Hotel Review: Olonana Lodge – Maasai Mara, Kenya

There are things in the Maasai Mara you can only see from the air. I discovered this on the morning of my birthday, drifting silently in a hot-air balloon at sunrise, the vast ochre grasslands unrolling beneath me. My husband had arranged it as a surprise, and as the burner fell quiet and we floated in absolute stillness, I understood why people return to this pocket of Kenya again and again.

In a safari jeep at ground level, you can feel the drama up close – but from above, there’s a fresh perspective. You gaze at vast herds of elephants moving slowly across the plain, or spot bloats of hippos tracing ancient paths (affectionately known as ‘hippo highways’), trailing kilometres from river to grazing ground and back again. 

Our hour-long balloon flight ended with a champagne breakfast in the bush, backdropped by open grasslands and a herd of buffalo grazing nearby – the perfect way to mark a birthday. But, stranded in Nairobi following the outbreak of conflict in the Middle East, this wasn’t part of the plan. With this unexpected time on my hands, I decided to detour to a part of the world I’d never been to before, but felt I knew so well from a lifetime of watching wildlife documentaries.

As far as firsts go, it was also my first experience of an A&K Sanctuary. One of Abercrombie & Kent’s flagship properties, Olonana Lodge sits on a secluded bend of the Mara River, about a 30-minute drive from the main park gates. Its decks cantilever over the roaring water below, which was running unusually high following heavy, unseasonal rains that locals reported they’d never seen before. Spectacular in its own way, it did also mean that what should have been a front-row seat to a wildlife show between game drives was devoid of the usual cast of hippos, crocodiles and birds lining the banks.

The lodge itself is a genuine retreat that offers a welcome sanctuary between drives. Unlike most tented safari camps, Olonana is unapologetically modern. Clean lines are revealed through wood, stone and folding glass doors that frame the views outside and flood the suites with natural light. These extend through an open plan layout featuring a spacious bathroom with a freestanding tub, a canopied bed and a sunken sitting area that leads to a balcony running the length of the suite that, even without much wildlife, is the best place to sit and while away the day. There is also a swimming pool on site and while the spa is currently under construction, massages can be arranged in-suite, with the surging river as your soundtrack.

Like all safaris, days are shaped by early morning game drives, lingering afternoons back at the lodge and evening drives that end with drinks and snacks in the bush – my favourite part of the day – as the sun dips below the horizon. Despite the rain restricting where we could drive within the Mara Triangle, the sightings were remarkable: a pair of lions mating, a rare rhino and two cheetahs were among the highlights.

Back at the lodge, meals are taken in the dining room, a generous indoor-outdoor space with a mixture of dining tables, comfortable seating areas and open fireplaces. An outdoor bar sits adjacent to a communal firepit, where guests gather for a pre-dinner drink, swapping stories about the day’s sightings.

The food itself is well-executed and considered, with set menus offering the likes of leek and mushroom risotto and red vegetable curry. The pork belly with cauliflower purée and steamed broccoli was a particular highlight. 

Like so much of Kenya, it’s the people who elevate the experience. The warmth and attentiveness of the staff was remarkable; Kenyans, I discovered, are among the kindest people on earth, and the service at Olonana reflects that entirely.

C&TH Key Notes

• Don’t miss: The evening sundowners in the bush – easily the best moment of the safari day.
• Room to book: The Geoffrey Kent Suite, with its own private, heated infinity pool on a wraparound deck and a dedicated chef, housekeeper and guide.
• You should know: The park is open from 6am to 6pm and the lodge sits about 30 minutes from the gates, so earlier is always better when it comes to game drives.
• Best bit of the room: The terrace overlooking the river. Whether the water is calm or running wild, it’s the best spot to sit and simply soak up your surroundings.

THE LAST WORD

Olonana Lodge is a comfortable, modern base for one of Africa’s most extraordinary wildernesses, made all the better by the remarkable warmth of the Kenyan people. 

BOOK IT

Abercrombie & Kent offers a nine-day, private, ready-to-book trip to Kenya from £8,095pp, based on two sharing. The price includes internal flights, park fees, transfers, safari drives and three nights’ accommodation at Olonana Lodge, An A&K Sanctuary on a full-board basis. To find out more, visit abercrombiekent.com or call 03301 734 712.