The Food Of Latin America Is Given A French Kiss At Mayfair’s Latest Open, Latine

By Catherine Blanchfield

9 minutes ago

A Barrafina chef's fusion take that spans the Atlantic ocean


French cuisine has long borne the heavy crown of its high-precision technique and silver cloches – and with it, a reputation for stuffiness. Not so at Latine, Mayfair’s newest kid-on-the-block. Chef Francisco Lafee (of Barrafina fame) showcases food that’s ‘a dialogue between classic French technique and the bold flavours of Latin America’ – and the resultant menu might as well be a light-hearted wink.

In First Sitting, we take you into the earliest services at London’s newest restaurant openings; on this occasion, we’re inside Latine. 

Inside Latine, Mayfair’s New Latin American-French Restaurant

In Brief

–The Location: Nestled away from the glitzy drama of New Bond Street in a pretty car-free area

–The Vibe: Mayfair grande-dame in the making – with a dedicated crudo bar

–The Occasion: A very special occasion date, or dedicated girls’ night (where you’re comfortable dropping a little dosh)

–Dish Not-To-Miss: The beef bourguignon taco with pineapple pickle

The Scene

Step into the back alleys of New Bond Street and you’ll discover Lancashire Court – a pedestrianised area dominated by wisteria and boutique shops. And, now, three-storied townhouse restaurant Latine: impossible to miss, with a red brick facade that hides the opulence you will shortly discover inside. Case in point: this front gives way to checkerboard marble floors and a sweeping staircase finished with intricate wrought iron balustrades. 

The space is divided into three distinct sections: the ground-floor restaurant-cum-crudo bar – which boasts fresh seafood both in its kitchen and dancing on Petra Palumbo tiles on the floor; La Candela up the stairs which turns into a DJ lounge as the night rolls on; and El Cielo, the private dining room. La Candela (the candle) is instantly comfortable, with velvety tobacco-brown walls and an amply-stocked cocktail bar in the corner, while El Cielo (the sky) is less W1 than it is Enid Blyton with its ethereal woodland mural, vaulted ceilings and foliate chandelier. 

The main room at Latine

The main dining room

It is crystal-clear that the devil is in the details – the scalloped edges of name-branded plates are mirrored in the finish of soft leather bar stools, in the valance over the awning as you enter. Diptyque products in the bathrooms are an unexpected touch of luxury, and an unobtrusive soundtrack steers you from dish to dish, an ever-present pulse through your merriment. 

The Drinks

The team are masters of their craft: attentive without being overbearing, knowledgeable but never pushy – a hard balance to find on the London restaurant scene. Allow them to recommend your wine pairing and prepare to be met with lighter-than-air champagne, rich and warm Pinot Noir and verdant Chablis. And no wonder – the wine list is handpicked by ex-Savoy sommelier, Romain Audrerie. There are worse ways to spend a Tuesday night than being swept between the sun-drenched vineyards of Latin America and the cool, classical cellars of France. 

Latine's bar counter

The restaurant’s counter dining comes with a view of the bar

The cocktail programme is designed to reflect the same spirit of the food: vibrant, contemporary, and rooted in the rich culinary traditions of Latin America. Expect your classics – but naturally with a flavour twist that transports you across the ocean.

The Food

You are invited to sit back and enjoy ceviches of red prawn, tuna and cauliflower, each more herbal and flavourful than the last, duck croquettes with guava chipotle chutney, and pão de queijo (cheese bread) with Osietra caviar. The most accomplished and confident synthesis of cultures – in my view – came in the form of a beef bourguignon taco with pineapple pickle. Flawlessly cooked, beautifully balanced and the epitome of the vibrant conversation between classical French and soulful Latin that its chef – alongside owners Amine, Nacer and Adil – was seeking to facilitate – completely approachable fine dining fusion. And take for a second example its bouillabaisse – the Provencal fish stew met Latin America with its halibut, prawn and cockle deftly coerced to creaminess in a Peruvian red pepper. 

Ceviche at Latine

Ceviche at Latine

Final Word

Latine delivers elegance, epitomising the bright and fiery soul of Latin America, whilst retaining the precision and savoir faire for which French cooking is so renowned. ¡Provecho! and bon appétit – Latine can speak both tongues fluently.

Latine At A Glance

Where is Latine located?

Latine is located in Mayfair at 10-11 Lancashire Court, London W1S 1EY.

Who is the chef?

The executive chef is Francisco Lafee (Le Cordon Bleu-trained, with previous stints at El Celler de Can Roca and Barrafina).

What kind of cuisine is served?

French-Latin American.

What’s the dress code?

There’s no strict dress code, though most diners opt for smart-casual attire (beachwear, sportswear and flip-flops are discouraged).

What’s the price range?

Crudo and starters from £11, sharing plates and mains range from £18-£130 (the 1kg ribeye tops the menu), with vegetarian/vegan and caviar upgrades available on request.

Do they serve vegan and gluten-free options?

A vegetarian and vegan menu is available on request; for gluten-free or other dietary needs, it’s best to flag directly with the restaurant when booking.

Do they accept walk-ins?

Reservations are recommended given demand since opening – book ahead to be safe.

BOOK IT:

Book via latinemayfair.com or call +44 020 3887 3126.