Is This Off-The-Beaten Track Gastropub One Of The Best In Britain?

What a relief it is, after potholing our way through the Cotswolds, to pull into the calm embrace of the Killingworth Castle, says Tessa Dunthorne. It’s a boon, too, that it boasts one of the best dinners among UK gastropubs. 

Review: The Killingworth Castle, Cotswolds

It is the opening match of the Six Nations, and we are holed away in the bar at the Killingworth Castle as Wales are washing away their hopes of a good year. Though we are probably only a 90 minute drive from the border, the gaggle of viewers are red-blooded Britons and bloodthirsty for this loss. The barman calls the crowd to attention: roasties and hot dogs are served. The tension cuts like a knife as attention is diverted to familiar treats, instead. 

My visit here coincides with a sporting season that really matters to the Cotswolds set, who are, generally speaking, total Rugby loyalists. Yet despite the buzzy atmosphere in the bar, this is technically the low season for the Cotswolds; for the duration of this visit, there is nary a moment without rain at the window. But early spring is an exceptional time to visit for a number of reasons: you can beat the crowds, and enjoy its fruitful spring larder. 

The Killingworth Castle is your classic Cotswolds gastropub with rooms. The iconic limestone that clads its walls, pretty dappled grey slate roof, gardens, all within about 20 minutes reach of upmarket Chipping Norton. Except it’s a true foodie destination, considered the 17th best pub in the country, and boasts a swish new head chef, to boot. 

The Killingworth has just promoted Rob Mason, previously the sous chef here (and before that was at Michelin starred-Hampton Manor), to lead its kitchen. The legacy, of course, is hefty; beyond the recognition for the pub, it’s among the top 50 gastropubs in Britain, and has kept its three AA rosettes clutch for three years. And don’t be misled by the ‘best pub’ award – though the wet-led area is busy, and the pints are certainly flowing, once you step into the dedicated dining room, you’re entering fine-dining territory. 

The dining room of the Killingworth

The dining room itself is a minimalist affair – bookshelves and historic prints line the walls – which rapidly fills up after 7pm. It’s well-zoned from the drinking folk (though they’re not quite up to chanting yet, the separation helps the atmosphere), but you’ve got the same bar menu, and then some. A range of classic cocktails take seasonal twists (as citrus season hits, you should plump for one of its lemon meringue cocktails, which counts curd, limoncello and citron vodka among its makeup), and the team are straightforwardly able to guide you through wine pairings.

The menu follows a seasonal rotation, and everything is sourced as locally as possible, which is not a hard task in the Cotswolds where the pigs are fat and tasty. On this, the pork is particularly good – served with horse radish and black pudding and wearing a thick, fatty crackling. The snacks bear special mention, too; you start your meal with pork cheek bites and treacle breads, and by the time you reach sticky toffee pudding and a nightcap, you’re basically rolling to your room. 

A room at the Killingworth Castle

Luckily, the nightcap can be taken in the room, and the roll is not too far. There’s a little sherry at the bedside, which should be best enjoyed horizontally on the big, comfy beds. Each room is outfitted in a charmingly rustic style with roll-topped bathtubs set beneath skylights; you’ll open up the shutters in the morning to a picturesque view of manicured gardens. 

After a night out (or in) the restaurant, you should take time to pootle the nearby towns. The over 300-year-old Blenheim Palace is ten minutes’ drive away; prebook to mooch around its Baroque interiors or its sprawling gardens and parklands. It’s also in easy reach of Jeremy Clarkson’s farmshop, if that’s your dig. The locals that feature in the TV show are probably right to resent it a little; the roads are as bad as they come, while the carpark is full of hidden dips and troughs. But it’s well worth the visit for scooping up deli souvenirs to commemorate the trip. You’ll probably be still too full from The Killingworth’s dinner, though.

FINAL WORD

The one thing that awards and reviews can’t convey to you enough about the Killingworth Castle is that it clearly holds a genuine place in its local community and welcomes us into its congregation with no compunction. And the food is fabulous. What’s not to love? 

BOOK NOW

Rooms begin at £189 per night. thekillingworthcastle.com