Old Town, New Era: The Once Shabby Hastings Has Turned Boho Chic 

It’s official – Hastings Old Town has traded its reputation for being slightly shabby to distinctly chic. Nestled between two dramatic cliffs, this vibrant coastal enclave blends its monumental place in British history (now very much in the spotlight, with the return of the Bayeux Tapestry to British shores) with a defiantly eccentric, independent spirit. While its fishing fleet heritage and medieval timber-framed buildings remain untouched, the narrow streets now bustle with upscale stores, excellent eateries and contemporary craft.

Beneath all of this lies a deep-rooted love of folklore and pagan wildness – epitomised by the famous annual Jack in the Green festival, where the town erupts into a sea of foliage, music and untamed celebration to welcome in the summer. Elsewhere in the calendar, there are the annual fireworks with their sinister parades of marching drummers and beach bonfires, as well as the carnivalesque Mardi Gras music festival. It is this unique collision of history, artistic rebirth and coastal eccentricity that makes the Old Town one of the most captivating destinations on the South Coast today.

When it comes to experiencing the newfound coastal sophistication of Hastings Old Town, choosing the right base is essential. The town’s transition from ‘shabby to chic’ is mirrored in its premium boutique accommodation, combining historic architecture with high-end design and comfort. 

The Old Rectory

Where To Stay 

For the ultimate immersion into understated luxury, book into multi award-winning The Old Rectory. Owned by fashion designer Lionel Copley (Katherine Hamnett), the Georgian property carries an individualistic yet relaxed arty stamp across its rooms. Guests can expect bespoke wallpapers and hand-painted panels by local designer Deborah Bowness, alongside eye-catching contemporary artworks from talented local artists including Colin Booth.

Outside is a beautifully landscaped, south-facing walled garden with a koi carp fish pool, while inside, a peaceful mini spa offers exceptional treatments, many using products by organic local brand, Rock Rose. Canine friends are now also welcome for a stay in the hotel’s capacious Bourne Street. 

The culinary experience here is equally special. The on-site Café at The Old Rectory relies on incredible local produce and features its own garden smokery to smoke fish and bacon in-house. Alongside an array of locally-sourced dishes, including an amazing chowder and the best homemade cakes in town, the venue also hosts Orchard Road Singaporean pop-ups every weekend from acclaimed local chef Rob Hills, bringing vibrant global flavours, plus gourmet Sunday lunches.

The Laindons

For those who prefer a smaller stay, The Laindons is a six-bedroom boutique guest house in the heart of Hastings Old Town, housed in a beautifully restored Georgian coach house on the High Street. Owners Karen and Malcolm Twist took on the building in 2017, following more than 30 years as hair stylists in South London, and special touches abound throughout. Breakfast is a big part of the Laindons experience, with consecutive AA Breakfast Awards – expect homemade sourdough crumpets and granola and a full-on Full English! Guests can also enjoy breakfast in bed or take a breakfast hamper to the beach (as well as fluffy beach towels and sea shoes!). 

The culinary rebirth of Hastings Old Town perfectly captures its dual identity, marrying salt-of-the-earth coastal traditions with forward-thinking gastronomic flair. From beachside shacks to modish tasting menus, the local dining scene is diverse and bursting with character and flavour.

Coquina

Where To Eat & Drink

No trip to Hastings is complete without experiencing Maggie’s Fish & Chips, a legendary institution that consistently secures a spot on the UK’s top 10 best fish and chips roundups and was recently patronised by Prince William. Perched right on the shingle beach amongst the town’s famous black wood Net Shops, dining here places you directly beside the active local fishing fleet with views of the working beach. Sourced straight from those very boats, the fish is as fresh as it gets – boasting incredibly light, tempura-like crispy batter and perfectly flaky textures.

Come evening head to Coquina. Tucked away on the first floor of the Hastings Contemporary art gallery, Coquina is a light-drenched, Mediterranean-inspired tapas bar boasting what is arguably the best terrace views in town. The restaurant is the creation of Ruby Boglione (part of the Petersham Nurseries family) and Silvy Pilkington, who also run the acclaimed BAYTE and the newly opened Dora’s pizzeria in neighbouring St Leonards. The kitchen turns the finest South Coast ingredients into vibrant sharing plates, with standout dishes featuring incredibly fresh, locally landed catch like whole grilled South Coast sardines paired perfectly with salty sundown snacks and classic cocktails.

For a more intimate or experiential evening, check out Lury. Located on the edge of the Old and New Towns, it is a highly lauded, intimate 10-seat fine-dining restaurant helmed by chef Jack Lury. Operating on an exclusive single-sitting basis, it serves a surprise tasting menu that masterfully merges British seasonal produce with the vibrant Sri Lankan flavours of Jack’s heritage – evidenced by brilliant opening touches like a fermented sugarcane Arrack Old Fashioned.

The Crown

Another much-loved Asian eatery is Tonka. Run by creative duo Kim and San, serving up bold, flavour-driven small plates inspired by Mauritian and East Asian cooking. Cult favourites on their changing menu include their signature dauphinois wontons, sticky short ribs, and addictive black garlic aubergine alongside a selection of natural wines.

While the Old Town boasts historic and atmospheric pubs aplenty, be sure to make tracks to multi-award-winning The Crown on All Saints Street. This independent, family-run Freehouse successfully elevates the traditional pub experience without losing an ounce of community warmth. Its kitchen relies heavily on locally sourced, seasonal ingredients to construct a fantastically modern, and fantastically British, food offering. Just as impressive as the local cider and craft beer curation is the pub’s commitment to the local creative scene; the walls double as an ever-changing exhibition space showcasing work by talented local artists.

