Dual Portugal Stay: Porto’s The Yeatman & Pinhão’s The Vintage House – Review

The northern Portuguese city of Porto gave its name to Port, and has been linked to the drink since it first became popular in Britain in the early 18th century, when war dried up our supply of French wines. And the names of the major port houses – Cockburn, Croft and Taylor, for instance – speak loudly of the longstanding British (often Scottish) involvement in the trade.

A little confusingly, the centre of the Port business isn’t actually Porto but directly across the Douro river in the nearby city of Vila Nova de Gaia, connected to Porto by six bridges. And it’s there that you’ll find the port lodges, with their tasting rooms and warehouses.

The Yeatman

One of the most important is Taylor’s, founded in 1692. Thanks to the vision of the company’s dynamic boss, former army officer Adrian Bridge, land no longer needed by the business was transformed into Portugal’s finest hotels, The Yeatman (named after another port family), in 2010. Bridge was also behind the foundation of WOW (‘world of wine’), a collection of museums and restaurants based in former warehouses, which has brought new life to the area directly below the hotel.

Built on a series of terraces down a hill, the Yeatman (a member of Relais & Chateaux) immediately established itself as the city’s best hotel. A huge part of the attraction is the incomparable panoramic view of Porto from all 109 of its rooms. What’s more, they all have a terrace to enjoy it from. You can even see the Douro, the bustling Cais de Ribeira and the UNESCO listed old town from the cleverly designed bathrooms with their louvered shutters.

The Yeatman

The rooms themselves are stylishly furnished, brightly decorated, unusually comfortable and well-equipped with plenty of space. Appropriately given its origins, wine is a key feature of the hotel: there are wine books on the shelves, wine related pictures on the walls, and an outdoor pool shaped like a decanter. Even the rooms are named after Portuguese wine producers. There is an indoor pool (a view from there, too) at the superb spa, where you could easily spend the whole day experiencing the extensive menu of beauty care, facials, massages and body treatments – some of them wine or grape-based, naturally.

As it’s a purpose-built hotel, the Yeatman’s many public areas are large and handsome. The calm, smart ambience is matched by the excellent and very friendly service. There’s a shop near reception which is perfect for your souvenir and gift needs: it not only sells wine and accessories, but also Portuguese foods (tinned fish and olive oil, for instance), clothing, ceramics, and many other high quality, locally made, items.

The Orangery is the place for an extensive buffet breakfast – with large windows and outside tables so that you never miss that view. It’s also open for lunch and dinner. There’s also Dick’s Bar, with its club-like décor, for drinks, light meals and snacks throughout the day. Naturally, it has its own terrace, and there’s live music in the evening. Afternoon tea at Dick’s is quite an event, with the menu created by chef Ricardo Costa.

The Yeatman

Costa has two Michelin stars for the Yeatman’s gastronomic restaurant, which has a serene atmosphere. It’s one of the best in Portugal thanks to its extraordinary tasting menu firmly based on Portuguese ingredients and traditions, but with inspired contemporary flair. 

If that’s not enough, there are no fewer than ten places to eat and drink at WOW, just a couple of minutes down the hill, ranging from posh to pizza, and all very good. And, of course, there’s wine. You can get a comprehensive view of what Portugal has to offer, and learn about it, not only with your meal, but in tasting sessions, masterclasses, at special diners, and by visiting the extensive cellar.

The ageing cellars that gave Porto its name may be nearby, but the grapes to make port and many other wines come from the lovely green hills further up the dramatic Douro valley. You can combine a stay at the Yeatman with one at its sister hotel, The Vintage House in the small town of Pinhão, reached through stunning scenery by road, train or river. The Yeatman can also organise day trips. It’s the perfect combination for wine lovers.

The Vintage House

The Vintage House, opened in 1998, has a different, more rustic vibe and is perfectly situated on the river in the heart of the Douro valley. Dating from the 18th century, it’s right next to Pinhão’s picturesque railway station and was once a winery itself, with the old cellars forming part of the hotel. Almost all of the 47 rooms and suites, stretching over three buildings, have balconies, and the view of the Douro and the hills on the other side is ravishing.

In keeping with the hotel’s style, rooms themselves are highly comfortable and charming rather than outright luxurious, with colourful fabrics, wooden tables and a country house feel. Bathrooms, decked out with marble and traditional tiles, are smart (most with showers only). The large public areas are bright, welcoming and full of references to the Vintage House’s heritage. And service couldn’t be friendlier, with smiling staff always ready to help, and bar staff unusually knowledgeable about the wine on offer.

The Vintage House

There’s a big outdoor pool (with its own bar) and a large garden terrace where you can relax with a glass of local wine in hand and watch passing river traffic. There are plans to add new facilities to the hotel, including a spa, in the future. This hotel can also arrange trips, including tastings and picnics and to the Quinta da Roeda, the beautiful Croft port estate, walking distance away.

Foodwise, The Vintage House has a different style to The Yeatman. The main restaurant, the traditionally decorated Rebelo (named after the boats that take wine barrels down the river), has yellow walls, a vaulted ceiling and a parquet floor, and there are tables on the terrace in good weather. When the food comes, it’s much more ambitious in style and presentation than the deceptively simple menu of Douro dishes might suggest – and it’s clear that there’s a talented chef (Milton Ferreira) at work. 

The buffet breakfast is in the bright Salão do Rio, a former cellar with views of the river and an outside terrace. The Library Bar, with its leather chesterfield sofas is the place for a pre-dinner drink, or a snack throughout the day.

The Vintage House

THE FINAL WORD

The Yeatman and the Vintage House are two very different hotels, in both style and setting, linked by the river Douro and the wine trade. The former a luxury hotel to rival any in Portugal, and the latter an exemplary country hotel. If you love wine, port in particular, either or both are a must.

BOOK IT

Double rooms with breakfast at the Yeatman start from £291 per night. the-yeatman-hotel.com 

At the Vintage House, doubles start from £190 per night. vintagehousehotel.com