Where To Stay & What To Do In Guatemala

After 10 days in Guatemala, the first thing I asked myself was: ‘why doesn’t anybody come here?’ 

For years this Central American beauty was often only visited by Americans in the know or fleeting backpackers, and as a result it has not fallen victim to the misfortunes of overtourism seen elsewhere in this part of the world. ‘Authenticity’ is an overused word in travel journalism nowadays – not here, though. Guatemala is a world of vast and unexplored jungles, booming active volcanoes, exquisite beaches and a patchwork of hilltop villages and lost worlds.

The epicentre of Mayan culture and civilisation, the country’s medley of ancient sights and natural wonders will leave your mind boggled. Tikal is the crown jewel, and amongst the dense flora and ancient trees, the remnants of crumbling civilisations still stand untouched by modern hands. Then there are the cities: Antigua, Chichicastenango and Guatemala City – a salmagundi of traditions, customs and cultures. Pair Spanish colonial architecture with the mysticism of Lake Atitlan and you’ll also come face-to-face with a blend of designer cred which oozes style with old- and new-world historicism, and effortlessly too.

Here’s our definitive guide to Guatemala, from the best places to stay and explore to where to eat. 

The C&TH Guide To Guatemala

STAY

Casa Palopó – Lake Atitlan

More private residence than inn, Casa Palopó is perhaps one of the most beautiful boutique hotels in Central America. An ode to mid-century architectural romanticism, there’s a mish mash of high society splendour here thanks to its endless cabinets of curiosities and vintage totems. Look around Casa Palopó’s brilliant dark blue walls and everything from playful masks to impressionist paintings dazzle the senses. The rooms and suites are equally as visually abundant. Portraits of the Madonna and Child hang over the beds, while cushty couches, trunks and a desk topped with a French press add to the designer details. Timber is a main feature, as are nick nack lake throws and intricate blankets sewn by local communities. Balcony rooms don the best volcano views and, come sunrise, solace from the noise of the outside world. As for the food and drink, head lakeside for grilled meats galore at restaurant Kinnik and finish off with a fiery margarita on Casa Palopó’s candlelit rooftop balcony. 

BOOK IT

Villa Bokeh – Antigua

When you first pop into this hacienda you will be confronted by the vision you least expected: a touch of Italy in central America. The landscaped gardens and scattering of nude cherub sculptures gives a whiff of European eccentricity, but thanks to the mighty Agua volcano in the background, Villa Bokeh’s dramatic sense of place remains intact. Set on the outskirts of Antigua’s cobblestones, this hotel is a vision of white parasols and manicured gardens with a slick pool to match. Guatemalan textiles are a permanent fixture, many of them framed in the suites and in the hacienda’s main living areas. Despite being more than a century old, all the rooms are modern and most come with private balconies or ground floor firepits. Thanks to the eyes of its owner Claudia Bosch, the details are immaculate. Each space has made-to-measure Guatemalan artworks, ranging from portraits by photographer Mitchell Denburg to tapestries curated by native textile expert, Violeta Gutiérrez Caxaj. Food? There’s an exceptional emphasis on Mayan traditions thanks to executive chef Marco Saenz. All the ingredients are seasonal and nuanced, and follow ancient traditions spun with twists for modern palettes. 

BOOK IT

El Convento Boutique Hotel – Antigua

Small and cushty, the major perk of staying at El Convento Boutique Hotel is its location slap bang in the centre of the UNESCO-listed heart of Antigua. The prime slab of real estate is more folly than it is convent and was built, as the discreet owners say, to ‘mirror the city’s colonial past’. Intimate and cosy, there are only 26 rooms and suites spread over the main courtyard flecked by trees, native plants and flowers. Décor is muted and simple throughout, accented by mahogany touches that slither throughout all the minute design details: wood-carved desks, beds and mid-century-style furniture. It’s a bit creaky walking from the bedside cabinet to the bathroom, but that’s part of this boutique hotel’s charm. In the middle of it all, you will also find a small pool where most gather to laze, bathe and read a book. Dinner is served at Sitz, either in the restaurant or on the rooftop terrace by the log fire. Expect slow-cooked meaty classics from tamales to Pepián and tacos. 

BOOK IT

VISIT

Volcán de Fuego

It might surprise you, but some daredevils actually climb up this active volcano and sleep on its precipice overnight. Crazy? Yes, but the world’s adrenaline junkies don’t seem to mind being scorched by luminously hot lava in what locals dub ‘the death zone’. Most, including myself, opt for the safer option: an early morning hike up Volcán Acatenango, the equally monstrous yet dormant fire beast that sits opposite its raging molten neighbour. Overnight hikes start early, often with a midnight wakeup call at your hotel in Antigua. Some do the full six hour hike up to the volcano’s summit, but if you are pressed for time, select tours will drive you up most of the way (warning: it’s bumpy) before you hike up to basecamp. The volcano burps fire and lava throughout the night (often the best time to see it) and throughout the day during spectacular eruptions. Sunrise is also a spectacle, as is the climb down over scattered villages and through wildflowers.

