A Jewel Of A Retreat: Hotel das Amoreiras, Lisbon, Portugal – Review
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A Jewel Of A Retreat: Hotel das Amoreiras, Lisbon, Portugal – Review

Lauren Ho checks into this unique boutique retreat in Portugal's capital

Styled like a small grand hotel, the Hotel das Amoreiras is a gem of a boutique property filled with light and promises of a well-earned vacation in one of the Portuguese capital’s most picturesque spots: the leafy Praça das Amoreiras. Stay in and chill, or explore the nearby landmarks, including the pretty Church of Our Lady of Monserrate and the 18th-century Aguas Livres aqueduct. Either way, it’s the good life, writ large. 

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Hotel Review: Hotel das Amoreiras – Lisbon, Portugal

a sitting area in dappled light

To say that the Hotel das Amoreiras is a labour of love is to understate things for husband and wife team, Pedro Oliveira and Alicia Valero, who swapped globe-trotting corporate careers to fulfil their lifelong dream of running a boutique hotel. Their commitment to the cause shines through the 19-room property, which is furnished like the retreat of a sophisticated, well-heeled traveller – much like the owners, really.


If Hotel das Amoreiras feels more like a tastefully decorated private residence in the country than your quotidian city hotel, it’s because Pedro and Alicia cherry-picked every piece of furnishing – including some lovely bespoke pieces, and decor – to reflect not just their life abroad but also their personal tastes, especially the artwork referencing politics and cinema. Washed in dreamy hues of green, sand and beige, 17 rooms are spread out over two floors, with the third holding two grand suites beneath a mansard roof, with the kind of million dollar views of the nearby aqueduct, Amoreiras garden and reservoir that the other grander hotels can only dream of. 

a simple bedroom at Hotel das Amoreiras


Much like Lisbon itself, the Hotel das Amoreiras never feels the need to rush its guests about. Do as much or as little as you please. Linger in bed, cosseted by the gentle light filtered by the tall trees outside, before descending to the tiny sun-lit courtyard for breakfast. After a day wandering around town, be back in time for cocktails and snacks of Portuguese burrata and Pata Negra ham at the bar.

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the bar at Hotel das Amoreiras with a James Bond poster

Unusually for a hotel this size, an all-day menu is served either in the courtyard or in the bar, the latter under the watchful eye of a vintage poster of James Bond in the 1980s classic spy caper, Octopussy. Hats off to Pedro and Alicia for insisting that, where possible, the produce is homemade and sourced from small, local farmers and artisans – whether that’s the spelt sourdough, jams, Azores butter and granola served at breakfast, or the soft sheep cheese from Azeitão, crackers and dangerously moreish banana bread from Madeira on the all-day menu.    


Staying at the Hotel das Amoreiras feels like you’re visiting the home of dear friends who, incidentally, have great taste in art, culture and interior design. The care and attention to detail are evident the moment you step through the tree-shaded door into this jewel of a retreat. In other words, ignore the ‘official’ listing of Hotel das Amoreiras as a four-star property.

BOOK IT: Rooms from €250 per night. hoteldasamoreiras.com 

All images (c) Francisco Nogueira.