Tasting Tuscany: A Culinary Journey Through Harvest Season At Tenute Poggiazzi

Tenute Poggiazzi is a villa that celebrates the art of eating and living locally. Jessica Harris tucks in.

Exploring Tuscany In Autumn From Villa Tenute Poggiazzi

There’s something special about Tuscany in autumn. The light softens, the vineyards start to hum with activity, and the hills turn the colour of old gold. It’s a season of abundance: truffles emerge from the soil, grapes are gathered by hand, and olive trees begin their slow surrender to harvest. 

And at Tenute Poggiazzi, a fully-staffed 16th-century villa under the care of Tuscany Now & More, the changing season is something to be savoured rather than simply observed. Tucked between Florence and Siena, the interiors balance quiet modernity with local character. From bespoke furniture by Italian artisans to warm matte stone, every detail signals that you are in the hands of people who care about the place they find themselves in.

Set within the protected Montagnola Senese reserve, the estate feels like a private world of its own: elegant but understated, where the lavender hedges and olive trees are the only things dissecting the landscape. Days unfold in that distinctly Tuscan rhythm – a gentle procession of meals, vineyard walks and long, wine-soaked sunsets.

The olive oil harvest here is one of the most memorable experiences guests can take part in. Under the guidance of local producers, stroll through the groves as pickers move methodically from tree to tree, using age-old techniques that predate machinery. At the frantoio (olive mill), watch the pressing process in action – a surprisingly sensory affair. The olives are cold-pressed below 27°C to protect their vivid, grassy flavour and nutritional potency. Then comes the reward: the first taste of fettunta (rustic toast rubbed with garlic and drenched in still-warm oil, finished with a scatter of salt). The proof is in the pudding: when ingredients are this good, it’s clear that Tuscany’s magic lies in simplicity.

Autumn also marks the grape harvest, and Tenute Poggiazzi can arrange visits to nearby vineyards, including Dievole, a historic wine estate just over 30km north in the Chianti Classico region. Founded in 1090, Dievole is one of Tuscany’s oldest wineries, now spanning 600 hectares – 130 dedicated to vines, the rest to forest and agriculture. It’s fully organic, with an emphasis on native grapes like Sangiovese and the kind of quiet craftsmanship that defines the region.

We visited with Vitto, Dievole’s in-house sommelier, and he explained how the varying altitude (from 250 to 500 metres) creates distinct microclimates within the vine rows. Back in the cellar, the winemaking process revealed its own character: Chianti Classico fermented in raw concrete tulips for more than 30 days, an unusual but intentional choice that enhances texture, before the wine is moved to French oak barrels for up to two years. Their white (made with Trebbiano Toscano and aged in chestnut and oak) feels quietly Tuscan: subtle, layered, and full of personality.

Dievole’s sense of place runs deep. The estate’s name derives from ‘Dio vuole’ (‘God willing’), and its history includes a charming 11th-century contract in which a local winemaker rented one hectare of land in exchange for three chickens, two loaves of bread and six silver coins. Today, that hectare would fetch upwards of £150,000. But the principle remains the same: land, labour and patience.

For those seeking a different kind of bounty, truffle hunting begins in October. Guided by a local truffle hunter and their dogs, explore the nearby woodlands before returning to the villa for a truffle-laden lunch prepared by Chef Sabrina. Think handmade tagliolini, soft-scrambled eggs, and local pecorino, each scented with the morning’s find.

A day trip to Siena, about 25 minutes away, provides a cultural counterpoint to all of that eating and drinking. Our guide, Federica, has lived in the city for 23 years and still speaks about it with reverence. The 14th-century Duomo, with its black-and-white marble façade and sculptures by Michelangelo, is breathtaking. But Siena’s real beauty lies in its living traditions: the 17 contrade (districts) that shape the city’s identity, and the annual summer Palio horse race where victory brings pride rather than prize money. Lunch was hosted in the private home of Vittorio and Paula, organised through Tuscany Now & More’s concierge. Their home, L’Altana di Tiberio, overlooks terracotta rooftops and serves the kind of meal that sums up the region: pici pasta, roast pork, olive oil cake. Honest, hearty, and deeply local.

Evenings back at Poggiazzi slow to a luxurious pace. One night we dined among the vines, the air thick with the scent of rosemary and wine. Dishes arrived one by one: truffle-dusted pasta, roasted vegetables, a glass of Chianti poured just before the light disappeared. There’s no performance, no pretence, just that quiet Tuscan balance between generosity and restraint.

The Final Word

Tenute Poggiazzi isn’t about doing more; it’s about tuning in. To the land, to the season, and to the rituals that have shaped this region for centuries. Visiting in autumn, when Tuscany is at its most giving, and you’ll find yourself not only well-fed but quietly recalibrated.

BOOK IT

Rates at Tenute Poggiazzi start from £10,562 per week for up to 12 guests, and £19,572 per week for up to 20 guests. A one-week minimum stay applies. tuscanynowandmore.com