Tip: This excursion is not easy. If you are doing the full hike to the summit, do not go unprepared. Pack plenty of layers, as well as thick socks and gloves, waterproof hiking trousers and boots.

Lake Atitlán

Often dubbed one of the country’s most visually stunning spots, Lake Atitlán is where most head to for an education in all things Guatemalan culture. The ancient crater, formed roughly 84,000 years ago during ancient volcanic eruptions, has an air of witchcraft about it. From sunrise to sunset, its colours change from blue to green to turquoise, mimicking the shades of the surrounding peaks year-round. 

Several small villages dot the lakeshore. Party people head to San Pedro La Laguna (the most touristy village), while those interested in meditation and yoga will love the quieter San Marcos La Laguna or the even sleepier Santa Catarina Palopó. The main order of play is simply chilling by the lake and visiting the odd market, but if you really want to experience local culture, get a guide. The more in-tune with the traditions of the lake they are, the better. Many Mayan ceremonies take place here, so if you are with the right person, you’ll see an offering to Mayan ancestors (minus the tourists) on or around the lake, or up near one of the waterfalls that cascade into it. 

To see what local life is really like, head up the mountains to the hilltop village of Sololá. The main market is where Mayans rustle up traditional foods, sweets and cakes and, depending on the month, parades are common celebrating patron saints.

Tip: Always ask before you take photos, especially during Mayan ceremonies. Strike up a conversation and you will find the locals to be far more receptive to teaching you about their customs and traditions.

Chichicastenango

‘ChiChi’, as it’s known to locals, is where most rush to get a dose of Mayan traditions. A riot of colour and buzz, Chichicastenango was once the main trading centre of the Quiché region before the Spanish conquistadors arrived in 1524. Despite the historical shift, the city still remains an important centre for local trade between all walks of Guatemalan life. While touristy in parts, it’s a maze of wildly busy market stalls (be prepared to haggle) that serve up everything from spices to wild fruits and chickens to miniature pigs. Carved masks and an intricate display of textiles also draw in crowds. The traditional huipil blouses that all the indigenous women weave and wear are particular highlights, but do make sure you shop around to find the genuine collections as imports have found their way onto the market stalls. 

While you are here, drop into the Iglesia de Santo Tomás, the town’s main Roman Catholic church to see a mash up of Mayan traditions and Catholic customs. The town’s cemetery (Cementerio De Chichicastenango) is also worth a walk round to see the colourful monoliths and mausoleums that lead the way to the town ceremonial pit where you can see locals offer gifts to their ancestors. 

Tip: If you are uneasy about getting lost, day tours of the market run every Thursday and Sunday from Antigua, Panajachel, Flores or Guatemala City.

Antigua

Architecture nuts will love this place – not just for its colourful facades, but for its exceptionally preserved Spanish colonial features. Antigua’s UNESCO credentials extend to all of its palaces, monuments, museums, cobblestone streets and markets, all of course surrounded by giant volcanoes, Agua and Fuego. Must-see pitstops include: the Arco de Santa Catarina (the city’s famous stone arch); The Mesoamerican Jade museum for a medley of jade jewels from the Mokaya, Olmec, Maya and Aztec cultures; and the Museo de Arte Colonial to see the country’s premier art, mosaic and sculpture collection. 

To see the city at its most authentic, head to the markets. Mercado de Artesanías is great for crafts, Mercardo Central for fruit, veg, meat and spices, and El Mercado de San Francisco for fresh flowers (bring cash as most vendors do not accept cards). There are also several walking tours, but thanks to the city’s breezy grid system, Antigua is easy to navigate at your own pace. Go early to see the city at its best: golden sunrise light and Fuego erupting in the distance included. 

Tip: Book all your tours well in advance. Antigua gets busy, especially during the peak summer seasons when lines are long and tickets are scarce.

Meet An Ajq’ij

Speak to village elders anywhere in Guatemala and they will tell you an Ajq’ij (a shaman) will fix any problem you face. Mayan spirituality is rooted in a deep respect and reverence for nature. To this day, ancient ceremonies and rituals still follow the ancient Mayan calendar, bound by the principles of the universe, cosmological alignment and the Popol Vuh, a sacred text in which the myths, legends, and genealogies of Mayan beliefs are recorded. 

