andBeyond Bateleur Camp Is The Masai Mara Lodge You’ll Want To Return To

Ever since I stayed at Phinda Forest Lodge almost 20 years ago, andBeyond has had my attention. Set within KwaZulu-Natal’s last remaining sand forests on South Africa’s east coast, it felt unlike anything I had experienced before with its modern glass-walled suites, raised above the forest floor, marking a shift from the more traditional colonial-style camps of the time. 

More than that, though, it was andBeyond’s approach that felt distinct. Phinda Forest Lodge marked my first glimpse into how tourism can fund conservation, support local communities and protect the land – a model that underpins much of how safari experiences operate today.

Since then, andBeyond has expanded far beyond South Africa, building a portfolio that stretches across east Africa, South America and into Asia, all while staying grounded in the core principles it started with. In recent years, andBeyond has also pushed further on the design front, opening more ambitiously architectural lodges like Sossusvlei Desert Lodge in Namibia and, more recently, Suyian Lodge in Kenya’s northern Laikipia region.

Kenya, however, has long been part of the story, with andBeyond first establishing its presence here in the early 90s with Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp on the edge of the Masai Mara. This was followed soon after by Bateleur Camp, a smaller, elevated sister property, set within a private concession at the foot of the Oloololo Escarpment on the edge of the Masai Mara National Reserve.

And this is where I find myself now. Re-opened a few years ago after a complete rebuild, Bateleur Camp retains its original layout, but the classic safari aesthetic has been reworked and refined with a lighter, more residential feel. Though it operates as a single lodge, Bateleur is split into two halves – North and South, each with its own pool, nine suites and main dining area – to create a more intimate atmosphere.

The suites themselves have a classic tented structure with canvas walls and pitched roofs, while the cosy interiors are layered with old-world map-print wallpapers, polished wood and a pair of comfortable armchairs that invite you to curl up with a glass of sherry in the evening. Shiny new glass conservatory-style bathrooms with free-standing bathtubs were added with the rebuild. At the tent’s front, the canvas panels can be unzipped and rolled up to reveal mesh-screened sliding doors that open onto a private deck with a sunken seating area.

The main dining space, a short walk from the suites, is open-air and relaxed. A homely, lived-in feel is created by loosely arranged floral and leather sofas, armchairs and a central fireplace – the best spot to warm up with a pre-dinner drink. Meals follow a set menu with plates such as pork chops with crushed sweet potato, roasted beetroot and green beans. But it’s breakfast here that is the real highlight. Served at linen-dressed tables overlooking the landscape, it’s an easy place to linger in the late morning sunshine after a game drive, as a generous tray of cold cuts, yoghurt and pastries arrives alongside dishes, from classic bacon and eggs to chapati breakfast wraps, ordered from an à la carte menu.

Of course, the kitchen is flexible, and with a little notice the chef will happily tailor meals to suit. In many ways, though, it’s the staff and service that define Bateleur. Warm, intuitive and distinctly Kenyan, many of the team are Maasai and grew up in the region, while some have been here since the early days of Kichwa Tembo – in some cases close to 30 years, having worked their way up over time.

Like all safaris, days at Bateleur Camp are shaped around morning and afternoon game drives into the Masai Mara, with time in between to do as much or as little as you like – whether that’s a spa treatment or an hour by the pool. Sightings come easily, from lions and elephants to giraffe and large herds of plains game, but many flock here for the Great Migration, when vast numbers of wildebeest and zebra move across the Mara in search of fresh grazing, often crossing the river in dramatic scenes. Many of the guides, like Protus who accompanied us, grew up in the region and have the easy ability to read both the bush and their guests instinctively.

C&TH Key Notes

–When To Go: For the Great Migration between July and October. 

–Don’t Miss: A classic sundowner in the bush as the light fades over the Mara.

–Room to request: Room 16 for the best views – and, as staff proudly note, it’s where Uhuru Kenyatta stayed during his visit.

–You Should Know: During the rainy seasons (typically April to May and November) heavy downpours can limit where vehicles can go, as some tracks become difficult to navigate.

–Best Bit Of The Room: The hot water bottle tucked into your bed at night.

THE LAST WORD

Bateleur doesn’t reinvent the safari – but in a place like the Masai Mara, it’s the instinctive guiding, a deeply rooted team and an ease that comes from years of experience that matter most.

BOOK IT

Luxury Tents at andBeyond Bateleur Camp start from £934.52 per person per night, based on two people sharing. Rates are fully inclusive of accommodation, all meals and drinks, twice-daily safari experiences. andbeyond.com