Review: Borneta Hotel, Barcelona

Is there a responsible way to visit Barcelona? Rebecca Cox visits one of few new hotels in the city, Borneta, a Miiro hotel, to find out. 

Read the Country & Town House responsible tourism guide.

Barcelona And Overtourism

New hotel openings are a rarity in Barcelona, as the city has some of Europe’s toughest measures to counteract overtourism. The city will phase out all short-term rental licenses by 2028, meaning no homes can be legally rented to tourists after that date, and existing permits will not be renewed. Furthermore, laws prevent new hotels from opening in central and saturated zones, helping to limit tourist accommodation growth and preserve the city’s character and liveability for locals. Borneta, located in the old artisan quarter of El Born, was rebuilt from a complete renovation of an existing hotel, making it one of few new local hotspots in the city. Of course, travellers should still think carefully about their reasons for visiting, and be respectful of the impact that their presence in a city has, at a time where many locals have expressed feeling squeezed out. 

How Do You Visit Barcelona Responsibly?

So, how can we visit Barcelona without negatively affecting those that live there? I asked Marina Riess, General Manager at Borneta. She says: ‘Barcelona isn’t closed to visitors, it’s calling for a more mindful kind of tourism. In light of recent concerns about overtourism and new regulations, it’s understandable that some travellers might hesitate. But the message from the city isn’t don’t come, it’s come differently. Travel with curiosity, not just a checklist. Walk rather than rush. Choose local: stay in independent hotels, eat at family-run restaurants, and support neighbourhood artisans.

‘At Borneta, we guide our guests toward the Barcelona locals love, from early morning walks in Parc de la Ciutadella to the hidden ateliers of El Born and long, unhurried lunches that turn into rich conversations at locally run tapas bars. Travelling responsibly means being present, respectful, and aware that you’re a guest in someone’s home. The city doesn’t need fewer visitors; it needs visitors who are engaged, considerate, and connected.’

(c) James Mcdonald

STAY

Borneta is not entirely new, then, but upcycled, and beautifully so. The glow-up came courtesy of former Soho House design director James Thurstan, and the rooms and common areas have that chic, homely feel that you’d expect from a stylish, understated members’ club. There are 85 rooms and seven suites to choose from, from neat classics with enormous king beds and compact bathrooms to the sprawling Borneta Suite with a duplex terrace, al-fresco bathtub, complimentary minibar and exclusive rooftop access. Even those with the smallest budgets (lower category rooms don’t come with so much as a free bottle of water, and housekeeping is every other day) can take advantage of a slice of Barcelona rooftop life, via the neat little pool and 180 bar, offering, per its moniker, 180-degree views of the city from the golden Cascada Monumental to the Basilica de la Sagrada Familiar. The pool gets busy in the day, with only three sofa seats lining its edge, and people quickly start moving the dining chairs poolside for a slice of sun: so we found it most enjoyable to make this a morning stopover rather than a destination for an all-day lounge. In any case, it’s a 20-minute walk to the sprawling city beaches, where you can choose a spot to suit and enjoy the vibrant beach bars or join in a game of beach volleyball before hitting the cooling waves for a swim.  

Volta Restaurant (c) James Mcdonald

EAT & DRINK

The aforementioned rooftop pool and bar is one of the best spots in the city for a sundowner, with fab views of Barcelona and a great selection of expertly-mixed drinks. Whether taken up top on the roof or downstairs at the impressive square bar of Volta, I heartily recommend the ‘Salopette’, a fruity pineapple rum, cava and raspberry concoction with a smoky edge of Savoia Americano, or the similarly smoky ‘Brisa Ahumada’, a Volcan Tequila, chipotle liquor, grapefruit and smoky foam concoction that’s part paloma, part sour. 

Dinner at Volta comes courtesy of Italian executive chef Andrea de Benedictis, who has ensured that Borneta is already on the map (for diners, if not taxi drivers, who were consistently confused by this new-but-existing hotel and needed the address typing in every time). Service is warm and friendly, but not quick, so set aside an evening for a slow meal in stylish plant-filled surroundings and enjoy stand-out dishes including fried oysters and tagliolini with muscle cream and leeks. And if, like me, you judge a restaurant largely by the quality of its bread basket, Volta scored very highly indeed, particularly the focaccia dipped generously in the delicious local extra virgin olive oil. 

(c) Facundo Ruiz

If you want an expert view on what to order, Chef Andrea de Benedictis tells me: ‘At Volta, we let the seasons shape the menu, and right now, there’s one dish that captures summer perfectly. Our tomato salad with nectarines, shaved halloumi, toasted hazelnuts, and a honey-mustard vinaigrette is fresh, vibrant, and full of contrast: sweet, salty, crunchy, and creamy. Made with vibrant produce from our trusted supplier I un Rave, specialises in agroecological vegetables from Valls (Tarragona), it’s summer on a plate.’

Breakfast is buffet-style and à la carte with fresh fruit, pastries, meat and cheese, French toast and juices all available to graze on plus eggs any-style or avocado toast made to order, served up alongside great coffee. For dining outside the hotel, ask the friendly team at the front desk, who are keen to offer their personal recommendations, or even provide vouchers or discounts for local hot-spots to guests. 

DO

Across the street and visible from many of the hotel rooms is the sprawling Parc de la Ciutadella, a beautiful green space with wide lawns for lounging, shady paths for wandering, and a romantic fountain by Gaudí (because what is a Barcelona landmark without a Gaudí masterpiece?). 

El Born is the old artisan quarter of Barcelona, blending medieval charm with a touch of boho flair. Explore its narrow cobbled streets right behind the hotel, lined with vintage shops, cafes and art galleries, plus the Moco museum with works by Warhol, Banksy and more. The Picasso Museum is also a short walk from the hotel, plus the Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar, well-worth popping into to gaze with wonder up at its enormous towering arches, a masterpiece of Catalan gothic architecture. There are plenty of bars and tapas spots lining the streets, which come alive at night, though when visiting at the weekend it’s easy to see why the locals may grow a little tired of the crowds of partying tourists. We spot one flag hanging from an El Born balcony emblazoned with ‘stop noise, we want to rest.’ As did we: and the enormous soft beds and quiet rooms of Borneta made the perfect city retreat. 

SUSTAINABILITY & ACCESSIBILITY

Volta works with local farmers and artisans to source 0km ingredients, and Borneta is currently working toward Green Key certification. The hotel partners with local producers, hosts rotating exhibitions by neighbourhood artists, and regularly organises markets and cultural events that are open to the public. The refresh rooms, rooftop, restaurant and ground-floor toilets are all accessible, and there are three accessible guest rooms. 

THE FINAL WORD

Perfect for business stays or hip travellers looking for a Hoxton-esque affordable crash-pad from which to explore all that Barcelona has to offer. The staff are friendly and the rooms neat, homely and comfy, the breakfast is stellar and the location winning. Oh, and the luxe spa-like ‘refresh rooms’ downstairs where you can shower and change post-or-pre checkout are a really nice touch. 

BOOK

Room rates start at €300 / £260 per night, room only | To make a reservation visit miirohotels.com/hotelborneta