‘It’s Not About Completely Rewriting The Rule Book’: Daniel Fletcher On Royal Ascot’s New Look

As Royal Ascot’s first ever Creative Director, British designer Daniel Fletcher has plenty of opportunity to put his stamp on the event’s iconic sartorial codes – but, he tells C&TH, it’s never at the expense of tradition. ‘It’s not about completely rewriting the rule book,’ he says. ‘I still want to honour those traditions and work with the dress codes. And to create something that feels fresh, you don’t have to throw away 300 years of traditions – without them, Royal Ascot wouldn’t be what it is today.’ Instead, the new wave of fashion embraces the very best of what has become the jewel in the crown of Britain’s social season. ‘I hope that people look at [the Lookbook] and feel inspired, but also brave enough to push things outside the box a little bit while still sticking to those dress codes.’

Below, we chat to Daniel ahead of Royal Ascot 2025 about racecourse style, self-expression and how to not get overwhelmed by enclosure dress codes.

Daniel Fletcher On The Future Of Royal Ascot Fashion

Daniel Fletcher

Hi Daniel, thanks for joining us today. It’s been a pretty full-on 12 months for you – you have your own label, you were named MITHRIDATE’s new Creative Director and you’re leading Royal Ascot style for a second year. Do things ever slow down for you?

I actually find that having all of these different projects means that things are kept interesting all the time – there’s so much to explore and delve into – and that’s something that I really love. I think maybe if I was just doing one thing, then I would maybe feel a bit more bogged down. But because my schedule is always so hectic, it brings a lot of variety.

For example, doing Ascot for week is very fun. And that to me feels kind of like slowing down, because even though I’m technically working I’m having a great time. It’s just such a lovely week.

Speaking of, Royal Ascot is just around the corner. What excites you most about the races?

It has to be the fashion. Ascot is such a unique event, it’s such a good excuse to get dressed up – and people really embrace it. All these incredible hats and tail coats and top hats. There’s nothing else like it, really. That’s the thing that resonates with me the most.

The hats are definitely a huge part of the event – and Ascot Racecourse recently announced a partnership with The King’s Foundation to support up-and-coming British milliners. It’s very exciting!

It really is! We have such fantastic milliners in the UK – more so than any other country, largely because of events like Royal Ascot. And when bodies like The King’s Foundation support British milliners it’s so important, as it helps keep this tradition alive and let’s it evolve with new generations. It feels very special.

The Royal Ascot Millinery Collection At London Fashion Week AW25

Let’s talk about this year’s Lookbook. What was the goal for 2025?

It’s important to remember that the goal of the Lookbook is to show people what they can within those famous dress codes, and how they can express themselves. I want to honour the heritage and the tradition of the event, but also kind of make sure it feels new and modern. So there are things in there that people could have been wearing for hundreds of years, and then there are things that feel new and out there – and this thinking even came down to how we put those outfits together.

We were just trying to be a little unexpected in the way that we do things, whether that be trouser suits for women – which have really come back recently – or colours and prints that you maybe wouldn’t expect to see.

I hope that people look at it and feel inspired, but also brave enough to push things outside the box a little bit while still sticking to those dress codes.

Has this defined your approach to balancing tradition and modernity?

Yeah, for sure. It’s not about completely rewriting the rule book, because I still want to honour those traditions and work with the dress codes. And to create something that feels fresh, you don’t have to throw away 300 years of traditions – without them, Royal Ascot wouldn’t be what it is today. It’s about honouring it, but also looking to the future as well.

What are some of your highlights from this year’s Lookbook?

The one that comes to mind is a suit that I found in Oxfam. It’s a double-breasted, Princes of Wales men’s suit – and it’s absolutely gorgeous. It feels a little bit 80s, the trousers are cropped with a turn up, it has a strong shoulder and a narrow waist. It’s just such a brilliant suit, and it cost about £12 all together. It’s one of the sharpest looks this year, and it really shows what you can do – how you can do Royal Ascot without spending a fortune and without buying new. We were able to give this secondhand suit a new lease of life, and made it a Royal Ascot look. And that, to me, is a really important message.

I think sometimes people may feel a bit overwhelmed by the dress code and the thought of getting a whole new outfit, but there’s so many fantastic vintage, secondhand and rental places out there. They show that there are so many more options out there, and they support a much more sustainable approach to dressing for events as well.

Royal Ascot 2025 Lookbook

Besides Oxfam, where would you go to source secondhand options for Ascot?

There are loads of brilliant ones out of there, perhaps more for womenswear than menswear, but they’re still great to look at. We used HURR and Sign of the Times – we got a lot of pieces from them this year. They’ve got some really lovely pieces – lots of vintage dresses – that I absolutely love. And you wouldn’t even be able to find so many of them now, because they’re maybe 10 or 15 years old.

But this is just another benefit of shopping secondhand. Not only are you doing something more sustainable, you might find something even better than what you would find brand new. And you can only get it by shopping secondhand. You also eliminate the risk of someone else turning up in the same dress as well. I mean, there’s always a chance, but I think it’s much less likely that you can find the same vintage item as you would something in Zara.

Are there any fashion trends you think might be big this racing season?

Quite a few trends cropped up while we were putting together the Lookbook. A big one was polka dots, not just done in a classic way, but also by playfully mixing patterns – mainly spots and stripes – and even letting different spots clash together. That’s something I really love.

In terms of menswear, I think we’re going to see more pastels mixed together. Especially for morning dress. So maybe a baby pink shirt with a powder blue waistcoat, possibly a sage green tie. All of those pastels coming together in a fun way to update a morning suit look.

Royal Ascot 2025 Lookbook

What are your Ascot non-negotiables?

First of all, make sure you put some sun cream on. You’re going to be there all day, and you’ll need some kind of protection. I would also say to avoid stilettos, as it’s not going to be fun if you keep sinking into the grass. And finally, for those wearing a top hat: make sure that it’s positioned correctly. That’s something I’ve had a lot of feedback on with mine.

And which British brands do you reach for when it comes to Ascot styling?

I like to look at both high street and really high end. Suzannah London is a big one for Ascot; they know the dress code so well, too. They cater to the right length of dress, the right length of strap. You just can’t go wrong with one of their looks.

For morning suits, Huntsman on Savile Row are perfect if you’re really looking to splash out. But then someone like Hawes & Curtis or Oliver Brown are great for those rental and more entry-level priced suits.

What are your top styling tips for those who have never been to Royal Ascot?

Please don’t get overwhelmed by the dress code. Once you break them down, they’re very simple. And you can always just tailor it to the enclosure you know you’ll be in. (If in doubt, cover your shoulders and wear a longer dress.) Make sure you’re comfortable, too. It’s a full day and you want to be able to just enjoy it, so wear something that fits you and makes you feel great.

And be brave. It’s a day unlike any other, and people really go for it. I remember my first day at Royal Ascot turning up in a tailcoat and top hat. I felt so silly, but when I got there everyone else had them on – and by the end of the day I didn’t want to take them off. So just embrace it and have fun.

Royal Ascot 2025 Lookbook

Where do you see Ascot style going in the next 10 years?

One thing I don’t see changing is the dress code. It’s what makes Royal Ascot so special.

I think what we might see is some more gender fluid dressing in there. For example, we might see more women in suits. Gender specific attire has already been removed from the dress code, which opens it up to everyone, however they identify.

I’d like for people to still keep going for it and step into their bolder self. That’s my hope.

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