Raffles Hotel Le Royal: Is This Phnom Penh’s Best Hotel?

French colonial grande dame, Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Phnom Penh is the epitome of Khmer history. Built in 1929, this stylish art deco, supremely comfortable hotel has been host to royalty, dignitaries and dictators and is quite simply the place to stay in Cambodia’s capital.

Hotel Review: Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

STAY

Charlie Chaplin, Barack Obama and actress Angelina Jolie are just some of the many famous names who have checked into Le Royal. The hotel has links to Cambodia’s royal family, has been a feature on the Edwardian Grand Tour, and in the 1970s, was a refuge for journalists when the Khmer Rouge ran the country. 

These days Le Royal exudes timeless charm along with a forgivable sense of importance. The concierge will point out where the original ‘Writers’ Bar’ stood, back when war correspondents such as Sydney (Killing Fields) Schanberg used the hotel; plaques on suite doors remind you that Somerset Maugham visited and grandeur is everywhere. Lofty ceilings, gleaming, checked marble floors and an airy lobby with orchids and potted plants, team with vintage Khmer art and Buddha statues; antique prints of Phnom Penh and of course, its famous neighbour Angkor Wat, line the walls and in the leafy garden magnificent old trees shade the pool and small, afternoon tea-sized tables.  

The bedrooms, with their oversized art deco lamps, humorous retro-style phones and stylised mirrors, are restful havens with coffee-making facilities, sound-proofed windows (the hotel is in the busy central district, Daun Penh, though you would never know it) and large sleep-inducing beds. High-end meets historic, blissfully.

EAT & DRINK

When Jackie Kennedy visited she had a specific cocktail made for her: champagne with a dash of cognac and crème de fraise. Now called Femme Fatale, it is one of Elephant Bar’s signature aperitifs – and it’s delicious! Photos of her stay, including the lipstick-stained glass she apparently used, are displayed at the entrance. With its Khmer-meets-thirties décor, pictures of elephant parades outside the hotel, cool piano playing, and wide (over 200) selection of gins, Elephant Bar just buzzes. 

Restaurant Le Royal, the smart formal dining room (with a well-appointed side room often used for celebrations), gives traditional Khmer cuisine a modern twist whether that’s moreish fish amok (a thick lobster or white fish coconut curry) or grilled beef skewered on lemongrass.

Breakfast is a leisurely affair in Le Phnom 1929, a French-style brasserie with organic fruit, vegetables, pastries, eggs and Cambodian rice and noodle dishes. Guests can sit inside or on the palm-dotted terrace under cooling fans. I particularly appreciated easing gently into the morning on the terrace with my paper, fruit and muesli while enjoying garden views.

DO

Lounge by the emerald pool enjoying the scent of the frangipani trees. The staff provide iced water, sun tanning oils, moisture sprays, towels and of course the odd cocktail. You might even swim. If not, try the fab spa which has a huge plunge pool.

Compared to its Angkor Wat at Siem Reap, Phnom Penh might appear a little overshadowed, but it has its own charm. Wat Phnom temple (where Phnom Penh is said to have originated) and Wat Ounalom are golden, gaudy delights while the King’s Palace and Silver Pagoda are well-worth visiting. Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum is an informative, if harrowing reminder of the country’s dark history under the Khmer Rouge, though I must admit, I gave it a miss.

Instead, I preferred to escape the heat in one of the charming French-inspired cafes along Sisowath Quay by Tonle Sap river, at the confluence with the mighty Mekong. We chatted to a British English-language teacher about Cambodia: its unspoilt beauty, beaches, fabulous food, challenges and how the country is slowly rebuilding itself. It was upbeat and as interesting as any museum visit.

Don’t forget to visit the wonderful markets: the Central Market and Night Market are the closest but there is also the Russian Market. If you have time, take a cruise along the river – unless of course, you are taking the ferry to Vietnam….

THE FINAL WORD

With its French-inspired architecture, Raffles Hotel Le Royal is a beautiful, gracious hotel that combines heritage and modern comfort, effortlessly.

BOOK IT

Raffles Hotel Le Royal’s starting rate is $390 per night, approx. £301. raffles.com

Carbon Footprint: Nicola stayed while visiting the area for other outlets. She travelled by boat (about five hours) from Vietnam down the Mekong. (170km/106 miles).