Mimosa At The Langham: A Slice Of French Riviera Chic In London

One of London’s most esteemed grand dames has welcomed a brand-new restaurant, Mimosa, sister to the Parisian hotspot at the Hotel de La Marine. 

Review: Mimosa at The Langham

After a ten-year stint, The Langham’s restaurant Roux at The Landau closed its doors a couple of years ago after falling victim to the pandemic. But this spring, the hotel is entering a new culinary era with the launch of Mimosa.

The sense of Parisian cool strikes as soon as you arrive, although London’s Mimosa has a different look to its predecessor – aside from its signature colour palette: warm terracotta hues paired with mahogany woodwork. Interiors come courtesy of interior designer Dorothée Delaye, who aimed to evoke feelings of the French Riviera. This certainly comes across: Mimosa captures the Mediterranean spirit with coral motifs, citrus-themed pink floral floor detailing, blue ceramic wall lights, and a large fig tree in the centre. I visited during the evening, when warm lighting and flickering candles gave the room a sun-dappled feel – and no doubt during the daytime, the huge arched windows allow plenty of natural light to flood in. 

Despite being a mid-week evening, the restaurant was buzzing, filled with stylish diners: couples cosied up in corners, groups of colleagues entertaining clients, and friends chattering away over champagne in the semi-private alcove booths.

We begin our evening with the restaurant’s signature cocktail, which is of course a mimosa (who says it’s just for brunch?). The Langham’s version is made with Mercier Brut Champagne, fresh orange juice and Cointreau, and it’s a lovely way to kick off the meal. If that’s not your bag, though, there are a selection of other suitably sunny cocktails with names like La Riviera and La Provençale. There’s an extensive wine list too, which draws mainly on French varieties, including a selection of rosé from Provence which would go down a treat on a summer’s day.

To begin, our waiter presents us with a very curious amuse bouche: it looks like an olive, or maybe even a sweet, but is actually a green cocoa butter shell encasing an anchovy filling, with a caramel-like consistency. It’s an odd experience for the tastebuds – but not bad.

The rest of the meal is more familiar territory. Chef Jean-Francois Piege and his team cook up a menu of French-inspired fare, with dishes designed for sharing. We begin with starters of asparagus drizzled in a creamy lemon Hollandaise sauce, some deliciously fresh, zingy tomato tartare served with crispy bread, and a big salad niçoise. Next up is octopus paired with spicy relish, and the highlight: roasted, corn-fed chicken, which is sliced tableside – alongside a little tutorial on the art of carving. Infused with flavours of thyme and lemon, this is roast chicken at its prime, best enjoyed with a side of curly fries and the grilled sweet gem lettuce, which tastes akin to hispi cabbage. Simple, but so effective.

Dessert is equally delightful, with a touch of theatre. A pineapple crème brûlée (called ‘l’ananas’ on the menu) is served inside a hollowed out pineapple in a bowl of ice, while the deconstructed tiramisu is made in front of you. Everything is beautifully presented on colourful, Riviera-inspired tableware (think fish motifs and yellow florals), which adds to the holiday feel – and will no doubt be a hit on Instagram.

THE FINAL WORD

Mimosa is as charming as it sounds. Being housed within The Langham, it’s no surprise the restaurant comes with high prices, but it would be a worthy spot for a special occasion. Often hotel eateries lack ambience, but this one has a great vibe – and a terrace is on the cards for this summer, which is sure to complete the Mediterranean theme (when the British weather plays ball, of course).

BOOK IT

langhamhotels.com