Bar Blondie Brings Soho Energy To Queen’s Park

Queen’s Park – a leafy, North West London neighbourhood tucked between Kilburn and Kensal Rise – has been gradually building up its culinary reputation for years. Spots like Milk Beach, Alice House, Ida and the recently revamped Salusbury pub put it on the map, but bakery-cum-restaurant Don’t Tell Dad really cemented Queen’s Park’s reputation as a foodie mecca. And now there’s a new spot to know: Bar Blondie.

Though it’s a schlep from central London – tucked away down the cute and cobbled Lonsdale Road, you wander past always-lively pub The Wolfpack, a smattering of shops and fitness studios and a Nicola Harding showroom to get there – already, you are wondering when you will return. That’s the magic of a pedestrianised street with enough punters to create a vibe, plus Queen’s Park’s village feel. (If you are anything like me, at this point you will also make a mental note to hop onto Zoopla later.)

Bar Blondie is helmed by Milk Beach creator Elliot Milne and sommelier Alex Price.

In Brief

–The Location: A converted stable on buzzy Lonsdale Road, formerly home to Milk Beach

–The Vibe: Intimate and elegantly glitzy wine bar with subtle Spaghetti Western references

–The Occasion: Date night, or a catch up with close friends

–Dish Not-To-Miss: Fazzoletti with devon crab, chilli and lemon

The Scene

Taking over Milk Beach’s old unit opposite Don’t Tell Dad, stepping inside the lemon-yellow-painted Bar Blondie on a Thursday evening felt like arriving at an established favourite – not a fledgling, two-week-old, 45-cover restaurant. Square windows soak the interiors in the dying summer light, while a leafy terrace is tempting for leisurely-long dinners and sunset wines.

Designers at Macaulay Sinclair have reimagined the former horse stables as a mid-century modern artist’s living room, complete with bespoke joinery and found pieces. Stools with cowhair backs are pulled up to the mirror-backed bar, behind which a turntable spins a vinyl playlist of bangers. Textured banquettes line the walls, and some of the chocolate brown tables for two are topped with a marquetry chessboard (as well as powder blue plates with bubble edges set and ready for dining). Outside, powder-painted metal tables and chairs are tucked onto a decked terrace, bordered by potted plants; ask to sit here to soak up golden hour and the buzz threading its way down Lonsdale Road.

Inside, a smattering of artworks selected by Ryan Stanier, founder of The Art Office and The Other Art Fair, are sprinkled across the cream wood panelled walls. Amongst this, paying close attention, you will notice subtle references to Spaghetti Western filmmaker Sergio Leone’s aesthetic with film posters and artful cowboy depictions. Indeed, the clue is in the name: Clint Eastwood’s character in Leone’s The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (1966) is nicknamed Blondie. It’s a dramatism that carries through to the drinks menu…

Alex Milne has crafted a stellar, 200-bine wine list for Bar Blondie.

The Drinks

Shiny as a disco ball and thick as a novella, the 200-bin wine list has been playfully masterminded by award-winning sommelier Alexandra Price. There’s a balance between classic old-world estates and new-wave independent producers focused on terroir and careful farming practices, all categorised by four muses: The Director (iconic estates and expressive cuvées), The Architect (precision and structure), The Writer (soulful, terroir-driven selections), and The Actor (low-intervention producers pushing boundaries).

It’s a refreshing reimagination of the age-old wine list, and the kitsch book is exciting to flick through, stirring dormant tastes and stimulating an urge to be brave and chart new terroirtory (sorry). There is also a selection of cocktails and wines by the glass, and if you are in need of guidance, the team is brimming with expertise and can help to guide you out of your comfort zone.

The Food

Head Chef Alastair Walling brings experience from Albers, Noble Rot and Maset, while Executive Chef Alexander Busca with his Italian heritage was here when the venue was still Milk Beach. Together they’ve built a menu around seasonal ingredients from trusted suppliers, twisting classics with panache.

Begin with the bluefin and stracciatella crostini, a morsel crispy bread topped with chunks of bright, lemony tuna and a slathering of creamy cheese. Follow it up with the seabream crudo, which is lifted by Carosello cucumber and Honeymoon melon. The veal tartare niçoise builds a light, salty, fresh dish out of the classic French salad ingredients. The potato salad dressed with Taggiasca olives and basil pesto is a delicious side order, continuing the light and refreshing theme.

Then onto pasta. The rigatoni alla vodka with nduja and pecorino is hot and generous, the freshly made tubes drenched in lashings of the coral-red sauce. The fazzoletti with devon crab, chilli and lemon is another must-try, the floppy, napkin-like pasta pieces totally transportive, doused in lemony crab. As the sunset paints blush hues across the sky and the evening temperature lingers around 24°C, a party erupts at another restaurant across the street, PYRÁ this time; I could be deep in the heart of Italy.

For pudding, it’s tricky to resist any of the four options – so we greedily plump for three. No regrets: the creamy crème caramel has a burnt, smoky flavour, shifting a tried and true favourite out of the norm; the red Mayan chocolate mousse is decadently drizzled in olive oil and salt; and the La Tur cheese – a blend of cow, goat and sheep milk – is soft and tangy, a fitting end for savoury lovers.

Final Word

Lonsdale Road has been building momentum for years. Don’t Tell Dad established the foodie credentials, and the whole road buzzes with independent businesses and creative energy. Bar Blondie arrives as a natural extension of that, bringing Soho-level excitement to northwest London, without the crowds or the chaos.

Bar Blondie At A Glance

Where? 19-21 Lonsdale Road, London NW6 6RA

Chef? Head Chef Alastair Walling, Executive Chef Alexander Busca

Cuisine? Southern European, especially Italian and Provençal inspired

Price? Starters £4.50–19, pasta and mains £18–68, desserts £8–12

Dress code? None, but with its stylish crowd you will want to err on the smarter side of casual

Dietary requirements? The menu has some vegetarian options, but for other dietary requirements, it is best to call up in advance or email [email protected]

Walk-ins? Space is saved for a handful of walk-ins every evening, but availability cannot be guaranteed

Anything else? Bar Blondie is an adults-only restaurant (21+) – no babies or buggies allowed, either

Book It

barblondie.co.uk