Is This Lisbon’s Most Charming Luxury Stay?

Miles and Gail Curley never intended to open a hotel, but in Palácio Príncipe Real they’ve created something rather special – a stylish and award-winning oasis of calm in the heart of the Portuguese capital. Simon Kurs discovers how they did it.

Inside Palácio Príncipe Real, Lisbon

There’s a moment in the late afternoon when time seems to slow to a standstill in the gardens of Palácio Príncipe Real.

As the sun begins its languid descent, soon to drop beneath the city skyline, shadows lengthening across the lawn, it feels, for all the world, like nature is taking a long, deep breath. Sitting on the terrace, bathed in a golden-hour glow, birdsong in the air and just the whisper of a breeze rustling through the purple-blossom’d jacaranda tree, the effect is quite profound.

Beyond the hotel’s high walls, Lisbon’s smartest neighbourhood may be thrumming with rush-hour traffic, but here in the grounds of Palácio Príncipe Real, surrounded by lush greenery, all is quiet, all is calm, all is magical.

Not that it was always thus. ‘When we first saw the garden, it was a complete wreck,’ says Miles Curley, describing the moment he and his wife Gail laid eyes on the property during a visit to Lisbon in 2014. ‘The whole area was taken up by a really nasty car park, covered in asphalt, with weeds growing through it.’

‘And you should have seen the state of the building,’ adds Gail. ‘The windows were all broken.’

Originally built in 1877 for the co-founder of one of Lisbon’s most well-known newspapers, Diario de Noticias, the palácio had been one of the grandest family residences in the city, famed for its legendary parties – but by the time the Curleys dropped by, it had fallen into a sorry state, long empty and unloved, having been converted into offices in the 1980s.

However, the potential was clear to the English couple, who were living in Madrid at the time.

‘As soon as we both walked in here,’ says Miles, ‘we both stopped and said to each other “that garden is unique”. To have that much space in the middle of the city is just astonishing.’

It was a eureka moment – and one that inspired the pair to make a life-changing and, some might say, extraordinarily risky decision. They decided to swap their high-flying corporate careers – Miles was a city lawyer, Gail worked in finance – for the far less secure world of luxury hospitality. Their plan: to restore the architectural gem to its former glory, and try their hand at the hotel biz.

A full-scale renovation project began, with the Curleys engaging local craftsmen to restore original features such as the staircase with its Moorish woodwork, the ornate azulejos tiles that are now a stunning feature in some of the 25 bedrooms, and the hand-painted arabesque ceilings. Alongside the restoration work, the building received an eco-friendly makeover, with solar panels on the roof; an air heat recovery system to maximise air-con efficiency; and LED lighting throughout. Several years – and a pandemic – later, the Palácio opened its doors again in 2021, its vivid pastel-pink exterior resplendent once more.

And once again, the Palácio was the talk of the town, swiftly winning plaudits for its combination of stately grandeur and homely charm, impeccable service married with the personal touch that comes from the hotel owners being ever-present – often to be found regaling guests in the bar or, in Miles’s case, taking a morning dip in the sleek saltwater infinity pool.

Indeed, time spent at the hotel feels more like visiting the home of a friend than a stay at the starchy and wilfully rarefied Ritz – and a spot on Condé Nast Traveller’s 2024 Gold List and the 2024 Telegraph Hotel Awards was just reward for the duo’s efforts.

At this point, it’s worth stepping back to fully appreciate the Curleys’ achievement.

Opening and successfully operating a luxury hotel is no mean feat. It’s why most are backed by international brands with deep pockets and hard-won know-how in keeping demanding, high-paying guests happy. It’s also why more than half of the winners in last year’s World’s 50 Best Hotels list came from global groups.

To succeed – and truly stand out – as an independent is remarkable. To do it in Lisbon, a destination having something of a moment, is even more impressive.

Indeed, the Portuguese capital is everywhere these days – and no doubt Insta feeds will again be full of yellow trams on cobbled streets and pastel de nata pics come summer. Competition is fierce, with established players like Four Seasons, Tivoli and InterContinental alongside hipper boutique brands like H10 and Mama Shelter. So what’s the secret?

The Location

I’ve mentioned that garden – a significant draw – but the Palácio Príncipe Real’s appeal also lies in its location. On a quiet residential street in the stylish hilltop district of Príncipe Real, it’s just a stone’s throw from the city centre, yet far enough removed to avoid the tourist bustle. Within walking distance you’ll find terrific local restaurants, wine bars and independent boutiques – not to mention magnificent viewpoints like Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara. A few minutes down the hill, Jardim Fialho de Almeida exemplifies Príncipe Real’s laid-back vibe, with smart locals congregating at the coffee stand or pavements outside bars and eateries – including the current must-visit, Magnolia.

Stroll a little further towards the water and you’re into the lively quarters of Bairro Alto and Chiado, and the historic Alfama, with its colourful façades – all within a 20-minute radius.

Lisbon’s location at the mouth of the River Tagus, where it meets the Atlantic, makes the sea a defining – and unique – feature of the city. I’d heartily recommend a Saturday morning constitutional along the beachfront promenade, where joggers jostle with party people doing the morning walk of shame after a night on Lisbon’s legendary tiles.

Of course, all of this relies on you leaving the Palácio – no easy feat, especially if you’re lured by Filippa’s superb massages in the spa.