All ceremonies come with intentions: to cleanse, to be reborn, or to change your mindset. Most will take place in a sacred place (caves, at the foot of a temple or in designated ceremonial space) and involve the use of medicinal plants and blessed cacao, along with offerings in the form of sweets, food and in some cases, animals. Lake Atitlán is a hub for shamanic experiences or if you are travelling from Antigua, local guide Delia Pacon will take you to Iximche in Tecpan for an intimate session with Nana Paula in the forest. Expect traditional Mayan music and plenty of alone time in the peace of the trees.

Tikal National Park

This jungle ruin deserves all your attention and more. While it’s a treat to see it at any time of day, sunrise here is straight out of another world – which is probably why these Mayan relics served as the backdrop for scenes shot in Star Wars: Episode IV – A New Hope. Adventure to a tee, you will feel like Indiana Jones incarnate as you trek through the temples in the pitch black with nothing but your guide and a torch for company. By the time you reach the top, the screams of howler monkeys ring through the air as the sun rises over an ethereal layer of jungle mist. The magic is only broken by the sounds of your fellow tourists; if you want the place to yourself, get up there as soon as the park opens at 4am. After, explore all the main temples, and if your guide allows, go off trail to get up close and personal with the wildlife from boa constrictors to the odd swamp croc. 

Tip: To avoid the crowds, stay overnight in the park. Jungle Lodge gives easy, preferential access into the park as soon as it opens. It’s simple but clean and takes its eco-credentials very seriously.

Horseride At Pacaya Volcano

Guatemala’s notoriously active Pacaya volcano is not one to mess with. The last major eruption was in 2021, and while all the lava rivers have cooled, you can still roast marshmallows or bake pizza (for the eye watering price of $40 USD) once you reach basecamp on foot or by horseback. The latter is far more entertaining – and if you are an inexperienced hiker, the safer option, too.

Tip: Whether you are hiking or scaling by horse, wear good shoes. Freshly cooled lava is as sharp as glass and if you get your footing wrong, the volcano can cause some serious damage.

Where To Eat

Sublime, Guatemala City

If you only have one night in Guatemala City, eat here. Sublime is widely considered the best restaurant in town thanks to its epic 12-course tasting menu courtesy of chef Sergio Díaz. It’s designed to whisk you across the diverse country, from the sea to the mountains and the jungle in between. Expect fish and meat, smoked and baked, and some seriously good rum cocktails too. 

Address: Calle 4-15 12, Colonia Bella Aurora, Guatemala City, 1014

Flore de Lis, Guatemala City

Chef Diego Telles shines at this stellar, moody restaurant which celebrates all things molecular cooking. Dishes are pure art, arranged by indigenous and chemical techniques using everything from wildflower petals to principles gathered from the K’iche Popol Vuh Reservas, AKA the Mayan book of Creation. 

Address: Ciudad de Guatemala Zona 4, Casa Del Aguila, Guatemala City, 1004

Antigua Central Market, Antigua 

This is street food at its best. Home cooking is still very much part of the soul of Guatemala, and eating at restaurants is near unheard of in smaller towns, a feat mostly reserved for tourists. If you really want to eat like the locals, Antigua’s main market is the place to head. Everything from tacos to fried delicacies spiced the Guatemalan way and top-notch market-fresh ceviche is on offer. As for the best fried chicken, pull up a chair at family-owned joint Comedor Mary. 

Address: Local Market, Antigva, Gvatemala, Poniente 4, Antigva, Guatemala

Mesón Panza Verde, Antigua

Starry-eyed types will go gaga for Mesón Panza Verde’s candlelit soiree that serves up chicken, duck and red meat with bold flavours and a farm-to-fork ethos. Anything and everything plucked straight from the ground is transformed into a mean side dish or salad to accompany the grill’s bounty. 

Address: 5a Avenida Sur 19, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala

Palopo, Lake Atitlan

Palopo is often regarded as the best restaurant on the lake. Chef Jorge Peralta expertly reinterprets lake classics using only market-fresh ingredients tuned to the rhythms of nature. While it verges on European culinary traditions, the flavours are local and celebrate a crossroad of cultures. Think ceviche, roasted roots and corn soups that are rich and hearty.  

Address: Carretera a San Antonio Palopó, KM 6.8, Santa Catarina Palopó, Sololá, Guatemala

Pollo Campero, Nationwide

Very rarely will I recommend a fast-food shack, but this is an exception. Pollo Campero is such an institution that you will often find Guatemalan families taking buckets of the fried chicken goods aboard a flight to their loved ones overseas in the US or elsewhere in Latin America. It’s one of those places you just have to try to appreciate. Go for the signature fried chicken breast and don’t look back.