Akira Back On His New London Restaurant Lilli

Often, when you ask chefs when they became interested in food, they say it was inherent. But Akira Back admits this wasn’t the case for him. Born in Seoul and raised in Aspen, Colorado, he spent many years as a professional snowboarder – and only started cooking because he admired sushi master Kenichi Kanada’s suave demeanour. Back landed a job under Kanada, and after struggling to find his feet at the beginning, he soon fell in love with his life in the kitchen.

In 2008, Back opened his first restaurant in Las Vegas, located within the Bellagio Casino & Resort and influenced by Korean and Japanese cuisine. This was the first of many openings: Back now runs eateries all over the world, in destinations from Paris to Singapore, some with Michelin stars.

Last year, he opened his first London restaurant, Dosa by Akira Back at the Mandarin Oriental London. It secured a Michelin star, but mysteriously closed shortly after. Now, Back has turned his attention to a new venture: Lili by Akira Back at Montcalm Mayfair. We hear more below.

Akira Back Q&A

What can we expect from your new restaurant, Lilli by Akira Back? 

Lilli by Akira Back is Montcalm Mayfair’s signature restaurant and my London flagship, and only restaurant in the UK. I bring my Korean heritage and global training together with exceptional British produce. Expect British classics reimagined through techniques like long marinades with doenjang, house-fermented kimchi, and slow glazing with soy, yuzu and kombu. It is a bold, vibrant and a reflection of my style of cooking.

Favourite dishes on the menu?

Pizza, because it is my mom’s favourite and you can see her art in it. The AB Tuna Pizza is a signature of mine and a perfect first bite. Thin and crisp, layered with sashimi grade tuna, truffle soy and micro shiso. I also have a huge love for a long-cooked short rib, like galbi jjim. There is a 48-hour short rib that speaks to what I grew up eating. My mom’s flavours are still the benchmark. I’m excited to be featuring these dishes on our Lilli by Akira Back menu from September onwards. 

What do you love about the London dining scene? 

The energy. London always evolves, which keeps chefs on our toes. You can eat the world here. That diversity inspires me to play with ideas and ingredients, then bring them back to the plate at Lilli by Akira Back. 

How important are Michelin stars to the success of a restaurant? 

They are a respected benchmark and a goal many chefs share. For me, the first measure is the guest who books again, brings friends, and trusts us to cook for life’s moments. If accolades come, I am grateful. 

You have a background in professional snowboarding. Are there similarities between the sports and culinary worlds? 

Balance, timing and flow. On a mountain you read the terrain and commit. In service you and your team read the room and commit. Sport also taught me teamwork from my baseball days. A kitchen only wins as a team! 

First dish you learnt to cook?

Pizza with my mom. We’d often make it when I had friends visiting, always adding a playful twist for whoever was joining. 

What is your food philosophy? 

Respect the ingredient. Build layers of flavour with marinades, ageing and fermentation, but keep the final plate clean and focused. 

What is in your fridge right now? 

Three kinds of kimchi, yuzu, miso, perilla oil and good butter! 

If you are not in the kitchen, where are you? 

Playing tennis, in the mountains or visiting my restaurants around the world.

You most memorable dining experience of all time?

A tiny counter in Tokyo where the chef served one bite of warm sea urchin over hot sushi rice. Perfect temperature and balance. 

Any unusual kitchen rules?

Taste every sauce twice, once hot and once warm.

montcalmcollection.com