The Experience

This takes me to the second ingredient in the Palácio’s recipe for success: the Curleys themselves. Independent hotels often veer between extremes. The best offer strokes of genius thanks to unorthodox thinking – like serving à la carte breakfast until midday. But they can also suffer from professional naivety – I once stayed in a Paris hotel where every room was a gothic boudoir: fun for the ’Gram, useless for lighting.

That’s not an issue at Palácio Príncipe Real – nor are any of the foibles you might expect from first-time hoteliers. The Curleys have clearly thought hard about what makes a top guest experience, drawing on their globetrotting life together, as Miles’s legal career took them to Singapore and Madrid with their two sons.

‘We approached this project from the perspective of a guest,’ says Gail. ‘We thought about how we like to be treated. For example, having to pay for water in a five-star hotel – I cannot stand that. I think it’s outrageous.’

The generosity extends beyond water: each bedroom has a Smeg fridge stocked – and restocked daily – with complimentary local beers, wines and juices. ‘If you’re paying top rate, this is the least a hotel can do,’ says Miles, as Gail nods. They’re equally adamant that check-in and check-out times should be as flexible as possible.

Not that they’ve always agreed. ‘Every time a guest says “I love your Dyson hairdryers”, I think “thank God”,’ laughs Gail. ‘Because I fought so hard to get them. During Covid, when we hadn’t even opened yet, all Miles could think about was the bill.’

The Design

Spend time with the couple and it’s clear Gail is the driving force behind the look and feel. Many of the airy bedrooms have a freestanding Victorian roll-top bath from Drummonds, shipped from the King’s Road (‘they’re just the best,’ says Gail); bathrooms are stocked with Byredo’s stylish Bal d’Afrique toiletries; and the Lameirinho bathrobes are among the comfiest I’ve ever worn.

Her vision extends to the public spaces – the dining room, especially, is a triumph. Pastel-pink furniture and gold Rococo mirrors mix with just a hint of whimsy (duck water jug, anyone?) to create an ambience somewhere between Lewis Carroll and Versailles.

The Food

It’s a fittingly playful backdrop for the largely plant-based menu – and a fine showcase for Miles’s deliciously peppery organic olive oil. He proudly explains it’s from the couple’s 70-acre olive farm in central Spain – part of a lifelong obsession that began with childhood holidays in Mallorca, where he’d play among olive trees in the garden of his family’s holiday home.

It’s the reason, he says, they named the restaurant EVOO – Extra Virgin Olive Oil – yet another personal touch in a hotel that feels as much an expression of its owners’ personalities as a hospitality venture.

Lisbon Like A Local: Gail Curley’s Insider Recommendations

Hit The Beach
‘We love the fact that Lisbon has such beautiful beaches on our doorstep, and Costa da Caparica is our favourite – a 25km stretch of largely unspoilt, dune-backed sands. Go for a swim and a stroll before a late lunch at Borda d’Água, where freshly caught fish is grilled over the barbecue. In summer evenings, it’s also a great spot to watch the sunset.’

Take A Hike
‘I love walking around the city, and there are two routes in particular that really show what a special place Lisbon is. For the first, head down through Chiado towards the river, then climb back up into the historic quarter of Alfama, overlooked by the magnificent Castelo de São Jorge. From there, it’s a short stroll to Torel Garden, which offers a completely different perspective of the city from the one you get in Príncipe Real. For the second, walk up through Parque Eduardo VII to the Estufa Fria – essentially a giant greenhouse full of tropical plants. The tranquil setting is a perfect place to collect your thoughts before heading to the Gulbenkian Museum and its remarkable collection of historic art.’

Retail Therapy
‘My favourite places to shop in Lisbon include Next Memory – a wonderfully original apothecary on Rua de São José selling its own brand of scents and candles – and Traces of Me, where you’ll find beautiful Portuguese-designed clothes and scarves. For shoes made in Portugal, I love La Choix, while Vista Alegre is fantastic for locally crafted ceramics.’

Dining Out
‘In Lisbon, we love having a late lunch at the Deli Bar at JNcQUOI – they have an all-day kitchen and it’s great for people-watching. Another favourite is TAPISCO, a mix of Spanish tapas and Portuguese petiscos that our guests always rave about (one Canadian guest went three times last week!). But for a special dinner, it has to be KABUKI. This Japanese–European fusion spot has a Michelin star, but it’s not OTT, and there’s also an à la carte option for those (like me) who don’t fancy a tasting menu. The food is simple, super high quality and absolutely delicious.’

The Final Word

With industry accolades piling up and a growing base of loyal guests, the Curleys now have every right to call themselves proper hoteliers – even if the journey wasn’t always smooth.

‘Because we’re not from a hotel background, it was a baptism of fire,’ says Gail.

‘When we first opened, we didn’t hire anyone for the night shift – it was an extra expense and we had no idea how many guests we’d have. So we were the night people. Miles would stay up in the bar waiting for everyone to come in. And if someone had an early flight, I’d be the one up to check them in or out.

‘It was exhausting – but the best way to get to know the business.’

BOOK IT

Rooms from £470 per night including breakfast. palacioprincipereal.com

Simon’s return flights had a carbon footprint of approx. 510.4kg of CO2e. ecollectivecarbon.com