A Chef Shares The Fruits (De Mer) Of April

Each month, a different chef, fishmonger, butcher or greengrocer tells C&TH what the best of the season is. The Sea, The Sea’s head chef Nick Marsden shares April’s best catches. 

Nick Marsden, Head Chef At The Sea, The Sea, On April’s Seasonal Fish

All chefs look forward to this time of year. We’re finally at the end of the ‘hunger gap’, and the first proper wave of seasonal produce starts to appear – and day-boat fish. 

The better weather means hook and line boats and shellfish creelers are able to get out fishing more, meaning access to a broader range of fish caught with low-impact methods. And at The Sea, The Sea, we’re really feeling the spring sun. The fish counter looks incredible with the light coming through; you suddenly notice the colours and textures much more, the sheen on the fish and the intricacies of the shells. 

The fish counter at The Sea, The Sea © Helen Cathcart

The Fish To Eat In April

Now is the best time for native lobsters. The water is still cold at this time of year, which gives the meat a beautiful sweetness and firm texture. At the same time, lobsters are actively feeding, so they have great density and condition. Crucially, it’s also before the molting season begins in summer, when the shells soften and the meat quality can dip.

Fishing for wild sea bass is prohibited in February and March to protect spawning and let stocks recover. By spring, they’re back on the menu, offering beautifully clean, delicate flesh and a true taste of British waters.

And scallops are here in consistent supply. Spring brings clearer water, which means better visibility for hand divers. The roe is also at its largest just before spawning, which is a real bonus for chefs who like to use the whole thing.  

Don’t Forget This One Ingredient: Cuttlefish

Cuttlefish tends to be overlooked and underused. It’s often around half the price of squid but has a meatier texture and a sweeter, more intense flavour. The cooking is a little less forgiving than squid, though, so be warned. It tends to lend itself to braises and long cooks, rather than hot and quick. Also note that the ink sack can get quite messy. Try not to pierce this when prepping the cuttlefish.

Flowering Currant. Photo via Wikimedia Commons

Pair This Seasonal Ingredient With Fish: Foraged Flowering Currant

Even if you’re based in London, where you’re surrounded by concrete, there’s a surprising amount growing wild if you know where to look. Chefs can be quite protective of their foraging spots –⁠ once you find a good patch, you tend to keep it fairly quiet so there’s still plenty there when you go back. At this time of year I am beginning to see things like wild garlic and nettle appearing in abundance, along with blossoms and my favourite –⁠ flowering currant. They all bring very fresh, green flavours that work particularly well with fish and seafood.

Because the season for these ingredients is quite short, it’s worth preserving them while they’re at their best. Turning them into vinegars, oils or pickles is a simple way to hold onto those flavours and use them later in the year.

Use This Offcut: Every Bit Of The Scallop

With scallops, we try to use every part. The meat is usually the star –⁠ and because the quality we get in at the restaurant is so good, we like to serve it raw, thinly sliced with a bit of acidity from fermented fruits such as apricots or, at the moment, Jonagold apple to lift the sweetness. We don’t let the roes go to waste –⁠ we salt them, marinate in shio koji, lightly smoke and dry them, then grate over dishes from spring vegetables to butters, or confit fish for a hit of umami. The skirts, once cleaned and dried, are great for infusing into stocks and sauces, adding depth. Even the shell has a purpose –⁠ it makes a perfect natural plate!

A spring meal that takes inspiration from Asako Yuzuki’s Butter

Speedy Spring Meal: Asako Yuzuki-Inspired Comfort Rice

I’m reading Butter by Asako Yuzuki at the moment. The iconic dish from the novel is a simple, indulgent comfort meal: steamed white Japanese rice topped with a slice of cold, high-quality butter and a drizzle of savoury soy sauce. Inspired by the book, I bought a Donabe, which is perfect for one-pot cooking. At home, I make trout and buttered rice, tossing in any vegetables that need using up as the rice cooks. Then I let the residual heat from the clay pot gently steam the trout on top.  

One More Tip: Watch The Heat

People tend to overcook fish at home. If you take it off the heat just before you think it’s ready and let it rest for a minute, it will finish cooking perfectly. A blushing piece of fish is a beautiful thing.