Winter’s Biggest Trend? Tartan, Of Course
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29 minutes ago
Traditional textures are coming for your wardrobe this season
Is it us, or is tartan everywhere right now? It seems we can’t walk past a shop window or magazine cover without seeing the traditional Scottish print in action. (And really, we’re not complaining.) Less passing trend and more enduring tradition, tartan is the fashion industry’s biggest (not so) guilty pleasure.
The Great Tartan Fashion Revival
Back in February, we noticed one major trend stick to the catwalk at London Fashion Week: Britcore. Now, it may not be a surprising narrative to come from the UK capital, but the rate at which polo stripes, tweeds and checks spread across the global stage was a pleasant surprise.
Burberry gave tartan the spotlight in many of its AW25 runway looks
And now, as we arrive in winter, we can see those sartorial pillars of British style hit the mainstream. The pattern leading the movement? Tartan. While Scottish in its heritage, us Brits have collectively come to love the traditional textile.
‘Tartan is instantly recognisable through its balanced checks and intersecting lines – a visual cadence of colour and symmetry,’ notes Giles Deacon, Creative Director of Purdey. ‘It expresses a deep connection between pattern, place, and British craftsmanship.
‘There’s a clear yearning for the genuine,’ he adds. ‘People are gravitating towards pieces with permanence – honest materials, beautifully made. Tartan embodies that rare combination of history and relevance.’
‘Tartan is such a timeless part of British style, and I’ve always loved how versatile it can be,’ notes Jade Holland Cooper, fashion designer and founder of Holland Cooper. ‘It’s great to see heritage fabrics coming back with contemporary silhouettes, especially on the runway. It feels traditional but with a modern twist, seeing unexpected fabric pairings, bold colours with layering and pattern clashes – it works and looks great.’
Holland Cooper champions British craftsmanship and classic styles
But even with today’s contemporary takes, that tradition runs deep – and makes tartan one of the most universally recognised fabrics out there. ‘There’s definitely a distinct look to it,’ says Tom Birkbeck, Creative Director of House of Bruar. ‘And this comes down to the craftsmanship behind it. Scottish tartan is traditionally a worsted 2/2 twill weave fabric, which basically means the “weft” yarn passes over two “warp” yarns instead of one, creating a series of dashes that form into diagonal lines. Add two or more alternating coloured stripes, and we see that chequered pattern that’s instantly recognisable.’
The making of tartan is a respected craft in the UK, particularly in its homeland of Scotland. It’s thought that the material was woven and worn from as early as the third century, although it wasn’t until some centuries later that it became attached to specific clans within the region.
‘Tartan’s story begins in the Highlands, a fabric once used to distinguish region and kin,’ outlines Giles. A true representation of Scotland, the fabric was even briefly banned by the British government as a means of suppressing Highland culture and preventing a repeat of the 1745 Jacobite uprising.
But the ban didn’t last – if anything, tartan only became more popular. ‘Queen Victoria fell in love with Scotland,’ explains Tom. ‘And this helped tartan morph into a symbol of the romantic Scottish soul. It really emerged from being a divisive symbol to being a universal one, in the case of Great Britain.’
We’ve since seen tartan be reborn again and again, for multiple generations. There’s the royally-approved countryside tartans – ‘One of the most popular tartans is Royal Stewart, the official tartan of the royal family,’ says Tom. ‘That’s one that traditionally everyone can wear, as we are all considered part of their clan.’ – the vintage après ski appeal of the slopes, the 1970s punk look championed by Vivienne Westwood, and the contemporary chic of the runway.
Claudia Winkleman has given British sartorial staples a new sense of glamour through her styling on The Traitors (c) BBC/Studio Lambert/LLARA PLAZA
Fashion Week might have made a sturdy catalyst for tartan’s revival, but it’s difficult to ignore its recent relevance in pop culture – more specifically, television. ‘I think TV has a big role to play in all this,’ agrees Jade. ‘Shows like The Traitors, Rivals, and The Gentleman adopt this traditional styling, giving it an even bigger appeal.’
‘It really is a universal cultural icon,’ adds Tom. ‘It means something different to everyone who wears it. It’s a proudly Scottish fabric but it’s been embraced and is loved across the UK, and beyond.’
And while it’s exciting to see tartan take the global stage by storm, it’s important to remember its roots. ‘Tartan speaks of lineage. It reflects the quiet strength of British identity – heritage that is worn, worked and cherished,’ explains Giles. ‘Tartan and tweed remind us that British textiles are not relics of the past, but living traditions – still woven with artistry, still worn with intent, still defining a certain, quietly confident way of life.’
‘Something called a tartan can be made anywhere, from any thread, but the very best is made here in Britain and only from pure new wool,’ adds Tom. ‘Every time I visit one of our mill partners like Lochcarron in the Scottish Borders, I leave with new knowledge and respect for their artistry. We need to support and nurture those generational skills.’
How To Wear Tartan This Season
Keen to try your hand at styling tartan? Before you do, read what our experts have to say – below, they share their top tricks for nailing the look.
Curate Your Colours
First things first: think about your colour palette. ‘With so many tartans out there, it can be an expression of your style – or even your mood. The options are endless,’ notes Tom.
But if you’re colour shy, he adds, opt for the darker tartan: ‘Blackwatch tartan is a great place to start because the palette of black, navy blue and bottle green looks great with other pieces. A tartan with “muted”, “ancient” or “weathered” before its name will be one where the colours have been toned down to give a more subtle washed country look.’
For those feeling braver: ‘Just go big with classic Royal Stewart.’
Pick A Statement Piece
While we gravitate towards tartans, it can feel a little bit trickier to make it match up with what we already have in our wardrobe. To get over that hurdle, Jade recommends starting with a hero piece and building around it. ‘For everyday wear, start with one statement piece – perhaps a beautifully tailored tartan blazer or a pair of check trousers – and pair it with clean, neutral basics,’ she suggests. ‘If you’re dressing more casually, a tartan scarf or mini skirt instantly elevates a simple knit or crisp white shirt.
‘It’s all about balance,’ she adds, ‘mixing traditional heritage patterns with modern silhouettes and textures.’
Dig Into The Details
A pattern as instantly recognisable as tartan can also be used to elevate simpler pieces. As they say, it’s all in the detail. ‘Subtlety always prevails,’ adds Giles. ‘A softly woven scarf, a jacket lining, or a field gilet in muted tones can bring quiet distinction. The goal is enduring elegance – pattern as punctuation.’
Wear It Proudly
And lastly: wear it well. ‘Confidence is everything,’ emphasises Jade. ‘Tartan is bold by nature, but when you wear it with intention, it becomes effortlessly chic.’
