Lady Bamford’s Guide To Provence

Provence has always had a special draw for me: the drama and variety of the changing landscapes, the light, the scent of the lavender, its proximity to the sea, and the wonderful markets full of local produce.

The search for Léoube – our estate on the Cap Bénat peninsula beneath the hilltop Bormes-les-Mimosas – took Anthony and I about ten years. In reality, it feels like the estate chose us. We didn’t want to be close to Nice, Saint-Tropez or Cannes – they felt too busy. Much like Daylesford, we liked the countryside. So when we came across a secluded house, set back from a quiet bay along what I still consider one of the region’s most breathtaking stretches of coastline, I just knew. We had found our sleeping beauty.

The Léoube estate

We visit several times a year, and Léoube has become an important place for our family – a home away from home. It’s been the backdrop to many wonderful celebrations, from birthdays and parties to long weekends simply slowing down to the Provençal pace of life and enjoying each other’s company. I published a book last year, Château Léoube: Provence Living, and the dedication in the front was written to my grandchildren: ‘In memory of all the meals around our Provençal table.’ A full house is a happy house.

Having turned our family farm over to organic principles in the UK, we wanted to bring the same sustainable, natural approach to Léoube, working with the rhythm of the seasons to preserve and protect the land, and produce wines and olive oils in harmony with nature’s cycles. We owe a great deal to Romain Ott, who joined us from the next-door domaine to be our winemaker. We met his father, Jean-Jacques, when we arrived in 1997. His family has been producing exemplary Provençal wines for generations – we’d been drinking Ott wines long before we bought Léoube – and he helped guide us through the process of converting the vineyard and olive grove to become organic. Later, Romain joined us when he was 26.

Our recent B Corp certification is a proud milestone for us, reflecting the hard work and dedication of the entire Château Léoube team. It recognises the integrity of our organic practices and reinforces our longstanding commitment to sustainable viticulture: nurturing the soil, preserving artisan traditions, protecting our terroir and, above all, working in harmony with nature.

Peter Mayle wrote: ‘Provence unlocks the poetry within our souls and inspires us to see the world with new eyes.’ For me, that perfectly encapsulates the magic of the area. Countless writers and artists have been drawn to its mysticism and captivated by its beauty before me; it’s a place that nourishes and inspires those who embrace it.

Lady B’s Provençal Picks

The Swim

The ‘unspoilt, wild’ Plage du Pellegrin

I may be biased, but I truly believe no beach in Europe rivals the unspoilt, wild beauty of Plage du Pellegrin on the edge of the estate. As part of a protected area, its golden sands, crystal-clear waters and ancient pines have been beautifully preserved. Tucked inside a quiet cove, it’s blissfully calm and secluded for a swim before or after a walk along the coastal path.

The Pilgrimage

One of my favourite refuges on the estate is Chapelle Saint-Georges de Léoube, perched on one of the highest points along the region’s pilgrim way. There’s a sense of purity and simplicity to the tiny white chapel that I find peaceful and profoundly moving.

The Baguette

We’ll always visit the Sunday market at La Londe-les-Maures. Alongside bread and cheese, we’ll pick up lots of local, seasonal produce – especially berries in summer and chanterelle mushrooms in autumn.

The Beach Lunch

If you eat at Café Léoube on Plage du Pellegrin, go for the Léoube pizza, topped with fresh courgettes, aubergines and peppers from the garden, or the fish of the day, which is always caught fresh, grilled very simply and served whole.

The Hotel

We’ve been visiting Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc, Cap d’Antibes, for over 50 years and for me it remains the epitome of understated elegance. Everything is exquisite without ever feeling ostentatious and the setting is nothing short of breathtaking.

The Cocktail Spot

La Petite Maison in Nice

We love La Petite Maison in Nice. We’ll often sit outside and enjoy a cocktail or a glass of wine alongside its famous roasted bone marrow, served with Dijon mustard, pickles and fresh baguette. Or at sunset, the view from The Maybourne Riviera, perched on the hilltop above Monte Carlo, is hard to beat.

The Caffeine Hit

Always on the terrace at Le Crystal in Juan-les-Pins.