Hastings Contemporary

What To Do

Continue your exploration of local art at Hastings Contemporary, striking architectural monolith right on the shingle beach. The gallery has spearheaded the town’s arts renaissance, anchoring it as a must-visit South Coast destination for art lovers, alongside the Turner Contemporary in Margate and The Towner, Eastbourne. Clad in thousands of black tiles that beautifully reflect the changing coastal light, this internationally acclaimed gallery champions modern and contemporary art. Its artistic programme is anchored in ocean futures and sustainability, bringing together artists, scientists, fishermen and local communities to explore new creative frontiers. 

If shopping’s what you’re after, the Old Town retail opportunities are abundant, offering hours of browsing potential through its antique, bric-a-brac and independent stores. Be sure to stop by A G Hendy & Co, an immersive homestore housed within a sprawling Georgian townhouse and stocking carefully styled utilitarian goods, vintage hardware and old-school cleaning essentials. Just a short walk away on George Street, Butler’s Emporium offers an elegant, rustic environment inside an 1832 building, showcasing an exquisite mix of Turkish linens, groovy gifts and chic ceramics. For those prioritising sustainable aesthetics, Reste on the High Street stocks artisan homewares designed to help you tread lighter on the planet 

As the sun goes down, there’s a lively music scene waiting to be explored, and all tastes get a look-in – from classical concerts, including the much-feted Hastings International Piano Competition at the White Rock theatre, to sea shanties at The Jenny Lind pub and thriving local jazz and folk groups. 

Hastings is also home to an edgy underground dance scene  – check out What’s Happening Hastings? to find out where to enjoy DJ sets from promoters (including More Fountains) at venues such as the Brewing Brothers Courtyard, The Fountain on Queens, Frenchie’s and Black Box. 808 State, Goldie, Smokin Jo, Dom Letts and Norman Jay have all played recent sets locally.      

The Royal

Nearby Sites To Explore

If you are exploring Hastings, it would be amiss not to trot further along the seafront to check out St Leonards-on-Sea. Often described as the ‘Hove to Hastings’ Brighton’, St Leonards is Hastings’ sleeker, slightly more imposing neighbour. Originally laid out as a fashionable seaside resort in the early 19th century by pioneering architects James and Decimus Burton, the area is defined by monumental, white stucco Regency architecture and elegant colonnades. Today, it has evolved into a creative playground, boasting galleries, independent shopping and an increasingly celebrated food scene.

The retail and entertainment heart of St Leonards can be found on the seafront, and stretches across to Norman Road and Kings Road. These streets are bursting with carefully curated vintage stores, mid-century furniture emporiums and galleries – stop by Pass Muster, Shop and the Lucy Bell Gallery. Nestled right on Norman Road, Kino Teatr is a stunning independent cinema and arts venue housed inside a converted pre-war theatre, boasting a glorious atrium gallery, The Reel café-bar, and a 48-seat auditorium showing the arthouse and indie releases alongside regular concerts and events.

St Leonards has swiftly established itself as a premier South Coast dining capital, marked by several standout venues. Conveniently located right opposite St Leonards Warrior Square station, The Royal holds coveted Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand status and is operated by James Hickson, who brings an elite culinary pedigree from legendary London institutions like St John, The Canton Arms, and Moro to bear. This down-to-earth gastropub serves elevated, unfussy seasonal food, centring on incredible local produce with a British heart and Mediterranean twists.

For a taste of sophisticated, modern European dining, BAYTE is a gorgeous neighbourhood spot and its beautifully styled, plant-filled dining room focuses on local sourcing, with a menu that delivers hand-rolled Italian pastas, biodynamic wood-fired meats, English-grown organic vegetables and rare herbs direct from Goat Grid, the restaurant’s dedicated food agroforest in nearby Lewes.

The Royal

Located within the cruise-ship inspired Marine Court on the Marina, Colombo House serves phenomenal, modern Sri Lankan flavours built on reinvented family recipes. Diners can dive into punchy podi sharing plates, Jaffna mutton curries, and split lentil dahls. Right next door, sister venture Pol serves as the ultimate daytime spot for fresh seasonal salads, gourmet sandwiches and fantastic homemade ice creams. For a casual bite directly on the shingle beach, follow the bright, multi-coloured paintwork to Goat Ledge. This beloved seafront destination serves generous breakfast baps, locally caught fish rolls, and sundowner drinks right from the promenade. On a rainy day, the Heist indoor food market delivers a wealth of moreish street food options. 

Heading out of town, the best way to bookend your coastal escape is to scale the dramatic sandstone heights overlooking the eastern edge of the town. You can either take a nostalgic ride up the historic East Hill Funicular Railway (the steepest cliff railway in the UK) or tackle the steps rising directly from the old fishing beach. Once at the summit, you step onto the vast, untamed expanse of Hastings Country Park Nature Reserve. This sweeping clifftop haven rewards you with truly spectacular, panoramic views over the iconic black Net Shops and English Channel, and— on a crystal-clear day — all the way across to the distant white cliffs of Beachy Head.

Following the undulating coastal paths through ancient glens and gorse-covered clifftops offers the chance to take a breath of raw, maritime fresh air — a perfect, wild contrast to the chic streets below, and the ultimate parting memory before you head home.  

BOOK IT

Stays at The Old Rectory Hastings from £160 per night B&B 

Stays at The Laindons from £175 per night B&B