Escape to Vieques: Is This The Caribbean’s Best-Kept Secret?

Nicole Smallwood provides the ultimate guide to Vieques, a picture-perfect island just off Puerto Rico.

A Guide To Vieques, Puerto Rico

From the moment I stepped off the tiny plane onto the sun-kissed runway of Vieques, I knew I had arrived in a place where time slows down, worries melt away, and life follows the rhythm of the waves. Located off Puerto Rico’s eastern coast, this idyllic island feels like a place forgotten by time – no fast food, sprawling resorts, or Starbucks. Instead, Vieques offers raw, unspoiled beauty and a refreshing break from the typical tourist experience.

The island is a paradise of natural beauty. One day I hiked through lush hills and the next, I found myself alone on a secluded beach with turquoise water stretching endlessly before me. I learned to pack a cooler, grab a beach towel and let the day unfold. Each beach was a haven of calm, and I could spend hours just floating in the crystal-clear water or lying under a palm tree.

Perhaps the most surreal part of Vieques were the wild horses. They roam freely across the island – through neighbourhoods, along beaches, and down quiet roads, unbothered by people. Watching them peacefully wander added an almost dreamlike element to my experience.

The absolute highlight of my trip was kayaking in Mosquito Bay, the world’s brightest bioluminescent bay. Paddling through the glowing waters in a clear-bottomed kayak was like drifting through a sea of stars. The water sparkled with every movement, and it felt like magic. It’s an experience I won’t soon forget.

Vieques is not a place for tick-lists or itineraries; it’s about slowing down and reconnecting – with nature, with yourself. It’s a place where you can simply be present and feel at peace. For me, it’s the Caribbean’s best-kept secret, and I can’t wait to go back.

STAY

Hix Island House

My trip to Vieques began with a stay at Hix Island House, a unique and serene retreat perched high in the tranquil hills of the island. Surrounded by 13 acres of untouched natural beauty, Hix Island House felt more like a sanctuary than a traditional hotel. From the moment I arrived, I could feel a sense of calm settle in, and it only deepened as I explored the property.

Designed by Canadian architect John Hix, the hotel’s geometric concrete structures – some triangular, others round – blend harmoniously with the lush landscape. The design is minimalist yet welcoming, and there are no conventional windows or doors, only expansive openings that let in the breeze, the birdsong and the sun’s warm light. It feels like there’s no barrier between the indoors and the natural world outside.

(c) Michael Grimm

The property runs on solar and wind energy, and rainwater is carefully harvested and used throughout. There’s no air conditioning; instead, the natural ventilation keeps the rooms breezy and comfortable, and the open spaces invite you to truly experience the beauty of Vieques. Our room had an outdoor shower, a full kitchen stocked with local goodies, and a private terrace with a view of the jungle rolling down to the ocean. Waking up to the sunrise and falling asleep to the soothing sounds of coquí frogs became a new rhythm I quickly embraced.

Each of the 19 rooms is designed to interact uniquely with the surrounding environment, making every stay different. The wildlife is abundant – wild horses graze near the property, and I often saw geckos and iguanas as I explored. The 40-foot pool in the heart of the property offered the perfect spot to cool off after a day of adventure.

What stood out the most was Hix Island House’s commitment to sustainability. Their eco-friendly philosophy was evident in every detail, from the use of renewable energy to the thoughtful design that minimizes the property’s environmental footprint. It felt good to stay in a place that truly practices what it preaches.

Though Hix Island House feels remote, it’s only about 10 minutes from the beach town of Esperanza and 20 minutes from Isabel Segunda, making it easy to experience both the tranquility of the property and the local culture. hixislandhouse.com

Finca Victoria

After a few days at Hix Island House, we moved on to Finca Victoria, a completely different experience. Nestled in the hills, Finca Victoria is more than just a place to stay; stepping through its wooden gates, I immediately felt a sense of calm, as though I had entered a secret oasis.

The property is built with intention, and every detail is designed to support rest and reflection. It blends rustic charm with understated luxury, featuring vintage furniture, reclaimed wood, soft linens and lush gardens. Everything about Finca Victoria feels peaceful and soulful, yet it’s completely unpretentious.

