Inside Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat, The French Riviera’s Belle Époque Icon

The French Riviera has no shortage of glamorous hotels, but Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat has always been at the top of my list, not least because of its graceful Belle Époque architecture, magnificent Mediterranean gardens, and more than a century of history. Since opening in 1908, the hotel has entertained a kaleidoscope of VIPs from Winston Churchill and Charlie Chaplin to Elizabeth Taylor, cementing its place as one of the Cote d’Azur’s defining addresses.

Today, under the Four Seasons banner, the hotel unfolds across seven hectares of beautifully landscaped gardens at the tip of the Cap Ferrat peninsula, one of the Riviera’s most exclusive corners. The 74 rooms, suites and villas are spread between the original palace building and a series of more secluded residences tucked among umbrella pines and cypress trees, while the legendary Club Dauphin, with its seawater swimming pool perched above the rocky Mediterranean coastline, is one of the Côte d’Azur’s most iconic places to while away an afternoon with views of the yacht-speckled sea below.

Following a major overhaul in 2009, the accommodation ranges from  light-filled guest rooms in the original palace to expansive suites and private villas, some with their own pools. The interiors are the work of French designer Pierre-Yves Rochon who layered the spaces in an understated yet traditional aesthetic that keeps the setting at centre stage. The Palace Sea-View Suite is a bright retreat tucked away on the ground floor in cream and white tones with hints of pale yellows and blues, a marble bathroom and an expansive terrace that looks across the tops of the pines towards the sparkling Mediterranean beyond. 

Though, the hotel makes its strongest impression from below. From Club Dauphin, a winding pathway through the gardens gradually reveals glimpses of the elegant white façade, before the building finally emerges in all its Belle Époque glory – a wonderfully cinematic moment especially at sunset when the sky behind it is a sweep of deep orange hues.

Club Dauphin itself can also be reached by a glass funicular that descends to the rocky shoreline below. A Riviera institution since 1939, the club has plenty of stories of its own. For decades, its legendary swimming instructor, Pierre Gruneberg, taught generations of guests to swim, including Pablo Picasso, Paul McCartney, and members of the Kennedy family, becoming almost as well known as the pool itself.

Today, it’s easy to see why people spend entire afternoons here. The best place to start is at the open-air poolside restaurant, a buzzing spot that serves fresh seafood, from bowls of mussels and clams to grilled catch of the day, served with perfectly crisp french fries and equally crisp glasses of cold white wine. Afterwards, stretch out on one of the many sunbeds that line the pool or overlook the ocean. Or, for a little more privacy, treat yourself to one of the cabanas, which are set into the cliffside among the greenery and come complete with a mini bar, drinks cabinet and USB charging points.

Back at the hotel, Le Bar is the place for one of the best dirty vodka martinis before dinner at Le Cap, a Michelin-starred restaurant that comes into its own on balmy summer evenings beneath the trees. The menu celebrates seasonal Mediterranean produce with exquisitely plated dishes such as the stuffed morels with pork ravioli and black pudding, or red mullet with white asparagus and black garlic. The standout, however, is the magnificent cheese trolley, laden with regional classics from Banon – goat’s cheese wrapped in chestnut leaves – to a deliciously gooey Époisses that is worth saving room for.

Make sure to spend time at the spa, especially on days when the Riviera doesn’t quite deliver sunshine. Alongside an indoor pool, jacuzzi and sauna, there’s an extensive treatment menu that includes everything from the Gold and Green Caviar facial, to the Dreamy Massage, designed for parents and children. Younger guests, in fact, are kept busy at the complimentary Kids for All Seasons club, with treasure hunts and arts and crafts, tennis and cooking classes.

C&TH Key Notes

Don’t miss: The Tour du Cap-Ferrat coastal walk. Ask the concierge for a route map before setting off around the peninsula’s pine-covered cliffs and hidden coves.

Room to request: A Pool Terrace Suite. The private plunge pool is perfect for a quiet afternoon if you’d rather escape the buzz of Club Dauphin.

Insider tip: Club Dauphin welcomes a limited number of non-residents each day, so if you’re visiting in summer, reserve a private cabana in advance to avoid missing out.

THE LAST WORD

There may be glitzier hotels along the Cote d’Azur, but few can match Grand-Hotel du Cap-Ferrat’s rich history and timeless setting. More than a century after opening its doors, the hotel has none of the understated elegance that made it one of the Riviera’s defining hotels in the first place.

BOOK IT

Prices start from €820 in low season for a Superior Pinewood Room, including tax. fourseasons.com