes dropping weekly – what can audiences expect from the show?

It’s sleek. It’s seductive. It’s scandalous and fabulously British – a glorious collision of old money, modern ambition and immaculate taste. I think WAR is a deliciously ruthless legal drama and every detail feels effortlessly expensive. There is so much to enjoy in the show: the exquisite tailoring and costumes, moody London interiors, razor-sharp dialogue and, hopefully, the hair and makeup.

Dominic West as Morgan Henderson and Sienna Miller as Carla Duval in WAR (c) Sky/HBO

What drew you to the show, and how does it differ from previous projects you’ve worked on?

I had worked with the director [Ben Taylor] before, which was a lovely starting point. And as soon as I read the scripts I was so drawn to the world that this story is set in. It was also to be shot in London, which is always a treat.

It was an opportunity to be a part of the process of creating a world of wealthy, beautiful people with money, power and privilege. From a hair and makeup perspective it was a dream really, as there was so much scope to play with that sense of luxury and glamour. I enjoy the kind of attention to detail where everything looks effortless but actually a lot of thought has gone into it.

Every project is different, but what I particularly loved about WAR was being able to explore that glamorous, wealthy world while still keeping the characters believable and real. It’s not just about making everyone look beautiful, it’s about creating looks that tell you something about who they are and the world they inhabit.

Where did you seek out inspiration? Did you make any mood boards?

A lot of my inspiration came from researching the legal world and the people who work within it, particularly those at the very top of their profession. I was interested in how people with considerable wealth and status present themselves and how that translates into their hair, makeup and overall appearance.

There’s often a certain understated luxury to that world, where everything is beautifully maintained and considered but not necessarily obvious or overdone. I wanted to explore that balance of power, wealth and professionalism while still making sure each character had their own identity.

I created mood boards during prep, pulling together references from the legal world, luxury magazines, fashion and real people. These helped establish the feel of each character, and the looks naturally developed through conversations with the director, actors and costume department. It was important to me that the hair and makeup felt authentic to the world they lived in, with those little details that quietly suggest someone’s lifestyle, personality and status.

Celia Imrie as Joy ‘Budgie’ Budge, Sienna Miller as Carla Duval and Antonia Salib as Lucy Costigan in WAR (c) Sky/HBO

Was there room for collaboration with the other departments, as well as the cast?

Absolutely. I worked very closely with the director and the costume department to ensure that we were all working towards the same vision, and that the hair and makeup complemented the overall look and feel of the production. Ultimately it’s about finding the right balance between the creative vision, the actors’ interpretations and the overall storytelling.

Let’s talk about Carla (Sienna Miller). How would you describe her?

Carla is a fascinating character because there are so many layers to her. She’s an international movie star, incredibly glamorous, strong-willed and very aware of how she’s perceived. There’s a real confidence about her, but underneath that polished exterior there’s also a vulnerability, particularly as the show progresses. We say she has two looks: an ‘on-duty’ and ‘off-duty’ look.

For her ‘on-duty’ look we wanted her to feel very polished, glamorous and in control. She’s someone who’s used to being in the public eye, so there’s a sense of ‘putting her face on’. We kept her skin radiant and fresh but with a little more definition around the eyes, contouring and highlighting her cheeks. There was more colour in her lips too. Hair was always immaculate, whether it was a fresh blow-dry or hair up. I wanted everything to feel considered but without ever looking too overdone.

For her ‘off-duty’ look, particularly at home, we wanted to strip all of that back. The makeup becomes much softer, almost a no-makeup makeup look, and her hair feels more relaxed and lived-in. It’s a much more intimate side of her, where we get glimpses of the woman behind the public persona.

For me, the important thing was that both looks felt believable. Even when Carla is at her most vulnerable there’s still an effortless elegance about her. She’s not someone who ever really loses that sense of style.

Sienna Miller as Carla Duval in WAR (c) Sky/HBO

And what was it like working with Sienna Miller?

Sienna has such an effortless, natural beauty and we really wanted to embrace that rather than completely transform her. There was something lovely about allowing a little of that signature Sienna style to come through while still making Carla feel like her own person.

Did you have a specific formula for creating Carla’s ‘courtroom glow’?

We had numerous conversations about the direction for Carla’s courtroom look. Should we give her the polished glamour of a red-carpet appearance, or strip everything back to reveal her more vulnerable side?

Finally, we settled on the real Carla, without the usual polish that comes with being in the public eye. We wanted her look to feel effortless and understated, allowing her natural beauty to shine through. Her skin was fresh and luminous rather than heavily made up. It was enhanced, not concealed.