We stayed in one of the 14 uniquely designed units. From luxury treehouses and cozy cabins to full-size houses and even a vintage Airstream, each accommodation offers a different experience. Our unit had a private deck with a hammock, an outdoor shower, and a kitchen where we could prepare simple meals while listening to the sounds of the jungle.

Mornings began with a delicious, complimentary vegan breakfast – fresh fruit, homemade granola, and strong coffee, all served in a breezy communal space. The atmosphere at Finca Victoria is relaxed, and while it doesn’t offer daily meals, we were fortunate to enjoy a themed Mardi Gras-inspired vegan dinner during our stay. It felt more like an intimate gathering than a typical restaurant experience.

Finca Victoria also offers daily yoga sessions and a wellness centre where I indulged in an Ayurvedic massage. The apothecary on-site is filled with tinctures, oils, and teas, and there are workshops on herbalism, breathwork, and other wellness practices. It’s a place that feeds your body, mind and spirit.

Finca Victoria is a space to unplug, slow down, and truly connect with nature. Whether you’re meditating on the yoga deck, floating in the pool surrounded by trees or lounging in a hammock with a good book, every moment feels like an opportunity to simply be. finca-victoria.com

Lejos Eco Retreat

Lejos Eco Retreat is a true hidden gem. Situated on a lush 10-acre plot, the retreat offers panoramic views of the hills and the Caribbean Sea. Whether you’re dining on tapas at sunset or staying in one of their quirky rooms, including shipping container units with private decks, it’s a peaceful, picturesque spot. The infinity pool is a highlight, making it feel like a slice of paradise.

EAT

Vieques has a wonderful mix of dining options, ranging from fine dining to casual spots with stunning views. A few of my favourites are:

El Quenepo – for a fine dining experience, El Quenepo is a must-visit. The dishes are creative, beautifully presented, and the service is top-notch. 

Duffy’s – a great spot for casual oceanfront dining. The atmosphere is lively, and you can enjoy drinks while watching the sunset. 

Tin Box – this quirky spot offers wood-fired BBQ and surprisingly great sushi. It’s a laid-back place with a unique vibe.

Placita (at El Blok) – this upscale restaurant offers a trendy setting, though the food can be inconsistent at times. Still, it’s worth a visit for the experience.

El Norte – a small, cozy seafood spot that serves fresh catch dishes.

For drinks, be sure to check out:

El Blok Rooftop Bar – a chic bar with amazing views and creative cocktails.

Mar Azul – a beachfront bar where you can enjoy cocktails with your toes in the sand.

Cafe del Mar – a fun, social spot with a relaxed vibe.

DO

Bioluminescent Bay – no visit to Vieques is complete without experiencing Mosquito Bay, the world’s brightest bioluminescent bay. A kayaking tour here is an unforgettable experience.

Snorkeling – Vieques is home to vibrant coral reefs teeming with marine life, including sea turtles, rays, and tropical fish. If you’re lucky, you might even spot a shark!

Beaches – Vieques boasts many secluded beaches, each with its own charm. Playa Caracas, Playa Negra, and Playa La Chiva offer pristine waters perfect for snorkelling or simply relaxing in peace.

Hike to the Faro de Esperanza – a short hike takes you to a stunning viewpoint with panoramic views of the island.

Horseback Riding – Vieques is famous for its free-roaming horses, and horseback riding tours allow you to explore the island’s natural beauty in a unique way.

Vieques National Wildlife Refuge – a vast protected area filled with hiking trails, secluded beaches, and abundant wildlife.

Top Travel Tips

1. Rent a car or arrange a pick-up since taxis are rare on the island.
2. Check restaurant hours and make reservations, as places have varied schedules.
3. Bring a beach parasol, as not all beaches have natural shade.
4. Vieques is just a 30-minute flight from San Juan.
5. Carry cash, as many businesses don’t accept credit cards.
6. Be prepared for mosquitoes, especially in the evenings.

THE FINAL WORD

Vieques isn’t about checking off tourist attractions; it’s about experiencing a Caribbean Island that hasn’t been overwhelmed by mass tourism. It’s a place where nature reigns supreme, with breath taking landscapes and an atmosphere of calm, is a true slice of paradise, waiting to be discovered.