One&Only Kéa Island: Greece’s Breathtaking Hotel On An Isle You’ve Never Heard Of

There are two subjects that dominate the time I spend surfing the internet. One is dog breeds: though I yearn for the perfect pooch, I know that because of my peripatetic life it cannot be – but I can dream. The other is Greek islands… So many to choose from (227 inhabited ones to be precise). Which one shall I head to next?

Thanks to all that wasted time lost in Greek Island porn, I thought I knew more than most. I’ve visited nearly 40 of them over the years by sailing boat or ferry, but I’d never heard of Kéa.

Remarkably close to the capital yet off the beaten track, this teardrop shaped Cycladic island is a quiet gem, mostly visited by weekending Athenians. By ferry (one hour), it’s reached not from the main port of Piraeus but from much quieter Lavrio, a half hour drive from the airport. Guests of One&Only Kéa Island can also arrive by helicopter (15 minutes from the airport) or speedboat from Lavrio. I took the (weather dependent) latter option and the sleek black bomber of a boat turned my arrival at the lap of luxury into an adventure.

In ancient Greece, Kéa was an important trading post. A famous 6th century BC stone lion with an enigmatic smile, two temples and an amphitheatre (the ruins of which you can visit) are all that remain of an island state that once had its own currency. Now it’s quiet, inhabited by just 2,500 independently-minded people not much concerned with tourism.

In short, Kéa is the opposite of Mykonos and other hip Greek Islands, and an unusual choice for a luxury hotel, but one that fits the challenging locations the late Sol Kerzner’s One&Only brand likes to take on (think Gorilla’s Nest in Rwanda, Wolgan Valley in Australia and the latest Moonlight Basin in Montana). Can a barren hillside that drops steeply to the sea on a little-known island successfully host a deeply spoiling, very expensive resort? Yes, if you spend around £130 million constructing it. Yes, if you build an access road followed by individual pool villas (62 for hotel guests, others for private sale) using stones excavated from beneath them, with living roofs and sea views. Yes, if you construct an airy inside/outside three-story atrium at the very top of the hill with terraces, pools, bars and restaurants, from where the sunsets across the Aegean are simply unparalleled. 

Celebrated architect John Heah has combined light and space – the lines, curves and lofty proportions of ancient Greece and the landscape and materials of the Cyclades – to create an extraordinary resort that cascades from the crest of the hill to a tree-shaded beach in a calm, protected bay. His vision is successful, though there are two small drawbacks to the location: the northerly wind, for which Kéa is known, can be irritatingly persistent at times (though there are sheltered spots) and unless you are a glutton for punishment, buggies are needed to transport you up and down the steep gradients. But while they eliminate spontaneity (‘I’ll just nip to the bar/spa/pool/beach’), the engaging buggy drivers, who arrived in response to WhatsApp messages to transport me around the resort, became a highlight of my stay. 

For a place you’ve never heard of, there’s a remarkable amount to see and do, both within the resort and beyond. With four historic wrecks, including Britannia, sister to the Titanic, it’s a prime Greek diving site; or you can go sailing, hiking, electric biking or visiting. There’s the pretty multi-coloured inland town of Ioulida with its eye-opening archaeological museum, the Karthea Archaeological site, the Panagia Kastriani Monastery, the lighthouse at Vourkari, the simple tavernas, and the beaches and hidden coves famed for their crystal waters. Sleepy hamlets are interspersed with the second homes of affluent Athenians. The rugged, mountainous interior contains a rare oak forest, while agricultural terraces make the population largely self-sufficient and the local thyme-scented honey is renowned.

Quite what proportion of guests at One&Only Kéa Island tear themselves away from the resort, I’m not sure – especially as few will have a car, so will be reliant on extra-cost outings. That, to me, was a drawback; though the resort felt like a sympathetic introduction to Kéa, the island was not so easy to access.

But it’s hardly a penance to stay put, with one or two forays in a Landrover Defender during a stay. My days were filled with a mix of lying prone, swimming in the sea or the hotel’s two huge infinity pools, as well as my own villa pool (villas are calm havens of comfort and practicality) and eating and drinking delicious things. They were punctuated by a bespoke massage in the spa (the largest in Greece but slightly soulless), a brilliant tennis lesson (there are padel courts too) with French pro Amoury and stretching class with fitness instructor George, plus a revelatory wine tasting session with 23 year-old head sommelier Nico, who introduced me to some superb Greek wines.

The food, in both the main restaurant, Atria, with sensational views, and the Bond Beach Club under straw umbrellas, feet in the sand, was authentically Greek, with a few added twists, and very good. Lingering breakfasts were a particular delight, in an area created to feel like a Greek village square, with ‘shops’ for cold buffet, hot dishes and bakery. 

The naturalness and warmth of the staff stood out and was perhaps the element I will remember most about my very happy and healing stay on an island that I can now add to my ever-growing list of Greek idylls I’ve been fortunate enough to visit. Forget the dog I’ll never own… The islands of Greece are far more attainable for me, especially one like Kéa – so remote yet so easily reached.

BOOK IT

A villa for two with an infinity pool at One&Only Kéa Island starts from from £1,522 per night, including breakfast. oneandonlyresorts.com