There’s something powerful about that simplicity. In the courtroom, Carla isn’t there as a Hollywood star; she’s there as a woman going through an incredibly personal experience. Her hair and makeup needed to reflect that honesty and vulnerability while retaining the effortless elegance that’s central to her character.

Sienna Miller as Carla Duval in WAR (c) Sky/HBO

Which products would we find in Carla’s hair and makeup bag – and why?

Skin prep: Chantecaille Eau de Rose de Mai Pure Rose Water spritz, followed by the 111SKIN Rose Gold Brightening Facial Treatment Mask, as it always left her with the most incredible glow. I would then apply Dr Ivy Regenerative Exosome Serum, followed by the Dr Ivy Exosome Face Cream, which is super light yet deeply hydrating.

Base: I liked to use RMS Beauty UnCoverup mixed with a drop or two of Chantecaille Sheer Glow Rose Face Tint for a lit-from-within glow. Sienna has great skin and I wanted her natural skin to be visible.

Cheeks: Chantecaille Cheek Gelée in Happy gave a beautiful sheer flush to the cheeks.

Highlighter: RMS Beauty Luminizer in Living.

Mascara: Hourglass Unlocked in Espresso for day. Brown was softer and worked perfectly with her blue eyes. Lashify false lashes for events.

Eyeshadow: Victoria Beckham Eye Wardrobe in Bordeaux. This colour really made her blue eyes pop.

Eyeliner: Victoria Beckham Kajal in Bordeaux or Lisa Eldridge Seamless Glide Eye Pencil in Burnt Umber. On occasion the Victoria Beckham Instant Brightening Waterline Pencil was required. This would immediately neutralise any redness and make the eyes appear bright and fresh.

Lips: Mostly MAC Lip Pencil in Whirl, sometimes the Charlotte Tilbury Lip Cheat Contour Duo in Medium. I always used Chantecaille Rose Balm Lip Tint, and sometimes I would apply Chantecaille Lip Chic in Patience on top if Sienna required a pop more colour. For the premiere look, I used MAC Ruby Woo mixed with Chanel Rouge Allure L’Extrait in 854, with MAC Lip Pencil in Redd.

Hair: For her hair prep I used Oribe Invisible Defense Universal Protection Spray. We regularly used hot tools, so this first step was very important. I love to use Shu Uemura Essence Absolue Oil after to smooth the flyaway hairs and get that lustrous appearance. For the last step I would use Sam McKnight Cool Girl Barely There Texture Mist to get that ‘done, undone’ look.

Celia Imrie as Joy ‘Budgie’ Budge in WAR (c) Sky/HBO

Were any other characters a highlight for you?

Celia Imrie’s character was a real joy to design. She had a great backstory in her mind. She told me that Budgie was very mischievous, and she wanted a tattoo on her forearm – she suggested a dragon. I designed a water dragon inspired by her Chinese zodiac birth year. Sadly we only caught a very quick glance of it in episode seven, but it was there.

We coloured her hair a vivid red and chose bright red lips to match. Unusual for a barrister maybe, but it felt right somehow, as Budgie was a large character full of joie de vivre.

Were there any creative challenges during this project?

One of the main creative challenges was establishing a clear visual distinction between the two rival law firms. Cathcarts represented the traditional British legal establishment. Hair and makeup was required to be classic, neat and controlled. Everything was understated to reflect the firm’s formality, heritage and established hierarchy. In contrast, Taylor & Byrne had a younger, more modern and forward-thinking identity. The hair and makeup allowed for greater individuality, with more contemporary hairstyles, current makeup trends and personalised looks that reflected the characters’ progressive attitudes.

Sienna Miller as Carla Duval in WAR (c) Sky/HBO

Any fun behind-the-scenes stories you can share?

What I can tell you is that this cast was so much fun. Each one could not have been further from the characters they played, which made it even more entertaining to watch them switch into character the moment the cameras started rolling.

Are there any particular details or looks you’re excited for audiences to see?

I think what I’m most excited for audiences to see is how subtly the hair and makeup helps tell the story. There aren’t necessarily any big transformations or statement looks, but that was always our intention. We wanted everything to feel authentic, believable and true to each character.

What I particularly love is the contrast between the characters’ public and private lives. There are moments when they’re beautifully polished and completely in control of how they present themselves, but then we see them in much more intimate or vulnerable situations where that polished exterior begins to fall away. It’s those subtle transitions that I find really interesting from a hair and makeup perspective. Sometimes the smallest details can say so much about where a character is emotionally without the audience even consciously noticing them.

Ultimately, I hope people become so immersed in the characters and their stories that they almost forget about the hair and makeup altogether. For me, that’s when you know you’ve got it right.

WATCH

Episodes of WAR drop weekly on Sky and NOW.