A Very British Stay At The Goring

A stone’s throw from Victoria station, on the boundary between Belgravia and Westminster, The Goring has been a glamorous part of London life since Otto Goring first opened its doors back in 1910. More than a century later, it remains London’s only five-star luxury hotel that’s still owned and run by the family who built it, now in its fourth generation. A short stroll from Buckingham Palace – the closest hotel to the palace, in fact – it has a discreet reputation, plus some rather impressive connections with its regal neighbours.

Bestowed a Royal Warrant by the late Queen Elizabeth II from 2013 to 2022, The Goring most famously hosted Catherine Middleton with her family the night before her wedding to Prince William, spending her final night before becoming the Duchess of Cambridge in The Goring’s apt Royal Suite.

Dinner is undoubtedly one of the best parts of a stay here. The Michelin-starred Dining Room is headed up by Executive Chef Graham Squire, who worked in the kitchens of Claridge’s and Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons before leading Michelin-starred Trinity and The Lickfold Inn. He’s been at the helm here since 2019, with a particular soft spot for seasonal produce sourced from British farmers and suppliers. Eggs Drumkilbo with Cornish crab, aged caviar and native lobster is the hotel’s most requested dish, and was a favourite of the Queen Mother. There’s also a native lobster omelette, Dover sole with Wiltshire cauliflower, truffled Devon white chicken and dry-aged Cornish duck. For two, the standout Longhorn beef Wellington arrives on a silver trolley with slow-cooked short rib and horseradish – perfect for some tableside theatre.

The Lounge and Cocktail Bar are more relaxed affairs, though still decidedly glamorous. Despite its rich pedigree, the hotel has a sense of humour – and here it runs through the cocktail menu. Signature cocktails include the Garden Negroni, inspired by Grandpa Goring who apparently liked to order one in the mornings. The royal nod comes with ‘Thank You, Your Majesty’ – a mix of raspberry, yuzu, gin and Champagne created in tribute to the King. There’s also the Pink Flamingo, inspired by the St James’s Park flamingos which used to stay in The Goring’s gardens, and the Garden of Temptation, made with vodka, green apple liqueur and matcha (that’s healthy, right?).

Adding to the atmosphere, live music provides the backdrop throughout much of the week, with pianists on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, a live band on Thursdays, and piano with vocals on Fridays and Saturdays.

Speaking of humour, sheep have become something of a Goring signature, and they make an appearance during turndown. One little sheep comes complete with a remote control, while another might be found sporting a guest’s sunglasses. It’s an unexpected playful touch from a hotel otherwise very well versed in the serious business of old school hospitality. The hotel has some fun in the garden this summer too: Cham’Pong – a fizz-fuelled twist on ping pong – running to the end of September. Order a bottle of Bollinger and take to the table, bouncing balls into Champagne coupes either by hand or with a bat (the rules, sensibly, are very loose). 

Of course, the setting helps: The Goring is home to one of London’s largest private hotel gardens. There’s some substance behind the fun, too, with £5 from every Cham’Pong bottle donated to Hotel School, founded by The Goring and The Passage in 2017 to help people affected by homelessness into careers in hospitality.

C&TH Key Notes

—Perfect for: A quintessentially British stay with Buckingham Palace just a stone’s throw away.

—Breakfast order: Scrambled eggs with smoked John Ross salmon.

—Dinner order: Marmite butter on bread (whipped and utterly delicious), the Isle of Wight heritage tomato, aged Parmesan, jalapeños and tomato consommé, and the beef Wellington.

—The highlight: A glass of perfectly chilled Champagne at the bar, with live piano in the background.

—Don’t miss: Cham’Pong and a bottle of Bollinger in the garden.

The Last Word

The Goring has history and royal connections aplenty, a Belgravia address and one of London’s largest private hotel gardens – perhaps best admired over the hotel’s century-old tradition of afternoon tea on The Veranda. It’s easy to see why it remains a royal haunt, but superb service is also at the heart of this London institution, with intuitive, thoughtful staff. The absolute cherry on top is Graham Squire’s Dining Room, a foodie’s delight that deserves an evening of its own. Perfection.

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From £870 per night inc VAT, room only. thegoring.com