A Historical Hotspot In The City: The St Regis, Florence

E.M. Forster’s novel set in Florence might be called A Room With A View, but surprisingly few of the city’s many high end hotels offer much of a vista. And even some of the best aren’t particularly well-located for the main sights. The St Regis, on the other hand, is not only within easy walking distance of most of Florence’s prime attractions, it also sits on the banks of the river Arno, with great views out towards the Ponte Vecchio. It’s also, happily, well away from the crowds.

The St Regis also comes with quite a history. Once the Renaissance palazzo of the grand Giuntini family, it was originally designed in the early 15th century by Filippo Brunelleschi – whose most famous project was the legendary dome of Florence’s cathedral. The hotel has undergone various rebuilding projects over the years, and it became the city’s first luxury hotel (as the Grand Hotel) all the way back in 1866 – with guests including Queen Victoria. It was modernised by former owner the Aga Khan in the 1980s and 90s and, after another revamp, became a St Regis hotel in 2011. These days, the hotel draws guests that include Bill Clinton, Kevin Costner and Madonna.

Review: The St Regis, Florence

STAY

The St Regis is a classic luxury hotel in the heart of Florence, with everything you could hope and want for. It all starts at check-in, when you’re invited to sit comfortably at a desk rather than stand. You feel special from then on, attended to by amiable but efficient staff smartly dressed in dark grey. If you opt for a higher category room, you even get a butler not only to unpack for you, but also to bring you your morning coffee.

Even though the building is as imposing as you would expect from a Florentine palace, there are only 80 rooms and 19 suites, most of them with river views. But the small number of rooms means that they’re wonderfully spacious. We’d recommend a room on the upper floors with balcony, so that you can sit and enjoy the view in comfort.

Décor is largely traditional, with some modern touches. In true palazzo style, you get wooden floors, frescoed walls, coffered ceilings with imposing crystal chandeliers, antique furniture and gilded mirrors. Much of the decoration in the rooms is the work of local artisans, but you’ll find all the facilities of a modern luxury hotel room – including large bathrooms (marble, of course) with Acqua di Parma toiletries and thick towels and gowns.

There are three different room styles to choose from: Medici, Florentine and Renaissance. Every one is just as luxurious as the next, only really differing in colour palette. But not everything is traditional. One suite is designed in a more modern style, in neutral shades, by Bottega Veneta. And thanks to an arrangement with a leading local gallery, public areas are sprinkled with modern art – an attractive contrast to the historic surroundings.

The St Regis has no pool, but there are three luxurious Clarins spa suites as well as a 24-hour fitness room with state of the art TechnoGym equipment.

EAT

The centre of life at The St Regis is the magnificent 19th Century Winter Garden, with its remarkable Art Nouveau stain glass ceiling. It’s where you’ll find the hotel’s stylish piano bar and its restaurant which, under Albanian-born chef Gentian Shehi, serves some of the best food in town. The menu at lunch is follows time-honoured Tuscan traditions, with things rise to a more fine dining, sophisticated feel in the evening. The techniques are modern, as is the colourful presentation. It’s high level cuisine with memorable flavours drawn from superb ingredients. Those craving authentic Italian flavour will be more than happy with the spread – the set menu is a good starting point, and has vegetarian options. Shehi’s delicious signature dish is baby chicken prepared in three different ways, and the re-imagined tiramisu is also worth going for.

Breakfast, too, is in the Winter Garden, but upstairs in a gallery which encircles the space just below the glass ceiling. It has to be one of the most unusual and dramatic breakfast rooms around. And the extensive, high quality choice on offer matches the location.

If it’s something quick you’re after, you’re in luck. The St Regis recently opened a brightly decorated café showcasing the famous Florentine Ginori porcelain brand. It’s the place for coffee or a relaxed snack.

If you happen to be in the hotel’s bar from between 7pm and 8pm, don’t miss the impressive nightly sabrage ritual, when waiters uncork champagne bottles by swishing sabres. In good weather you can also drink al fresco on the small terrace outside the front of the hotel. Another perk worth taking advantage of is that guests of The St Regis are welcome to use the rooftop bar of the nearby sister hotel The Westin Excelsior.

DO

You don’t have to go far for the nearest sight. The Ognissanti church – one Florence’s hidden gems – is almost literally on The St Regis’s doorstep, in the same small square. The 13th century Franciscan church, later rebuilt in baroque style, not only contains the tombs of artist  Sandro Botticelli and navigator Amerigo Vespucci (after whom America is supposedly named), but also frescoes by Botticelli, Giotto and Ghirlandaio. The immediate area is known for antique shops and art dealers.

Also close by is the lovely basilica of Santa Maria Novella, with numerous works by Renaissance masters (Florence’s main station, with the same name, is behind it). And you can walk to the city’s famous shopping street, Via Tornabuoni, where Italy’s major fashion brands are lined-up. Just off it is the grand Palazzo Strozzi, which hosts major temporary exhibitions, and a little further away, you’ll find the Duomo and Baptistry, two of the city’s most iconic buildings.

The hotel’s location on the Arno means you can easily cross the river to get to the cool Oltrano area with its less touristy restaurants and many artisan shops, as well as the Boboli Gardens and Pitti Palace with its art collection – second only to the one in the Uffizi, with which it is directly linked by the newly reopened 500-year-old Vasari Corridor, which takes you over the Ponte Vecchio.

The Final Word

The St Regis can hardly be bettered among Florence’s luxury hotels for location, very high levels of service, memorable food and opulent rooms – all in a historic palazzo in a quiet area but in easy reach of the sights.

BOOK

Double rooms with breakfast at The St Regis, Florence start from £590 per night. marriott.com

Anwer Bati was already travelling in Italy when this review was conducted. Anwer’s train journey to from Milan to Florence had a carbon footprint of approx. 39.9kg of CO2e.