Looking Beyond Santorini’s Caldera At Canaves Epitome

With its 17th-century Cycladic villas and 600-year-old olive groves overlooking the Aegean sea, Canvases Epitome will change your mind about Santorini. Lauren Ho Reports.

What It’s Like To Stay At Canvases Epitome, Santorini

Santorini has always been a destination on my ‘must get to’ list. As a travel writer, it’s one of those places I felt I should have visited by now, but the problem was, the more popular it became, the less I actually wanted to go. For me, the idea of Santorini had become so wrapped up in cruise ship crowds, influencers and queues for the same sunset that I couldn’t help but wonder if I’d missed its best years.

The reality, as it turns out, is much as you’d expect and it’s easy to see why it’s such a draw. Santorini is every bit the postcard you’ve imagined, with whitewashed houses clinging to the volcanic cliffs, cobalt blue domes punctuating the skyline, and infinity pools melting into the caldera.

What changed my perception, however, was Canaves Collection. Founded in 1985, the family-run group began with the transformation of two 17th-century wine caves, once used to store the family’s own vintages, into what is now Canaves Ena. Four decades on, second-generation owner Markos Chaidemenos now oversees four hotels across Oia, each with its own distinct personality, with Canaves Epitome the latest addition to the collection.

Unlike the others, which are carved into the caldera, Epitome is perched on the north-west tip of the island above the fishing village of Ammoudi, just beyond Oia. Spread across sprawling grounds built from volcanic stone, the resort sits amongst magnificently manicured gardens overlooking the Aegean, its position giving uninterrupted views of Santorini’s famous sunsets from almost every corner of the property.

Space is probably the last thing you’d associate with Santorini, yet it’s one of the first things you notice at Epitome. Unlike the tightly packed terraces and whitewashed lanes that defines so much of the island, here, meandering pathways weave through mature 600-year-old olive trees, fragrant herbs and flowering shrubs that attract a chorus of bird song – as well as curious gardeners who can scan the discreet QR codes to learn more.

The rooms themselves range from spacious suites to expansive multi-bedroom villas, each varying slightly in layout, but sharing the same unmistakable Cycladic aesthetic where curved windows, pale oak, natural stone and exposed volcanic rock are softened by an understated palette of neutral creams and sandy tones.

The two-bedroom villa was an especially entertaining option, thanks to the lower-ground second room, which had a viewing window that looked directly into the pool. Above, the window seat in the master bedroom is where I spent most mornings with a cup of tea, while the expansive terrace was the perfect spot to soak up the late afternoon sun, particularly, one evening when the sounds of a nearby string quartet and a couple exchanging their wedding vows drifted through.

Then there’s the food. At Elements, Chef Tassos Stefatos takes diners on a journey around the world with a menu of familiar dishes from different countries – like Shabu Shabu in Japan – and reinterprets them through Greek ingredients and techniques. The sunset here is of course spectacular (if you don’t mind other diners blocking your view to take pictures) but for an equally impressive view, Omnia, located by the upper level pool offers something more casual. Here, there’s an elevated but approachable menu of dishes from the tuna belly ‘souvlaki’ to an excellent caesar salad prepared tableside

However, my favourite experience by far was a long lunch at Ammoudi Fish Tavern. Located about 300 steps below Epitome in a tiny fishing harbour directly below Oia, the restaurant – another of the family’s outlets – centres around the catch of the day, presented tableside before being simply grilled and served just metres from the water, where fishing boats bob gently beneath the towering volcanic cliffs.

Yes, I’ve been putting off Santorini for years. And while first-time visitors should absolutely experience the classic caldera hotels, Canaves Epitome offers a welcome alternative. 

C&TH Key Notes

Don’t miss: A day aboard one of the Canaves yachts, which depart from Ammoudi Bay and visit volcanic hot springs, hidden coves and swimming spots only accessible by boat.

You should know: The properties in the Canaves Collection work like a single resort, with complimentary shuttle transfers between each hotel, meaning you can dine at the restaurants across the collection, including Adami at Canaves Ena or Petra at Canaces Oia Suites.

Best bit of the room:  Apart from the obvious, the beautifully designed bespoke toiletries created exclusively for the collection.

THE LAST WORD

Canaves Epitome shows that  Santorini still has the capacity to surprise

BOOK

Rates for Canaves Epitome’s Pool Suite start from €509 (currently approximately £437) per night, including breakfast. For more information, please visit; canaves.com