Discover The Crete Hotel Which Stands Out From The White-Washed Sea

With a chapel straight out of Mamma Mia and fresh sushi overlooking the sea, this Cretan resort offers something different to its white-washed Greek island competitors. Daisy Finer gives her verdict on St Nicolas Bay Hotel.

Review: St Nicolas Bay Hotel In Aghios Nikolaos, Crete

Stay

Amidst a global wave of vast white-washed minimalist resorts all reeling out the same thing, St Nicolas Bay, which has been going strong for over 40 years, stands apart. Beloved not just for its twinkling views of the sea but for its authentic character, this family-owned hotel is designed at-one across six acres of grounds. Simple but subtly beguiling, the crisp stone walls, blooming flowers, olive trees, shaded terraces and small but exquisite chapel (straight out of Mamma Mia) whisper of a traditional Greek village reincarnated. 137 rooms – including eight villas with private pools, their own little kitchens and butler service – tightly hug the pretty coastline. Each has been completely renovated in the last five years using local materials to create a modern Cretan idyll with breathtaking views.

Whichever category is for you, opt for a sea view. Villas aside, don’t expect anything too snazzy or bling. Instead, herein lies the draw: calm comfort, superb food, privacy and space. The soul of the place is generated by the people; staff are warm, funny, utterly genuine. At the helm is legendary general manager Alexandros (Alex) Glynos, whose energy and charm threads through the resort. One evening he might be found dancing with children at the traditional (and slightly crazy) Cretan night, the next quietly checking in on returning guests with heartfelt ease. All the while, the sea awaits you, majestic and magical in its beauty. 

Do

The resort’s two sleek main pools – one seawater and one chlorine – are cooling spots to lounge by and dive into a book, though neither compare with the star attraction: the Mediterranean itself. As the resort cascades down towards the sea, wooden decks and shaded rocky platforms hover just above the water with ladders and steps providing that rare luxury – a refreshing plunge straight into the crystalline Aegean. Washing away everyday stresses, Mirabello Bay invites you to melt into its calm, expansive embrace.

The private sandy beach is ideal for small children and there are plenty of tucked-away spots for quiet reflection. If you can tear yourself away, you can visit nearby Agios Nokolaos, an €8 taxi ride away, with artisan boutique shops and cafés. Or make a day trip to Spinalonga – Europe’s last leper colony which makes for a beautiful if haunting boat ride and side jaunt. Otherwise, for the ultimate recharge, retreat to the tranquil Poseidon Spa, a serene little oasis with an indoor heated pool, steam, sauna, and treatments using Elemis and Cinq Mondes products. Try the simplicity and ease of an hour’s sports massage to uplift body and spirit.  

Eat

A generous breakfast unfolds across shaded terraces at the Club House, combining an easy buffet with à la carte options such as avocado on toast or pancakes. The sun-kissed fruit with hearty Greek yoghurt and nut toppings is unbeatable; eggs any style provides a healthy protein boost. For lunch, fresh sushi overlooking the sea is a firm favourite, other choices range from beefy burgers to energy bowls.

Come night, there are numerous spots for a drink and evening elegance can be found at the sophisticated Minotaur which offers fusion fine dining with more superb sushi options. For something more low-key but deeply authentic, Kafenion feels close to the night stars and serves typically Greek wood-fired meze, including stuffed vine leaves and courgette flowers or fried calamari. Mains range from fish-of-the-day with wild greens to grilled lamb chops with baked potatoes. Everybody happy. (Especially on the evenings when a bouzouki band plays and guests join in to dance – impossible to watch without smiling.) It’s a clever place that can do themed without feeling too Disney. 

The Final Word

There’s a lot of laughter in the air at St Nicholas Bay. This happy, reliable retreat allows you to recuperate in a hazy dream of sea, sunshine and spa. The people, not the polish, make you feel truly at home. A rare find. 

Doubles from £295 per night, on half board. Find out more at stnicolasbay.gr