(Pink) Diamonds Are Forever: Boodles On Its First Pink Ashoka
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2 days ago
The British jeweller is marking a major design milestone
Founded in Liverpool in 1798, Boodles has long been known for its craftsmanship and remarkable stones. The house has since become recognised for its Ashoka diamonds and rare pink gemstones. And now, for the first time, the two come together in a single jewel. With a three-carat baby pink Ashoka diamond – sourced via fellow family jewellers William Goldberg in New York – and set with Argyle pinks, the finished ring certainly shines bright.
Below, we chat to Jody Wainwright, Managing Director of Boodles, about the journey of the precious jewel and what it means for the house.
Jody Wainwright On Boodles’ First Ashoka First Pink Ashoka
How rare is it to find a pink diamond suited to the Ashoka cut?
Extremely rare. In our 26 years of working with the Ashoka cut, I have never seen a stone like this. Given the rarity of pink diamonds, coupled with the rarity of finding stones suitable for the Ashoka – one of the most precise and technically challenging cuts in the world – very few Ashokas produced each year. That makes this acquisition particularly extraordinary.
The Ashoka is known for its technical demands. What makes this cut so exacting, and why was it right for this stone?
In this instance the stone appears up to a third bigger than it would in an emerald cut, which is why the Ashoka cut is so appealing. By using the Ashoka cut, it emphasises both the colour and the size of the stone, combining the vivacity of a round brilliant cut with the sleek elegance of an emerald cut – making this stone a true showstopper. To find a pink diamond of this quality and calibre is incredibly rare but to find one suited to the Ashoka cut is rarer still.
Can you describe the journey from South Africa to Fifth Avenue – and ultimately to Boodles?
The Goldberg team has a buyer on the ground in South Africa who is always looking for stones with the potential to be cut as Ashoka diamonds. In this instance, the rough was a beautiful, nearly nine-carat pink diamond. This piece of rough was especially exciting – a proper, vivid pink of exceptional quality. Goldberg were thrilled that it was a longer stone, suitable for an Ashoka, which is an extremely rare prospect for a pink diamond of this size and quality. The stone was cut in Goldberg’s workshop on Fifth Avenue, and the result was a pink Ashoka diamond – certificated 3.02 carats, fancy light pink, internally flawless and truly extraordinary.
Given the colour and rarity, Goldberg inevitably felt it would be perfect for Boodles. I went on a stone-buying trip to New York in July, saw the stone and purchased it then and there.
How important was it to source this piece from a fellow family house like Goldberg?
We have been working with the Goldbergs for 26 years and have an immensely friendly relationship with them. It’s always a pleasure to work with a fellow family business – we share values, and we can act decisively and quickly when something exciting arises. Having worked together for generations, Goldberg knows exactly what we’re looking for – and to pick up the phone when a really special stone comes along.
Why did you decide to present it as a ring rather than another piece of jewellery?
This stone is so exceptional that it deserves to be the star of a single, standalone piece. A ring felt like the most natural and fitting way to showcase it – a jewel that can be worn and admired by the wearer every day, and one that puts the Ashoka pink centre stage.
What do the Argyle pinks add to the central Ashoka?
Argyle pinks are some of the rarest stones in the world. It still amazes me that even at peak production the number of exceptional stones produced each year could fit in the palm of a hand. Boodles are fortunate to have a special relationship with Rio Tinto, giving us exclusive access to the remaining pink diamonds from the Argyle mine, which closed in 2020.
Not only are they an investment stone – their value increasing 10 to 15 percent year on year – but they are also incredibly beautiful. The 16 Argyle pink diamonds are a deeper pink than the Ashoka, and by setting them in rose gold they add a warmth that contrasts beautifully with the sharp precision of the Ashoka.
Boodles has a reputation for both Ashokas and pinks – what does bringing the two together say about the house at this moment?
It’s a huge and incredibly exciting moment. Given we have worked with the Ashoka cut for 26 years and have never owned a pink Ashoka, this truly is a once-in-a-lifetime stone. With our speciality in pink diamonds and our exclusive rights to the Ashoka cut in the UK, bringing the two together feels particularly fitting – especially with the vibrant Argyle pinks surrounding the central stone. It really combines our two specialities: pinks and Ashokas.
Do you see this as a singular treasure, or could it lead to more pieces in this vein?
While I would love to see another stone like this again, it feels unlikely. The pink diamond story is sadly coming to an end, given there have been no reliable new sources since the closure of the Argyle Mine. That makes every pink diamond a singular treasure – but even more so one cut as an Ashoka.
Who do you picture wearing this ring?
This is a standalone piece, so supremely unique and dazzling. I have a few people in mind, and I shall be wandering around our Christmas shows in a few weeks with it hidden on my finger until the right moment pops up.
